MHitchcock

It's a bigger savings for sure. But, why would I spend an extra $250 on a powder that is harder to get and more expensive when TG has been working fine in my PCC and production gun?

It all adds up. I have been shooting PD 124 JHPs at .089 per bullet as I was shooting major (HS-6) and minor (TG) in 9mm. Now I am switching to 125 coated for <.06 per bullet because I am shooting minor only. With a guesstimated 30k rounds for next season - that is a $870 difference. Couldn't justify giving back 1/3 of it just to have a cleaner shooting powder. I can walk into a local box store and they will price match anything I can find TG for and I just have to pay local tax on it. With tax my last 8lb jug of TG is costing me .0096 per round. VV N320 is not available at any retailer near me and can be hard to find online at times. When I have ran numbers on shipping and hazmat even when picking up four 4-lb bottles at a time was something like .0179 per round. That is $250 I can spend on other things.

I wish I would have sent mine in as an individual. I can always add it to my trust later for $200 and spend an extra 6 months actually getting to shoot a SBR.

I would suggest getting the 1050 then a Mark 7 for it down the road. I have a friend who has a Mark 7'd xl650 and he says if he could do it over he would do the 1050. It is just a better press, and much better automated. If you were going to spend the $$ on the mark 7 for the xl650, getting a 1050 and then a Mark 7 X is not that much of a jump cost-wise (if you were planning on selling the xl650 to fund part of it). Plus they will probably run another 10% sale or something along those lines over black friday for the Mark 7. ***on a side note - I personally would skip the ammobot and go with a Mark 7 X. Comparing the 650 speed to the 1050 automated is not really a fair comparison of the auto drive companies themselves. The 650 is much slower because of the press design and limitations, mark 7 even states that on the 650 pro model, anything over 1400 RPH is for small pistol brass processing only, the base one has speeds of 900 and 1200 RPH only. The 1050 X will run as fast you will be able to reliably load 9mm/40 i.e. 2100 RPH***

I can't personally remember Dillon presses ever going on sale from anyone. The only way you are going to get a Dillon press "cheaper" than 10% off is to buy it in a package with an Autodrive. I think ammobot had a 1050, mr bullet feeder, and an Ammobot autodrive for $2999. Outside of random packages from distributors, there are no "deals" on Dillon that I have ever seen.

I know this happened back in September....but did the shooter end up with any burns/injury to his hands?

IMO if you are shooting 25k+ a year of mostly 9mm, I would strongly suggest getting a used 1050. You will thank yourself later. It is not much of a jump from a properly equipped new xl650. It will put less wear and tear on your arm (less force to operate), take less time to load ammo, primes on down stroke, can swage brass (yes there are crimped cases in mixed range brass), and when you inevitably decide you don't want to pull the handle anymore some time down the road, it is a much better platform to automate. In any event, a used Dillon in good condition is generally 80% of new. If you buy used the most you stand to lose is shipping costs if you decide to resell. If you are willing to hunt for a deal, you can do better than 80% of new. With either the 650 or 1050, start slow. Read and watch a lot before you set up your press. There is a lot of info on enos and YouTube. If you can find a local experienced reloader to show you the ropes, it will speed up the process. Just remember safety first and never take short cuts. Best of luck!

I think last year was the year that they were behind on orders so they didn't run a black Friday sale. It was a 15% off coupon in '14 & '15 from what I can find.

Out of curiosity, what caliber are you loading?

If you aren't out of bullets I'd wait and see if they do a black Friday sale again.

I would suggest looking at the vortex AMG UH-1 if you are looking at an Eotech.

I've just been running dry (no lube) on a 650 with carbide dies but switching to a 1050 and thinking about adding some 1-shot to my reloading routine. Most of the brass prep I see with one shot involves a ziplock bag or a few hundred cases in a cardboard box. Just doesn't seem efficient to me. Curious if anyone has a good process for prepping large amounts of brass with one-shot. Can I just use a big plastic bin, spray over the top, mix around, and repeat a few times? or will that allow too much 1 shot into the cases? Any input appreciated

If you find someone make sure you spend some time learning everything you can from them. If you just have them set it up, you will have no idea what to do when something needs adjustment or run into an issue. I would suggest you read as much as you can on set up here and watch some YouTube videos. There is more than enough information to help you get it set up on your own and you will be better equipped to solve problems when they happen. Best of luck!

