Dlister70

There's a wall, and there's a barrel next to the wall to obscure a target. However, you can see daylight between the barrel and the wall because they're not overlapping or screwed together. If you shoot the target through the gap between the barrel and the wall without hitting the wall or the barrel, is it a hit? If not, why? Someone cited 2.2.3.4 "Shots cannot be fired though the barrier except at designated shooting ports or other designated openings." because the crack was not a designated shooting port. I think that rule doesn't apply because you aren't shooting THROUGH a barrier, you are shooting between barriers. If you shot through the barrel or the wall, then that rule would apply. Obviously the course designer put the barrel there to make you have to run to a different spot to shoot the target, but they should have overlapped the barrel with the wall to eliminate the gap between them. I say, if there's a gap, you can shoot through it. I wasn't even at this match, so I have no dog in the fight. It's just a discussion that I'm involved in with some other ROs.

Well the "shotgun pattern" of the red dot appears to be the fault of my eyes and not the red dot. I had my wife look through, and she can only see one dot. If I squint, the pattern starts to come together into one dot. If I take my glasses off, the pattern gets worse. I made an eye appointment to check for astigmatism and hopefully correct so that I only see one dot. I took it to the range and sighted it in as best as I could, but the fuzzy dot pattern completely covers an 8 inch steel plate at 50 yards, so it was hard to be super accurate. I did get it ringing the 8 inch and 4 inch plate at least. Couldn't hit the 2 inch plate. I was hitting the 2 inch plate with the iron sights with the same gun, but I really had to focus and go slow. I was hoping that the red dot would help with speed, but it looks like I need to work on my eyes first. Not sure why they put a Leupold sight in a Romeo prize box, but hey, it was free to me, so I don't really care.

I googled for manufacturers beginning with the letter L since there was an L on the battery cover, and it looks pretty close to a Leupold DeltaPoint Pro minus the shroud that has the stamping on it. I guess I should have thought of that before posting.

This sight was won at the prize table at a match. The person who won it tried to install on their gun, and couldn't get it to fit, so they gave it to me. The red "dot" is massive and looks like a bunch of dots in a shotgun blast pattern. I tried to download the manual to figure out how to adjust the dot to be as small as possible, when I realized that this thing looks nothing like the one on the box. Is this even a Romeo sight? There are no manufacturer stamps on the sight that I can see. No Sig stamp, and no up/down arrows on the side to adjust the brightness. I now wonder if someone has stuck a different sight in a Romeo 3 box to make the prize table seem better? I don't know what I've got here, and I don't know anything about red dots, so I'm trying to find the manual to figure out how to adjust it. Does anyone recognize what it is? I googled the number stamped on the side 141474AG but that didn't get me anywhere.

I really just want a Kadet to shoot, but my only CZ is a CTS and they don't fit. I figured if I got a new CZ gun in .40 then I could maybe run it as a backup in limited class USPSA matches. I don't really want another 9mm. I'd like a flat trigger, and a trigger job (preferably single action only), but the hammer spring can't be so light that it won't ignite the .22 rounds. Any advice on which CZ to pick?

Thank you very much for taking the time to measure the mag! Mine were all higher than 9.8, mostly higher than 10mm. I adjusted them to 9.8mm in the front and back, and they ran great when practicing today! I appreciate the time you took to do the measurements, as I couldn't find anything officially stating them! That was very helpful!

I'm having some feed issues that may be mag related. When I try to check them with a caliper, it seems that they all have slightly different measurements. They've been dropped on concrete floors plenty of times, so I imagine they've all been slightly bent, and I want to return them to factory specs. However, I can't find what measurement they are supposed to be. What should the front and back of the mag measure on a stock TS mag when checked with calipers?

I always stand at arms length at the start, and try to stay close as I can during the run. I guess it just bothers me that there may be a situation that i can’t stop. But if I’m aware of a new shooter, I always review what I expect them to do at each command. That may have helped. I will certainly make it a point to tell new shooters to holster slowly. No point in racing at that step. Come out of the holster fast, sure, but put it back slow and safe.

