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Strelok got banned by USG because the app lives in Russia. Chairgun Elite is a similar app ... it's so similar i wouldn't be surprised if it's the same author.

But wouldn't a big loop make it easier to spin cock the rifle just like Chuck Connors did on TV?? (btw, spin cocking a loaded rifle is for TV ... not for real bullets)

you probably already picked up a trigger ... but the KE SLT triggers are on sale for $150. At that price they are well worth trying out. Triggers (kearms.com)

I have magpuls ... it was bad 1 time when i needed to stow the bipod in the middle of a stage. Other than that it's been fine. For slings I use Frank Proctor slings: Proctor Sling S/R (Shotgun/Rifle) - FrankProctorShooting I liked the minimalist approach of using 550 as attachment points. However, after a few years I adjusted to a slightly different setup. I have a 550 cord loop that i leave on the front and stock of the rifle. I added magpul paraclips to both ends of the proctor sling. So I have the simple/quiet 550 attachment points and quick detach.

I've had great luck with a number of different barrels. I had the BCM 14.5 ELW and shot it until the chrome started to pit. I switched over to a 14.5 Rosco barrel at that time and it has outlasted the BCM. My current competition barrel: Purebred - 14.5" .223 Wylde Barrel | Rosco Manufacturing This one is a great option for 16" Purebred - 16" .223 Wylde Barrel | Rosco Manufacturing. take a look at the review from SageDynamics youtube channel. Another good option: Bloodline 16" M4 5.56 NATO | Rosco Manufacturing all 3 of those are great for me and don't break the bank. And I just noticed they are selling for $154 this week which makes me want to pick up another one Ballistic Advantage | Premium AR Barrels and AR Replacement Parts - all work well for multigun. I've seen better accuracy from their more expensive barrels, but the "modern" line will work for multigun also Several people I know rave about: 3-Gun Uppers (whiteoakarmament.com). When I've zeroed rifles with them I have never noticed that it was twice as accurate for twice the price, but it does seem to be more accurate than mine is across lots of different loads (no actual data - just my perception) Note: Rosco and Ballistic Advantage white label barrels for other companies. So if you buy one from another company, it's still possible that BA/Rosco made it.

One idea for a very smooth Handguard is the Aero Atlas S-1: https://www.aeroprecisionusa.com/ar15-atlas-s-one-m-lok-handguard It's very smooth - it will feel very different than the quad pic rail you have. Much easier to hold on to. Kind of like doing pull-ups on a narrow bar is easier than a huge fat bar. You'll definitely want a low profile gas block. Make sure you measure the diameter of the barrel (called journal) and find one that will fit your barrel. This measurement is extremely important. And, if you are doing the work yourself, it will probably be less frustrating to pay the money for a new gas tube (measure the gas length of your barrel and get the right length tube). While it is possible to re-use your gas tube, sometimes they can be difficult to remove from the gas block and it's a low cost to avoid the frustration. After you get some experience you'll be able to pop out that gas tube roll pin. For tools, I think that gas block you have is pinned to the barrel so you'll want a good rifle punch set to remove it. And, those pins may be tapered so punch them out left-to-right (viewed with the rifle shouldered). If it is pinned, there will be 2 slots in the bottom of your barrel for the pins - your new low profile gas block will not use those slots, it will likely have set screws instead. Whichever hand guard you buy, you'll probably be able to pick up the gas block and gas tube from the same manufacturer. Also, the new hand guard will come with a new barrel nut. You'll have to remove your current barrel nut and use the one that comes with the new handguard. If you have access to a torque wrench, that it ideal. It's also VERY convenient to have an upper receiver vice or a similar tool that will hold the barrel or upper receiver in a vice. Magpul makes a simple one, and there are several called "reaction rods" that are very nice. Pay attention to torque specs and use anti-seize or correct grease on the barrel nut threads. I think the book advice is to torque then loosen then torque the barrel nut 3 times to make sure it stays tight. Also - many gunsmiths will replace hand guards for very reasonable prices and watching them once or twice is a very good way to learn. While watching a smith pay attention to how they align the gas block to the gas port. Note that everything above is based on mistakes I made ... I did the same thing without the proper tools and vices and it takes longer but can be done. Last time I needed a handguard replaced I went to Accuracy Speaks and Sean did it while I waited in about 10 minutes.

