whip

Not for 3-gun, but thought about it and decided it is going to be a yote gun. I have rebuilt this thing three different times and I think I have rested on a final configuration (minus the optic that has now been replaced with a Razor).

This was my first USPSA blaster... and I bought it on this forum about 7 years ago from a member named SingleStack. It is a Rusty Kidd Viper. I only started shooting it about two years ago (yes, I sat on the sidelines for 5 years with a gun like this in my closet). It shoots great. SingleStack might not recognize it... but it started life in his hands.

Well... I've been on here forever... might as well start posting some pics! Here is my Limited blaster...

Well, with the addition of a new 650, I figured I should get started on a new bench. Thanks for all the great ideas on this thread. Though it's not 100%,here is my little piece of the garage...

I leave the powder in all of my presses. My powder measures are pretty stained (doesn't bother me at all). I live in Nevada, so I don't really have to worry about moisture in the air.

I run two SDB's and a 650 (just bought it). The SDB's are set up for .40 and .38sc. I am not sure what I'm am going to run with the 650 yet. I might convert one of the SDB's to 9mm and move the 650 to .40 since I find myself shooting more Limited Class now. I used to have a bench that only had enough room for the SDB's to sit right next to each other. Buying the 650 gave me an excuse to build a new bench and I just finished it this weekend; good times!

I used to be into radio controlled cars (like the high dollar fast ones) and they sell titanium, stainless, carbon, and anodized aluminum screws and screw kits. Most are metric, but companies like Losi and Team Associated still run standard. Just google rc screws and you will see a bunch. eBay will be your friend... just search 5-40 screws in the toys and hobbies section. The anodized aluminum varieties are sweet and lend themselves available to be a welcome addition to a flashy open gun! Enjoy!

Ok... just a quick update on the situation. I contacted STI and they responded as such... "Dugan, No sir, that is not a defect. We made I few changes to our polymer grip. The rib in the sear spring cannel is to tighten up the sear spring on some of the aftermarket sears used. All of our grips produced will have that change made to it. The changes that were made is not to fix any problems just to improve the product. Sincerely, Houston Baker" So, just an FYI incase you did what I did and tried to make a quick grip change and run into a part change. It was an easy fix. I just dremeled out the rib, put the original sear spring in, and moved on.

All my sear springs are too wide to fit the channel with the rib there. They slide right in until they rest upon the rib. The rib definitely needs to go. The one I am transferring over is peened, which even adds to the poor fit. I'll send a picture to STI to make them aware. The rib is so perfectly formed that it looks like it was intentional. Plus, it looks like it was injection molded. For the rib to exist, it seems as though the tool/die was cut for it. It doesn't "look" like a mistake. It really has me puzzled. I am interested to hear what you all have to say and what they have to say.

Thanks for the confirmation that I wasn't losing my mind. My only issue is that I had Extreme Shooters special order it, reduce it, texture it, and install high-dollar grip tape on it. A simple "replacement" isn't going to cut it. At this point in time, I might as well chuck it up and machine out the rib. Brutal!

So, in an effort to make my open gun look similar to my limited gun, I am in the process of swapping to a new grip. Easily done... right? Just prior to this post, all is a cake walk... then I go to install my sear spring and it doesn't fit! It is too wide. I look inside the mainspring housing channel and I see a perfectly formed rib running down the left hand side of the channel that disallows the sear spring to lay flat against the floor of the channel (see attached photo). I look closely at my old open gun grip and see nothing. I don't even see machine marks where one would have been had it been milled out. I then look at my limited gun and find nothing there either. Did I get a grip built on a Friday?

I am loving the information. Thanks a bunch. I got some trigger time today at lunch (see, living and working in the desert has its benefits!) and Tussey solved my hammer follow issue so I can check this off if the list. 120 rounds and it ran flawless. I noticed the ejections were to the side of me and consistent. The brass still has the ding, but is less pronounced. It is more like a surface mark. I am going to take some advice and lower my load down to 4.8gr and after I run a couple lots, I will look at decreasing the OAL to 1.170. The tough thing about moving from Open to Limited for me is the increased recoil. I am running a Rusty Kidd Viper and that thing has about as my ports in it as it holds rounds. I am wondering if I am limp wristing the gun and retarding the slide because I am spoiled with my low recoil Open blaster? Retarding the slide action may result in the brass not making it out of the ejection port properly. Any thoughts?