I wasn’t there, but one of the local clubs had a guy with a negligent discharge while holstering with his finger on the trigger and he shot himself through the leg. This has me spooked now to RO a new shooter. I mean, you think you have control of the situation, but if the guy holsters quickly, you only have a split second to say stop if you see a finger in the guard. I always holster really slow with my finger completely off the gun so the RO can see it. But what if someone goes from taking a sight picture to holster really quick and you don’t have time to react? Or what if you yell stop and that startles them into jerking the trigger? I haven’t been ROing for very long, and it’s typically with guys that I’ve been shooting with for awhile who I know are safe, but this situation hits close to home and makes me want to pass off the timer if an unknown or new shooter comes up. What would you do in this situation? Yell stop? Say stop in a softer and less jarring way? Do you try to grab the guys arm to keep him pointed down range?

What I've seen done at the matches that do them would be to create a new name with a number on it. Your first run and the rest of the match is Bob Smith 1, your second run with just the classifier is Bob Smith 2. Both names have your USPSA number on them. But I don't know what happens with the data once it's sent to USPSA. I would assume that they take the best score, but maybe they just take the first score.

I had heard that the rule changed where you can't just re-shoot a classifier into the ground until you get a good score. Most clubs that I go to have stopped letting you re-shoot multiple times, but some still offer one re-shoot while others say that you can't do that anymore. I can't find the rule in the book regarding this, and am seeking clarification before I offer it at a match.

Bringing back this topic from the dead.. I saw that the NRA Visa card gives 5% cash back on "sporting goods" purchases. I wondered if online places count as sporting goods? Has anyone used this card for buying primers/powder online or making a firearm purchases from somewhere like Grabagun.com? It'd be pretty cool to get 5% cash back on my gun expenses instead of the 1% category that "other" usually falls into!

For each of the stages that I design, I run through in my head to try to see how I'd shoot it with a revolver and change things if it seems like the revolver shooter has to shoot a much harder course of fire than the open guy. I had one stage that you could see a target from two shooting positions, so technically, I was within the 8 shots per position.. but a revolver shooter would have almost *had* to shoot it from the far away position due to other activators and such that had to be shot from the closer position, or else they would have had a standing reload. So I changed things up to try to make it more fair to my 8 shot shooters. In the end, I'm probably over thinking the design, and should probably quit trying to be "fair" to every division, and just make fun stages. Besides, Jerry Miculek with a six shooter would still beat me with a PCC, so it's more about the shooter than it is about the gun.

Wow, this one kind of got off the rails! I wasn't necessarily looking to "handicap" the PCC shooter, I was just trying to think of a fair way to cost the same amount of time to be burned before the first shot. In my mind, the time taken for a good pistol shooter to turn and draw and fire should be matched up with a similar time consuming task for a good PCC shooter so that they are on equal footing to start the stage. Low ready and stock on belt both seemed quicker based on the matches that I've participated in, so I was looking for another PCC start option. But as has been pointed out several times, since PCC isn't really competing with the other divisions, there is no need to make the starts "equal".

Could you really do that? I didn't think that I could start them off at different distances from each other, but honestly, I'm not sure.

Good point. I don't think that the starting position is going to change having 6 PCC shooters in the top 10 overall at the end of the day! I was just trying to cost each shooter a comparable amount of time at the start, and after that it's up to their own trigger and foot speed.

I hadn't thought about starting them a few yards away! That would be a good equalizer in terms of time spent getting on first target. I have to second the Trident stage design website. That is where I designed all the stages for our first match, and it was a very intuitive way to get stages built. I did switch to Power Point for the next match, due to some limitations with Trident, but I think I got my money's worth out of the nominal fee that Trident charges for a year of service. I'd probably still be using it if there was a way to draw straight walls! I contacted the developer about putting in straight walls and he told me to just modify my course so that the walls were diagonal. I switched to Power Point instead because it wasn't a problem putting in the straight walls, and once I got used to it and got a template page built with all of the props that I wanted, it was almost as easy to drag and drop stuff to build the stage.