50/200 - I use the same zero as my scope. (it's actually closer to 45/200 - I get a decent zero at 50 yards, then use a 200 yard target to confirm zero and do the final adjustment.) I tried 25 yards when I first used an offset dot, then ended up with 2 problems on the clock: 1) I needed to do a proper "hold over" for a small target at about 7 yards. During the walk through and on the clock my brain did a normal hold about 3" over the target. So the round ended up going high and hitting a no-shoot twice. 2) Had a situation where I needed to use the red dot for a target at 100 yards ... I held a little under just like I would have for my scope and missed. So I switched the zero on my offset to be the same as my scope. It's just better for me to not have to remember different holds for different sights. Note that every "fast" shooter I spoke to had a 20 or 25 yard zero for their offset dot ... but it just doesn't work for me.

At 2019 and 2020 SMM3G I asked quite a few people who were shooting 2-Gun about why they switched from 3-Gun to 2-Gun. By far the most common answer was that it was easier to travel. That was especially true of people who flew to the match. Although there were a few people who stated that they didn't like shotgun or liked rifle more than shotgun, it was clearly about traveling lighter for most competitors.

Here's a 3d printed chamber flag I put together - you are welcome to copy and modify it: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6P0WnVveerp-chamberflag/edit (you'll need a tinkercad account)

I like the scientific tests mostly as a way to help direct that small fortune ... I've got a box full of disappointing brakes also :-). For me the comparison point that is missing is accuracy. My favorite competition brake right now is actually not on the list - it's the EC Tuner brake. It's in my top 5% for recoil mitigation (even though it's a 6.5mm) and gives me the capability to tune the barrel. It's overkill for 3gun but adds just a little bit of confidence to speed up target transitions. And it's not obnoxiously loud.

This is the one I tried and like it. used it in the last match and it was solid: https://www.hiperfire.com/product/hipercomp-556c/ this is the video where they refer to their previous brakes and how they tested. Granted that it's marketing ... but it's interesting to see the other comps (towards the end of the video). Even if you discount the obvious bias, I think it's interesting to look at the results of each brake on the chart to see the relative recoil mitigation. Their test was very similar to the TTAG Muzzle device shootout done a few years back (https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/556-muzzle-device-shootout/)

hipercomp 223. I watched their YouTube and figured I'd give it a try. I'm glad I did.

My 14yo son likes the Calvin and I can't talk him into any other trigger. I'd call him a beginner - he's shot less than 1000 live rounds in his entire life and 2 matches on the clock. The last ~300 rounds were all on a Calvin. it's never doubled on him. Granted that 300 rounds isn't a large sample size ... but I give this as an example of a Calvin working perfectly for a beginner.

The Timney comes with a knurled knob that clamps onto the trigger and interfaces on the horizontal bar below the trigger housing. It is removable as shown in this diagram. The JP unit is built into the trigger itself and is not removable. It wouldn't be easy to connect. To do it I think you'd be doing the cutting, welding, and red-neck engineering. If you really want this I'd suggest you may have better luck modifying the knurled trigger shoe that comes with the Calvin and adding on the roller surface to that one. Still not an easy modification but with the correct tools you may be able to design something.

All of the triggers that @TonytheTiger said are on my top list. But I add KE Arms SLT-2 up there next to Timney Calvin. IMHO single stage triggers win when it comes to multigun.

I had the exact same sinking feeling in my gut after i bought a 930 and then read all the horror stories on this forum. But I kept it clean (full cleaning every 3-4 matches) and shot high quality Walmart red box ammo and it’s been more consistent than some of the benellis and other *good* guns people use. It’s definitely more reliable than the magazine fed open shotguns . I had a few problems over the years but always could clear a round or a stovepipe and keep shooting. I did add all the OR3Gun components to make it more like a 940 and i keep it lubed in all the moving places. I shoot in AZ … so not a lot of humidity - just dust/dirt. I shoot mostly 2 gun now so I haven’t run it hard for a while. But don’t count it out yet. Run it. Keep it clean. If it has problems then make sure to tell @TonytheTiger cause I’m pretty sure he keeps a spreadsheet documenting dead JMPros LOL.

