MHitchcock

I think that a 8-10" is the happy medium. It gives you enough rail to use a good grip and gives you a more compact package. My tax stamp should be here by the end of the year, we'll see how it goes.

As long as you are still keeping up on pistol practice you will be fine. The only way I can see things fall off is if you don't shoot pistol ever, in which case you will just need some practice sessions to catch back up. Your friends logic would dictate that a 3-gunner could only be "good" at one of his 3 guns at any given time.

I'm curious. How do you double charge a case on a 650 without intentionally taking the case out and putting it back in station 2.

I've seen experienced reloaders have squibs. It all comes down to the person and loading practices. And to be honest, there are only 3 ways you could possibly end up with a squib on a 650: letting the powder hopper run dry, partially extending the ram and advancing the shell plate without completing the stroke and then ignoring it, or spraying a bunch of lanolin based lube into the case mouth (easily fixed by running dry with carbide dies or using 1 shot - which works perfectly for pistol). I started on a 650 and there is more than enough media out there to help you along. I have never had a single squib, double charge, etc. I think that someone of average intelligence can easily learn to load safely with few hiccups on a 650. To say that every reloader should start on a single stage because there are some people who can't deal with starting on a progressive is a gross generalization. In my experience the people that generally have recurring issues are people who have the same exact problems with other facets of their lives: rushing things, ignoring safe practices, etc. These people also tend to think they are infallible.

No. The case feeder is $225, the bullet feeder is ~$450ish. Again, I would not worry about conversions right away. Pick up stuff for your main caliber only. Get that going well. THEN purchase new tool heads/dies/case feeder plate/bullet feeder conversion for your other calibers. The difference between buying now and later is 7$ in shipping if you purchase from somewhere like grafs where shipping is a cheap fixed rate. ***also something I forgot to mention in my first post. Not something you need right away, but I would strongly suggest the whidden clamped tool head for the xl650. Not that expensive and made my OAL more consistent***

As far as sales, Dillon stuff doesn't really go on sale. Prices are fixed. You might get lucky and have the bullet feeder go on sale over the holidays. I would 100% get the case and bullet feeder. Watch a lot of videos and go slow to start. If you end up going with the 650 I would buy the shell plate bearing kit, spent primer fix (goes to a bottle of your choosing), live primer catch (the stock ski jump literally shoots primers across the room). All mods I wish I bought immediately. I would only get the stuff for your main caliber to start. Once you have a really good understanding of the machine operation and getting good ammo out THEN get conversions. I assume you are shooting 40 in limited so I don't have any die advice for you, but could definitely help you out with the 9mm set up when you come to that. My list for a 650 would be: xl650, case feeder, bullet feeder, strong mount, inline fab roller handle, (pick a lighting kit of your choice- I like my inline fab, others like the UFO lighting system), the "fixes"I mentioned before, 100 round case gauge (easier to spend $100 now then $20 now and $100 later), vibra-prime, digital scale, calipers, and a chrono (unless you have one you can borrow from a fellow shooter when you need to), vibratory tumbler (i think the frankford arsenal kit which includes a media separator is a decent starting kit), and a kinetic bullet puller. If you run into problems and can't find a fix with the search function, just throw a post out, someone will help. There are thousands of years of reloading experience on this forum. It also helps if you can find a local experienced reloader to help you get started.

I would look at the Vortex AMG UH-1. I'm loving mine. Its a better Eotech.

Yeah, I would focus on stock on belt starts. They are slower than low ready and they are also how 100% of the classifiers where you would do something like a bill drill start. Every stage at area 3 was stock on belt or table start for PCC. ***On a side note, .14-.15 splits are just fine. The difference between .11 and .15 over a course of fire is lost in one bad transition. I would work on transition drills as much as possible with PCC, the flat trigger speed is not where you are going to cut time*** Also, its been a few months since I ran a bill drill. I am curious to see if my time went down any

Yeah, it definitely takes a bit to get used to. Depending on your local stage designers, you may have some unique challenges. We always have a few stages set up around "lets make this part really hard for PCC" like weak side leans around close barriers, close ports with narrow shooting boxes, and shots that are impossible to make strong shouldered. It is a blast though

