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I realize this is off topic of the original question. Got some data on my 13.7 Roscoe bbl today … I’m very happy with it. I’ll let @TonytheTiger decide if this meets his definition of “hammer”. Here’s the first 5 shot group after getting on paper at 50 yards - barrel hadn’t heated up yet - maybe 3 or 4 shots to get the scope dialed close. After the barrel heated up (still at 50 yards - 5 shots) Then confirming zero at 200 yards - this was the worst group And the best group at 200 yards … note, I stopped at 4 shots because my loads are range pick-up brass. I’m sure if i had kept shooting it would have grown. The real 10 shot groups were .75-1.5 MOA at 200 yards. But I’m very happy with anything that shoots minute-of-3gun and this barrel is definitely better than that. I may have to try some loads that use new brass and see what it will do with better ammo. Load is RMR 69g BTHP, 23.6g TAC

Good to hear yours is working out because I just replace a BCM 14.5 with the Rocso 13.7” purebred. I’ve only had it out once to run through a few loads but one of the loads was about .75” group. I’m looking forward to getting more data. I can say that it was more accurate on it’s first range day than my 14.5 BA Fluted Premium was on it’s first testing similar loads. It’s my 2nd Rosco. I heard about them from a firearms manufacturer and he spoke very highly of Rosco barrels. The first one was from their kennel bargain bin and at $120 it shoots as good as some $300 barrels I’ve used.

Use the vortex and don't worry about the weight unless you can't hold 12 pounds for 180 seconds. A heavy barrel can be annoying, but it's kind of like the "twang" in the bugger spring that some people complain about ... between the time the buzzer goes off and the time you unload and show clear, you won't notice the weight. you'll want the 1x on the vortex for the up close targets and zoom is nice for 300+ yards.

I've never used them but this place makes titanium brakes in the < 2oz range. https://tactical-advantage-armory.com/products.html#!/BC-Series-Titanium-Compensator-*Desert-Sand-Cerakote-shown/p/50997893/category=23811043 I especially like that they rate their brakes on recoil reduction, flash signature, and concussion. I'm sure it's subjective, but I wish all manufacturers would do that.

I use blue tape. Cut out a square of tape about 1x1. Put 1 or more on a wall 10-20 feet away. Another option is a 3x5 index card blue taped to a wall or if you have space you can use a blank sheet of paper or buy a few regular cardboard targets such as are used at your matches and tape them to a wall or a fence in your yard. then, practice different start positions: Low ready port arms stock on belt, muzzle parallel to ground etc For each start position, mount the gun. Start slow then work up to speed. pay attention to what you are seeing in the sights - watch your dot/reticle in relation to the target and you’ll be able to see where the dot is. Practice squeezing the trigger as soon as you see an acceptable sight picture. In my opinion, the visual aspect of this practice is just as important as the movement. You want to train your eyes to see through the sights to the target and then squeeze the trigger when the sights are good enough. For a big target at 5 yards you want to train to a point-and-shoot speed - you won’t even aim. For a 1x1 dot at 15 yards you’ll train to wait until the sights settle on the dot. For good youtube videos I like Frank Proctor’s channel. It’s not 3gun specific, but he teaches the principles very well. Another good resource is https://www.andersonshooting.com - no videos, but the podcast teaches why you need to learn to see the sights + target and he covers “speed mode” for practice and “match mode”. His views echo Brian Enos in this post: https://brianenos.com/thinking-shooting/. Basically your practice is to develop the habits, then the match is to let go of conscious thought and let the machine take over for best performance. I know it’s A lot of zen, but the few times it has happened to me in a match where i don’t think about shooting, I’m just sort of watching the sights from outside, i end up winning stages.

This might apply if it’s the upper receiver being tight. JP and BCM both need heat to get the barrel into the upper receiver.

since this thread came back up I should point out that KE recently released the RTS-1 trigger. Similar feel to the SLT, but nearly completely enclosed to stop popped primers or other garbage from blocking your hammer. I saw one at a local match and is now on my list. I like elftman also - And they stand behind their products. I asked a local arms manufacturer about them a few years ago - he switched to Elf triggers in the rifles he makes because they always took care of any problems very quickly. I have their 3-gun trigger. It's not my favorite, but I do like it. I found that when I adjusted the trigger weight lower, the over travel increased proportionally. I ended up setting it at a heavier weight which felt better due to almost no over travel.