When using a top mounted sight and holding in a canted position as they did in the article, the way i learned it was: > if it’s a target that requires it (e.g. far away) hold in the direction of the magwell. In my experience, I have to start holding in the direction of the magwell at about 70 yards. Note that for an offset sight mounted and zeroed at 45º you do not need to change your hold because that sight *should* be zeroed properly at its vertical position.

it tightened up my 300 yard groups from about 6” down to about 4”. I’m sure it would be better with more magnification … these groups are 300 yards w a 6x scope. (69g RMR over TAC). I tuned my hoser load (55g hornady SP) from about 3” at 100 yards down to about 1.5”. With the better accuracy I was able to put consistent hits at 565 yards with that ammo which goes subsonic at about 525 yards. the biggest advantage has been in mid range rifle matches. I find myself trusting the ammo much more and going faster because I’m calling the shots off the sights and transitioning faster. 2nd best advantage is I’m using a load I developed for a different rifle and it shoots better in this barrel after tuning. here is a stage in my 3rd match with that brake https://www.instagram.com/tv/CXSopYpL9R3/?utm_medium=copy_link this video shows the brake better with offhand shots https://www.instagram.com/tv/CY5JPF0rFX5/?utm_medium=copy_link

I currently have a 6.5 brake (cortina tuner brake) on a 5.56 barrel. It’s slightly less efficient, but I wanted to try out a tuner. After shooting in in 5 matches I’m planning to keep it on - I’ve shot more efficient brakes, but this one is ~80%-90% as good even though it’s a 6.5.

I know of a guy with a lot more experience than me who had an answer to this question on video at the last SMM3G match. So I looked around through the match videos and put together a little video answer for you (at 0:33 seconds). I've found Jerry's solution to be very useful. It takes more prep time, but when you are on the clock you don't have to think about different holds.

yes - chrome lined hammer forged. I think BCM is "double chrome lined" or something like that. I'm no gunsmith but I bought a cheap bore scope because I couldn't believe it had shot out at 6000 rounds. attaching a view of the freebore and start of rifling showing the fire cracking. I think the darker metal is the chrome chipping out. The symptoms I had were frequent shots going way off target. I'd have 3 hits in a row at 300 yards then 5 shots going 3+ feet around the target. Also, people kept telling me they could see a vapor trail on a lot of my rounds. Eventually I figured out that the "vapor trail" was the copper jacket spinning off of the bullet (hornady 2266) in a long puff. My hypothesis is that the fire cracking was slicing the jacket enough that it would come apart. Same loads in other barrels shot fine and FMJ loads in this barrel didn't have a "vapor trail" ... but they didn't group well. Interestingly, it shot fine if I used all copper bullets like the Barnes LRX. I could still get consistent groups at 535 yards on a steel plate with LRX, but as soon as I switched to affordable ammo accuracy was unacceptable. to be fair, I ran this bbl pretty hard. I got it right after I started shooting 3 gun so lots of rapid fire. I was learning to reload at the same time. My 55g load is pretty hot and it had a suppressor on it occasionally and I ran test groups that showed high pressure signs when I had no idea why the ejector was imprinting on the brass. So I'm actually pretty glad to get the education without hurting myself due to my own poor education.. It was really accurate ... until it wasn't. If I had funds to shoot all copper bullets I could still use it ... So overall I'm happy with it ... but like you I wish it had lived a longer life.

My Rosco 13.7 replaced a BCM 14.5 BFH that made it about 6000 rounds. I had hoped for more from a hammer forged bbl … but i guess that’s what i get for shooting hot loads and lots of rapid fire in matches.

you are the manufacturer of the SBR, not Aero. So you have to follow the regulations. A good detail is section 7.4 of the NFA handbook:

That’s too bad - I’ve had great experience with BA both in quality of the products and follow up after.

Yes - 13.7 purebred. This one: https://www.roscomanufacturing.com/shop/barrels/purebred-barrels/purebred-13-7-223-wylde-barrel/