ScottieShootz

I've got one on order from PT, so 2 more weeks or so I guess. I'll be using a CK frame, my question is, how tight should this grip fit/how much wiggle room? Everyone talks about them breaking parts on the frame if not fitted properly. Should it slide on like a nicely fit slide/frame?

Which extractor did you buy? 9/38Super comp or the 38super?

My understanding is the Romeo 1 has its own mount pattern. The Romeo 3 mounts to the RTS2 pattern.

Here's what I see- 1) Reloads on the move- both the speed of the reload itself and the confidence to do it while moving 2) Call your shots- as mentioned by others, don't look for the sunlight holes or go back to a target after you shot the array to put 1 more round on it before moving. 3) Movement - this is where you can make up lots of time. Move with authority to your next shooting spot and take as few steps as you need to get there. those 3 would be the ones I'd work on and don't change your actual shooting pace hitting alphas and see what happens.

looks slick!

To follow up on this: I've got my Romeo3, I tested on a cheely cmore mount and will definitely need lots of adjustment (in my mind). 1: the curve on the blast shield section means the romeo3 sits back from being pushed up against the blast shield a few MM to sit flat. Would need to mill this to a hard edge. 2: The blast shield comes up a solid 1/3 or more of the optic glass, this would need to be milled down in height. 3: Need to mill off the excess mount on the rear and drill tap for Romeo screws. 4: refinish the mount since its hacked up. So, I'm saying screw that and buying a rts2 mount.

Glad to hear! I'm building my open gun, but just decided to order a PT Evo grip instead of using the plastic.

that stage looks awesome!

If I didn't have a parts bin for my open build I'd go buy a ck arms from shooter connection and call it a day. Custom gun at a great price and no wait time but the ffl shipping time.

Most of these builders must be working non stop, as I've only heard back from 2 in the past few months. Either that or they only want to deal with new builds? Gary Natale has been the best I've ever dealt with. Glenn @ Lonestar was/is supposed to be milling an Open slide, but that started back in July and I can rarely get a hold of him nor have I heard anything about my slide being done. He has my racker and was supposed to fit it. Somehow my order slipped through the cracks with the other slides back in july/sept and now who knows.... Sad thing, I wanted an open slide, compensator, and his rear bomar style sight to put on another build and was looking at having him build me a 9 limited for 3gun. I just messaged Blackdog Gunworks yesterday about an open slide as I like his tier rear swoop design and overall open slide design. Have to wait and see if just milling a slide is something they will do. I'll just buy a new racker at this point as I'm tired of waiting.

I use a wood burning tool instead of a soldering iron. Mine came with 8 or 10 tip options that screw in. I really only use 2 of them, the fine point tip and flat blade. I have a waffle type one as well that would make the DVC grip pattern but I'm not a fan of that style. I tape off the sections I don't want to stipple which creates the straight lines for me to follow.

Right, I see that as well. I've got a buddy that wanted to try USPSA and shoots L10 because he has a bull barrel 1911, so he bought a bunch of 10round mags. and here I am with a 2011 build wanting to add more reloads to my game.....

Sounds good, I'll give it a go with 5 mags and see if I need to add one more to the mix. I must be one of the only people in a free state that is actually wanting to shoot L10.

I don't have to follow magazine placement rules on the hip correct with L10. same rules as limited just 10round mags, 11 to start with 1 in the pipe. I'm going to need to pick up another racemaster mag pouch as well.

I'm seriously considering shooting L10 at every match now just to change things up and add more reloading to my stages. I enjoy the reloading game and shooting production doesn't thrill me. Besides being in the middle of a new Open build, everyone is in Open/Limited and the handful of guys shooting L10 in the area are always the same group. Why not mix it up a bit! Anyone on here shoot L10 as a regular division? I have 4 140mm mags, I probably need to order 1 more for 5 in total don't I? (may give mbx a shot)

So, is this better than the Racemaster holster? I haven't been able to figure out where in the product line this holster sits.

13:50 for the explanation of 1in from the target.

I've always wanted to venture to using motor oil, but doesn't anyone have staining issues on their clothes? I run my systems wet, and occasionally use my shirt or shorts to wipe off my hands or top of slide. I know a towel would make life easier......

For those of you running metal grips, do you run an aluminum magwell or a stainless for more weight?

Ah, I knew I was forgetting someone.

Who has blank comps out there that I could use for an iron sight set up for 40sw.

Ok, so sounds like I'll buy the 38 Super extractor and see how she goes bang. Now if I can get my slide from Lone Star everything can go together.

Not starting a who/why/what/how come thread: Building a new open gun, my practice ammo is 38 Super Auto and my match is 38SC from atlanta arms, the extractors are in question. I know some people have gotten away with running the same extractor and its worked for both rounds. (it's a big savings running Super for practice only but I'd like to run SC for the extra round/mag reliability for matches.) My question is: which extractor should I buy to see if it will run both S and SC before jumping to buy one of each extractor and swapping them. I haven't read anyone's post that said which extractor they had in the gun. Do I buy the SuperComp extractor and see if that will run both? Cheers!

I've thought about the TiCN coating for the mags. Once a year I'll toss mine in the media then hit everything with Flitz to polish it up.

my only issue would be losing the warranty on the optic if I mess with the housing.