In my lower it happened right from the start with a brand new triggertech adaptable (before the diamond was made). I had assumed it was the lower, but the comment about different bolts could have been the issue. Right now it’s in an LMT lower with Bushmaster predator upper and has been flawless (at close to heaviest pull weight). This upper doesn’t see 3gun use - it’s a varmint setup. Has ~150 rounds through it in this configuration.

no - we didn't swap out the bolts. if I get time to move triggers around again I may try a different bolt

I have a bunch of this that I got from a friend who is LEO mixed in with regular brass and nickel plated brass. At first I thought it was aluminum and not reloadable. @shinnedid the cases load up for you ok? Any problems with the reloads after you washed them in soap only?

I had the exact same problem with a triggertech adaptable trigger. Triggertech was extremely responsive - i sent the trigger to them and they tested it in several guns but couldn’t reproduce the behavior. I reproduced it in at least 2 lowers and ended up moving it to a lower where it didn’t exhibit the same problem. I also adjusted it to nearly the heaviest trigger weight. I couldn’t figure out why it exhibits the behavior in some lowers but works flawlessly in others. It’s currently in a very stock rifle-length buffer rifle and has been solid. Triggertech gave me all possible options - from replace to refund. I appreciated their customer service so much I kept the trigger and still use it. I’d suggest check directly with them - they were very responsive for me.

there's this: https://youngmanufacturing.net/staking-the-gas-key-on-the-ar-15-and-m-16-carrier/ My personal score on staking vs following Young Mfg advice: Staked keys: 1 came loose (FailZero), 1 broken screw (BCM) - both failures in the first ~2000 rounds YM method: 0 have come loose, 0 broken (including the FailZero which is now using this method and solid ever since).

That’s good info - thanks! I did notice in a night match that my titegroup loads generated a LOT more smoke. Will try out the Bayou’s I have with different powder and see how it works.

I’m saying your post about the USPSA rule is correct - the rules do not require that you put the weapon on safe for movement or mag changes, only that you “should” do so. I jumped in on this thread when you posted that 99.9% of shooters don’t put the weapon on safe during movement. The original post asked specifically about rifles, so I’m speaking specifically about rifles when I say that, in my observations, it’s a minority of shooters who do not put their long gun on safe during movement and reloads. However, as I re-read all the posts I think you were saying that 99% of people don’t put their 1911’s on safe during movement. If that’s the case then I think you are correct on that also.

following up from the match last week. On my squad 100% of the shooters I RO'ed moved the selector to "safe" during movement. It was clear to me either visually or I heard an audible click. On the 2 stages with reloads each of the people I watched moved the selector to "safe" during the reload. We had one first-time competitor, but he was obviously well trained and he operated the selector during movement also. note: @Sarge's post is correct about the rule being different than reality. the USPSA rules allow a competitor to move without the selector on "safe" as long as the finger is outside the trigger guard (per the rule). From what I've seen, the less experienced shooters learn finger control first, then after they notice that the higher placed shooters are operating the selector, they ask about it and start doing it also. In my opinion the doctrine of movement and mag changes with the selector on "fire" should go the way of the tea cup grip ... it's ok for TV, but not for reality. Here's a link to one of the shooters (@make_ready): https://www.instagram.com/p/CJmNUETrHJ8/?igshid=pg3jxdjwv8ki. Swipe right to see- on the 3rd position he has to adjust further left and you can clearly see him moving the selector before he moves. He was 2nd overall on that stage: https://practiscore.com/results/new/125598?q_result=1.

That’s not my experience. Of the people I RO i notice a large majority click the selector to “safe” every time the rifle is not on target (including movement on a stage and mag changes) and then move the selector to “fire” only when they are on target. I’d estimate 80% percent. We have a rifle match Saturday ... I’ll try to get some on video and try to keep track of the percentage who do it.

I shot similar (Bayou) coated bullets in a PCC with Titegroup. Not only is @longbeardcorrect that they will make a mess out of the comp, but they will also require a lot more cleaning in your barrel (which I learned 2 stages into a match when the lead fouled the last inch or so of the barrel and I started shooting knuckle balls through my smooth bore).