I tried to get a good photo in the sunlight for you guys to view. Upon close inspection, I see a touch of paint wear towards the rear of the ejection port (on the outside edge of the slide) and some paint wear on the bottom of the ejection port (almost center). Looks like my brass could be hitting one of those two areas (or both), but it is tough to tell because I never took a baseline off of a newly painted gun.

I just got back from Tussey Customs. Got a new hammer, sear, and trigger job while I waited (gotta love that). Hopefully the hammer follow is a thing of the past and I should be able to consistently gets rounds down range. I am going to take it up in the hills this evening when it cools down and try to observe where the brass lands. As far as the type of extractor and recoil spring; unknown. I bought the gun used. It isn't an Aftec like on my open blaster. There is an aluminum buffer (not rubber like I am used to) installed. As far as extractor fit? It looks good to me. I am not educated on the angles and clocking needed to tune an extractor, so I have to just hope it is correct. It does fit nice on the firing pin stop (no wiggling affecting clocking). Minus the hammer follow issue, I haven't had any FTF or FTE. Rear of the port is relieved. I'll try to post a pick. Now that I think about... I should of asked Terry to look at it while I was in there. Duh??? Missed that opportunity!

Nice point. I'll try to check it out next time I shoot it.Edited to add... If I can ever get this thing to run through a full mag!

The important word of the phrase was "try" to find it... and it was in the first place I looked (that rarely happens with me). Here is a photo:

I sent my M9A1 slide to Tool Tech to replace the rear sight with a Trijicon rear and they drilled and inserted a Trijicon filament into the front sight (it was milled into the slide). When they sent it back to me, they sent back the original rear sight. I'll try to find it. If it will work, you can have it.

First, let me say that I am glad I have an open gun because this limited gun and I are having a love/hate relationship right now. I want to switch from Open to Limited really bad, but this thing is killing me. So far, I have had the following issues: Light primer strikes: Fixed by Limcat XL Firing Pin. They were REALLY light, so I don't think my SRP's were the issue. SPP's would have likely done the same. Hammer Follow: Will be fixed by Tussey Customs Sunday when he installs a new hammer/sear in it. Dented Brass: This is the newest issue. I had to take the photo in the sun because the dent is very small. It is very consistent and on every piece of ejected brass. Any ideas as to the cause? I am running the following: VV N320: 5.2gr Zero JHP: 180gr CCI: SRP Starline Brass: New OAL: 1.180" If I can say ANYTHING good about this gun, I have not experienced any FTF or FTE. PS - I feel like I am talking behind its back and it is listening... I could be in for trouble!

Good info. We loaded some up today and they cycle great. Don't have time to chrono, but theyll work for our local match. I appreciate the help.

5.2 is what I load my STI at, so that is one less thing I need to change on my press, but I load my STI at 1.180 OAL. It sounds like I just seat it deeper and roll with it. I went to VV's website to see what they suggest and it is pretty sparse on the N320/180gr combo. They do show a starting load for a 180gr Fiocchi LTC (not sure what LTC signifies), but they suggest 3.5gr starting charge of N320. They also show a Speer 180gr HP, but they don't have any info for N320.

I have a friend that I am trying to get into shooting and he doesn't have any ammo (or money) for the match this weekend. I am hooking him up with some components that I load my STI with, but he is shooting a stock Para, so my long loaded home brews aren't really applicable. This is what I am hooking him up with: Zero 180gr JHP VV N320 New Starline Brass CCI Small Rifle Primers For a good safe load in a stock Para, I am in dire need of the following: Powder charge OAL Again, sorry for leaning on you all so late in the game, but any info on a load with the components I mentioned will get him some trigger time.

I had no idea. Thanks for the info. I might as well give it a shot!

Excellent. Thanks a bunch. It looks like I have a yellow/8. I appreciate the info. Since I am getting a new one, I wonder if I should get a different MOA? Since I already have an 8 off of my old one, what other size would you recommend?

Well, my blaster took a header onto my tile floor and cracked my Cmore Serendipity (the side where the bolts bolt it to the frame of the gun). I now need to buy a new one, but I get a choice of what MOA to have installed in it. I like what is in it now, so how do I know what is in it so I can order one just like it?