It is 7/10th when I price online vs online but I'm assuming similar charges - I guess I don't know if you use slightly less n320 for same PF or not (haven't gotten that far). I can get a local store to price match for titegroup so I just pay tax instead of hazmat. So with that in mind the price difference is more like 8/10th.

First thing, I think that without the resources and tips listed here I would have gone insane because none of the youtube videos are very good and it definitely took quite a bit of tinkering. Very easy to get it to only flip a few every 100, harder to get it almost perfect. After playing with the primer drop insert, the clear cover at the top of the ramp, the rheostat, and putting the RF-100 on a gun mat as opposed to directly on a wood bench, I have it working reliably. I ran a couple thousand primers through (well 100 primers a lot of times) after finding a reliable setting and only had 1 primer flip. Definitely good enough for me not to have to watch it run. I've seen a lot of people getting frustrated with the RF-100's and I can tell you that 30 minutes to an hour of your time is well worth never having to manually fill primers or deal with a flip tray and a vibraprime ever again. It is stated in other older threads but... 1. Make sure the insert is loose - for me the screw almost touches the top edge of the primer tube when it is inserted 2. Adjust the clear cover (over the last portion of the primer ramp) toward the outside of the primer ramp until primers won't enter, then very slowly adjust inward until they will just start going through and tighten down snug. 3. Rheostat - for me using the lowest setting was the best, if I turn it up much it starts to flip primers. Most people use between lowest and slightly above the lowest setting 4. May depend on your primers, but for me having it on a gun mat (or a small mouse pad) helped smooth things out 5. the loud vibrating that comes and goes at times is the spring in the insert on the base (what you set the primer tube on) vibrating against its housing and is NOT the screw touching the top of the primer tube i.e. nothing you need to "fix".

Where are you guys finding vihtavouri n320 cheap enough to be within 1/2 a cent of titegroup? Everything I've looked at is more like 7/10ths of a cent per round.

Knowing Trijicon I doubt there will be a charge. I'll have to see if I can find anyone near me with a newer one. Something tells me the chances of it replacing my vortex uh-1 is pretty slim, but losing 6 oz on my rifle wouldn't be a bad thing.

Because they are manufacturing it. It is just like mil-spec AR-15 lowers. The same could be said for the vast majority of 2011 items that are built to a certain spec. It is a pattern. NFA just happens to be one of the most common in the AR-9 pattern. I don't think it is wrong for them to call it their lower, they are manufacturing it in house.

Hmmm....if that's true I might have to try one out.

Honestly, I would just get the Bergara. There is no point in spending more $$$ on a set up to start IMO. If you really get into precision you will end up with a custom build eventually. I started with a savage BA10 stealth in 6.5 creedmoor that I picked up for $825 new over last winter. I ended up with a really accurate rifle. I found out I don't really like precision that much and only lost $50 when I sold the rifle locally. I would get the Bergara and get your feet wet. Especially if you are going to start reloading 6.5 creedmoor. That's another very involved and costly process. When you feel the rifle is holding you back, then get a custom build. ***On a side note, the only issues I see with going with the Tikka CTR is that the you are most likely going to be replacing the stock. The actions are fantastic though.***

I haven't seen pics of the CK rifles (not shooting an AR9 platform anymore). An NFA lower wouldnt have been a bad thing. ***on a side note could be cut in house using NFA cnc file. In any event I'm sure anything CK puts out will run and perform well. I was very happy with my CK pistols**

Well technically its not a "NFA branded lower" but it may be made by them

Or just don't worry about a stained powder hopper

NFA makes lowers for like 10 companies. Nothing new

~$8 per 1k rounds vs titegroup for 9mm minor loads. Titegroup works fine for me *shrug* Assuming free brass - .03 primer, .06 coated 124 grain bullets VV N320 is roughly .018 per round, titegroup is just under .01 (rough math assuming ~4gr load) I'd rather save 9.25% on each completed round and stick with titegroup. But there are a lot of others that disagree.