If I remember correctly I shot a 1.75 in the bill drill portion of the "roscoe rattle" classifier (9 yds all A's) from belt. But I wussed out on splits and was probably shooting .15 splits and took a bit longer on sight picture than needed. In practice I can get .11-.13 splits for sub 1.5's easily. I think the fastest I have done in practice so far was 1.35 at 7 yards - .75 "draw" from belt avg .12 splits (.11-.13 splits). ***Just checked the video - Roscoe Rattle "Bill drill portion" @ 9 yds with No shoots on the C zone boarders on either side was 1.70 all A's. The second portion - 6 shots on target, reload, 6 shots on another target @ 9 yards was 4.60 - semi botched reload and wussed out on splits again.***

If there are safety concerns it is a match director issue. At local matches we unbag/flag and reflag/bag on the course of fire. No issues with even new shooters breaking 180's on make ready or getting to the line. I think that PCC was a good addition to USPSA personally. I like being able to improve rifle skills on challenging courses. I never understood the aversion, you don't compete directly against PCC, and open>PCC at majors...so it really didn't shake things up. As far as taking longer to get ready, I don't see how an extra 10 seconds makes a difference, the average C/D production/revolver/single stack shooter is going to take MUCH longer on the course overall from make ready to range clear. So I don't see why people have such a fixation with that time period. And if a shooter needs RO assistance to remove the flag, they need to revise their make-ready process.

There is nothing stopping you from shooting 40/45. You just need longer mags if you want the same capacity.

*sigh* this conversation is pointless. First, major scoring in PCC is never going to happen. Second, why on earth do you need major scoring for PCC? Learn to double accurately and watch your optic.... Major in PCC would just make PCC like single stack. Everyone would need a major and minor PCC (as well as back-ups) to make sure you could choose the most effective based on the matches particular stages. This conversation reminds me of the PCC iron's only division idea. . .

Depending on your grip you may want to find a stock or stock type handguard (such as the Midwest industries) when/if you SBR it. The rail extends over the piston and with shorter handgaurds for 8" or under barrels I have found the smaller diameter handguards impossible to use due to the drop off.

It still is a hosefest. You just have to hose accurately. I don't have to slow down doubles on 25 yd targets compared to 5 yd, although I admit I wuss out most of the time and slow splits just a tad at 25.

Not even sure why this is a discussion...if you aren't shooting very high % A's with a PCC you need to practice, not wonder why you can't shoot major.

A lot of people using RHT holster. I am using the DAA production holster. Like it a lot so far.

I have heard that they will not run 100% and it is best to keep gen 2 mags to gen 2 guns and gen 1 to gen 1. The best part of the MPX is the insanely reliable magazines. You don't really need that many. I would just bite the bullet and get gen 2's.

It is a good skill to have, I however find it faster to lean/fall out. I try and end my stage with those shots if possible, however it is still faster to lean/fall out and shoot, then catch yourself w/ your weak side foot and push off to the next position. You don't see any of the top shooters switching shoulders, although I have run into one stage design locally that required it because there was no other way to get the target in your sights d/t a wall directly on your left and a small port.

Some people like the feel of a heavier gun. It doesn't mean that they shoot faster with it

Hmm...maybe I'll try a .09 and a .10. Thank you!

My google-fu may be lacking. I can't seem to find it posted anywhere. Looking to get something a little thinner than the stock front sight. Thanks! **and before anyone asks my calipers died on me and I haven't replaced them yet**

You can get both for the same $$$ i.e. gunbroker. My guess as to why major internet retailers have them listed for cheaper is that they haven't sold as many of the grey ones.

I am assuming that you should be able to just start with your stock on your left (weak side) hip ready to go, however I can't find anything specific in the rules. In the stage description for handgun it says something along the lines of "draw then transfer to weak hand." But the PCC only part of the instructions just says weak hand only. I had another shooter argue that PCC should start strong side hip with strong side typical start position and transfer to weak side.

Yeah. Regretting sending mine in on a trust at the moment >.<