Here's Daniel Horner explaining the logic behind rifle balance:

I have one of those ... wish I had bought several before they stopped making it. it's a really good balance of brake and flash hiding. At some point I'm planning to add on an Indian creek design blast forward device to my proctor and see how it does. The ICD blast forward does slightly reduce the effectiveness of the brakes that I have it on, but I regularly have people ask me if it's a suppressor because it makes the rifle so much quieter (to the people behind me). RO's tend to appreciate it very much. if you like the proctor device, there is a similar one made by venom-defense. It's smaller and the brake expansion chambers are different, but concept is the same and you can get it with a linear compensator. I bought one but the threads on the linear comp aren't true so I have a few messages in to venom to get the mount replaced.

I used to think about weight until I heard someone (who shoots much faster than me) say his rifle is 10 pounds ... but it doesn't matter because you only use it for a few seconds at a time. For a 3gun rifle - balance is more critical than overall weight.

yes ... but for a duty rifle or shooting inside the VG6 cage device is an absolute necessity if you are going to use the Epsilon.

I agree with @StealthyBlagga's recommendation about starting with fewer guns being better. becoming and staying proficient in 3 guns is a LOT more time than 1 or 2. Also - equipment and ammo for 3 guns is, well, triple+ the price. And I found the shotgun equipment to be the most expensive and least used (example quad load shell holders). When you go with 3 guns you'll also need a BIG cart to carry all 3 guns and it's a LOT more weight with 6 different types of ammo (9mm, .233, bird shot, turkey loads, slugs, 00 buck). Unless he's a strapping 12 year old, you'll need a very strong back. I went to my first 3 gun match not owning a shotgun and never even shot a semi auto. I went out spent a money on a low-end shotgun, shell caddies, shells, dummy rounds. Then I spent a TON of time practicing reloads and dual loads and quad loads. Then I ended up replacing a lot of equipment. It was frustrating and I lost a lot of time I should have been spending shooting/practicing the pistol. I asked one of the local gurus how to get good at all 3 guns and he said it's really impossible. He recommended I focus most of my practice on pistol first, then get better at rifle ... and just try to be good enough at the shotgun to be in the middle of the pack. I took his advice and started having much more fun and much better results. If I were to start now I'd be looking for pistol only, rifle only, and 2 gun matches. Then after getting comfortable with the 2 guns (and focusing more money on the right equipment for those 2), I'd expand into 3 gun. I have several friends who have asked for advice and, because we have local monthly matches with both 2gun/3gun divisions that's my recommendation to them. I definitely agree with the concept of using the equipment you already have for a long time before you start upgrading. Everyone will show you their equipment at a match and you can buy the right thing once instead of needing to sell things you end up not liking.

I have the Arisaka also and mounted at 45 initially to avoid the obstruction. after 1 match I changed to 35. so I lose part of the field of view but the 35 just feels better and I don't really notice the loss on a stage with both eyes open. I see that obstruction a lot during dry fire ... but it hasn't been a problem after the buzzer goes off

I had a similar problem in a maxima. It really liked 91 octane and was marginal with 87. My daughter took it to college and tried using 85 to save money. It misfired constantly with 85. She switched out the entire car (after being rear-ended) to a 4-cylinder and it runs perfectly with 85 octane. She complains occasionally about missing that “giddy up” she used to have. @kurtmseriously this is the best analogy I’ve seen about problems with cheap steel case ammo. I will be borrowing your reference many times in the future.

I shoot a Calvin on my main 3gun rifle and have the KE SLT-1 on my PCC. I love both triggers. I recently acquired a new lower and ordered an SLT-2 for that one. It has a great feel to the trigger and i like that it can go on safe regardless of the hammer position. Also like that it works normally if junk gets into the trigger well. the Calvin is light. It wasn’t intended as a defensive trigger. I love it, but it’s designed for a flat range. I don’t know if it works well in PCC. I think you’d be better served by one of the timney 3-4 lb triggers for a defensive gun. (Having said that, the first gun I’d pick up in a riot is my 3gun with the Calvin. And the SLT-1 would be used by other family members) I’ve had 100% success with Timney Calvin, KE SLT-1, Hyperfire Eclipse. I’ve had less that 100% with adjustable triggers from 2 other makers. Note: i don’t like 2 stage triggers on rifles