nickbfishn

Thanks for the info!

Well 5 replies and all positive. Looks like I'm ordering some to sample. Probably go with the Blue because they offer a sampler pack that saves $1 on shipping. I'll post results afterwards. And thanks for the tip inspector1999, I'll try a couple first to get that sorted out before I set up to run them all. Happy Friday gents!

Wanted to try reloading coated bullets to save some coin. Anyone have experience with the new style coated bullets that don't have a lube ring? Also, I've found them online from Acme, blue bullets, SNS, and black bullets. Any suggestions here or other brands to try? My goal is to save coin but be able to shoot a clean and accurate round. Thanks!

All great replies. Thanks!

So I had a full trigger job done on my 1911 with EGW parts, svi trigger, a Koenig hammer, and a 17lb mainspring. Everything works well and my pull is about 3lbs. However, I noticed a slight bit of creep and I would like to remove it. I don't want my smith to do it because he did my trigger job for free and I don't want to wear out my welcome with him. Therefore, can anyone point me in the right direction for fixing creep in my brand new parts?So far the new trigger has about 250 dry fire and 75 +/- live fire rounds though it. Should I perhaps just shoot it and dry fire it a few hundred more times before I tinker or what? And, I'd also like to get it down to 2lbs to match that of my limited 2011 that has all of the same parts, so any advise here is great too. Thanks!

I'm very much a rookie, but I shoot a 1911 .45 for my single stack and limited 10. The reasons: I feel a connection to the past with it as it is the all american badass, and (as someone mentioned above) it hammers down steel poppers and plates. With my limited gun I run a 40 limcat loaded to to 165-168 PF and I often find myself shooting heavy poppers twice just because I'm not sure if they're falling. I have seen guys shooing 9mm have to shoot big poppers twice to make them fall. I'd feel uneasy about that. On the other hand, 9mm will be extremely inexpensive and available!

Anyone know of that advancedperformanceshooring will do silicon carbide 1911 grips? I have some on my 2011 and they are great and I might want some on my 1911 too.

Thanks for the input. I think I may order that book as well, unless someone has one to lend or sell?

Welcome. I'm new to reloading as well and I'll have to say (as someone else said earlier) get a chronograph! It will really enlighten you as it has me. Enjoy!

Thanks Sarge! I'm going to shoot an email to him now. Fingers crossed...

Good point seadog. However that was my exact thinking when I set up my limited 10 rig to exactly how my limited rig is set. I didn't want to relearn anything so I made them mirror images of each other, except different colors so I don't accidentally grab the wrong rig when heading out for the range. I think since I'll be shooting single stack much less often than the other 2 disciplines I'll have it as the one-off. But still a valid consideration. Thanks!

Thanks for sharing. This sounds like a great way for me to start practicing. Being so new to everything I wasn't sure which way to go with practice. At least now I'm starting to put together a plan to take with me when I hit the range. My plan is to spend 2-3 hours of range time and 2-3 hours of home time per week practicing.

Good point. I have pouches to far forward on my L10 belt. I'm thinking a new rig may be in order to avoid the headache of moving and swapping everything around.

I wonder if DAA Plans on making a holster or if anyone has devised a holster that will attach to the race master base so I can leave that on my belt and just swap holsters as needed.

Is there any way a Double Alpha Race Master holster can be used and or modified to be used in the SS division? I ask because I use my 1911 for limited 10 and would like to be able to use it for SS as well. Also, I'm very new to the scene so any advice is helpful. Thanks!

I have a problem with my new 1911 magnetic insert. My remington 1911 with a round trigger guard does not fit as securely in the magnetic block as it did with my old style block insert. Instead the gun wobbles and rocks quite a bit with the magnetic. Now I've tried 6 ways to Sunday to try and make it fail and the gun fall out, but it wont. However, I still feel uneasy with it being able to move so much. Anyone else have any issues using a new Race Master magnetic holster with a 1911? On the other hand, I have the same setup for my STI framed 2011 and that gun is held in solid as a rock and it doesn't move at all until I draw straight up.

I agree that the pin would be the best idea for sure, but not having a drill press I simply don't trust myself to make the little holes free handed. Therefore I did the shock buff as a bandaid solution until I can get my gunsmith to pin it the right way.

Algebra

Watch the best guys at your match and practice to do what they do.

Thanks guys. I just did mine with the buff treatment and it worked great. My grip safety was already disengaged amd it was just flopping around, so I wanted it to be stationary to mimic the setup on my limcat limited. I'll take it to the range in a couple days to ensure all is well, but thus far I think it's great. Thanks again

Using my RIA 22tcm I put a hurting on a steel plate at 200 yards. Sure it might be cheating using an 1850fps round, but it's still fun and wow's the crowd (my kids).

Old/bad eyes Spray and pray at 25+ yards. I regularly practice on a plate rack that is set up at 25yards out. What's interesting is when I come back to a 5-7 yard target right away I always hit high. I know why this is happening, but I haven't been able to overcome my first shot hitting neck height D.

Does anyone have pictures of the shim style pinning technique, using a sliver of shock buff?

Barebones what's your name?

Mjohn, you have no idea how annoying they is ? Every call center rep on the planet calls it mobil, except maybe those who work in our local call centers. Love me some dauphin island and flora bama ?