I haven't really seen anything else other than "low ready" or "stock on belt, muzzle pointed down range". Or if the pistol guys have hands on marks on a wall, then the PCC has their own lower mark to touch with the muzzle. Is there anything else? I've just started designing some stages, and my general rule of thumb has been that if pistol shooters start with hands at sides, then PCC shooters start is low ready. If pistol shooters start with hands in surrender position, then PCC shooters start with stock on belt (pistol shooters have to lower hands to get gun, PCC shooters have to raise stock to start shooting, so it seemed comparable in terms of time consumed). But what about if pistol shooters are facing up range, or up range + surrender? If they have to spin and draw, what should I have the PCC shooters do that is a comparable minor complication to the start? Are you allowed to specify that PCC start is "staring at your feet" or something like that? At least then, neither shooter is able to focus attention on the first target that they want to shoot, which is ultimately the objective that I'm going for on this stage. I guess I could just start everyone behind a wall that they have get around before the shooting starts, but I was trying to think of another way to do it. I just wondered if there was a another PCC start option that I haven't encountered yet. I'm not sure what else you could safely do, but I figured there might be something else that I hadn't seen.

Thanks for the coupon code! I do need to order some more blue bullets. Currently running the 200 grain. 1.135" has worked fine for me for me, I was just curious as I've always seen the CZ recipes going shorter than the 2011 guys, and several times seen that longer bullets wouldn't work. I was just surprised that it worked at all!

I typically load at 1.135", and I remember that when I initially got the gun that it seemed to not feed reliably for anything past 1.145". However, I recently shot a friend's .40 loads and he had them loaded to 1.170" for his 2011 and they ran fine in my CZ! I thought that was too long for a CZ, but I haven't really tried anything else since I first got the gun, and it was my first .40, so I haven't done extensive testing. Maybe I just screwed up on my initial tests when the 1.145" was failing, but this got me wondering just how long you could load for a TS. I've got Grams followers on the mags if that makes a difference.

I tightened it down just until I met resistance so that it wouldn't back out and fall out! The match went fine, no issues at all. Now I will tighten it more thoroughly and test function afterwards.

I plan to tighten until there is a little resistance. Just snug it. Right now, it seems like it's going to fall out if I shoot much more! I'm leaving straight from work tomorrow to the hotel for the match. Not sure I'll have time to test it out, but hopefully I can find somewhere to fire off a few to before the match to make sure I didn't cause any problems with tightening.

I was cleaning my CTS last night and when my q-tip went by the magazine catch spring screw, it made the screw turn. I touched the screw and it turned again. It's very loose! I assume this should be tightened down snug? I am referring to part #35 on the diagram in the instructions on page 12 posted here: I have a sectional match on Saturday and I'm not sure I'll be able to shoot it between now and then due to work. I shot it right before I cleaned it and it worked fine, but it just seems like that screw shouldn't be so loose that a q-tip will turn it! On the other hand, I don't want to tighten it and mess up at the sectional. So, fellow CZ owners.. is your magazine catch spring screw loose, or tight?

I am not sure of all the scoring rules and how the standings are figured out at the end of a match. When looking at the overall combined match results, I am three places ahead of my friend. When you click on just the limited results, he is two places ahead of me. On the overall, it says I have about 8 more match points than him. But on the limited screen, it says he has about 4 more match points than me. How does that work? I know you can end up getting extra points if you are first in your division on a particular stage, but neither of us took first on any of the stages. I was higher than him on 4 stages, and he was higher on 2. I imagine it doesn't happen often (or maybe I just don't notice it when it doesn't involve me!) but I'm curious as to what series of events would make this situation happen.

I put my email in for a notification list over a year ago, and just got a note that they are in stock. I've since purchased a CTS and won't be getting an orange, so I figured I'd give a heads up to someone else who may be in need of a TSO. https://www.hinterlandoutfitters.com/model-tactical-sport-orange-pistol-91260-single-orange-grips-sights-black-finish-p-51289.html I don't know anything about the company apart from the fact that they let me sign up for notification a year ago. But at least they don't have the price inflated too high. $1,599 seems reasonable to me.