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SouperMan

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Posts posted by SouperMan

  1. 3 minutes ago, RaleighFireWall said:

    In the market for a P01. Does *CA* Compliant mean that the handgun only comes with 10 rd. magazines to comply with the law, but will accept 14 round magazines as well, or does it mean totally restricted to 10 rd. magazines only? 

     

    It will come with 10 round magazines for legal sale, and it will accept all magazines made for the P-01 regardless of capacity.

  2. 1 hour ago, fireman1776 said:

    Anyone have a good video for this? I’m not finding one that shows how to fit the sear. 
     

    Also any tips/advice welcome! 


    Are you talking about fitting the sear to the hammer? Or are you talking about reassembling the sear assembly?
     

    Fitting the Cajun Adjustable Sear and Short Reset System is usually very plug and play, and with the Cajun Adjustable Sear you are actually fitting the safety. Normally you would have to file on the lobe/arm that touches the safety, but a set screw accomplishes this with the Cajun Adjustable Sear. When properly adjusted, the safety will get in the way of the sear and prevent the hammer from dropping in Single Action.
     

    On the CZ75 series, there are some tolerances with the Cajun Gun Works Sear that permit the safety to be engaged when the hammer is down (Double Action), but the safety is not meant to be used in this condition. This isn’t a defect either as the safety operation is paramount when it is in Single Action. 

  3. 44 minutes ago, DenC said:

    Hello everyone!

    As a new IPSC shooter, was getting into the intricacies of ammo/reloading management. Looking through this forum and asking a more seasoned buddy, it seems like most practice the:

    If the brass/ammo shell/case ain't cracked or you don't lose is at the range, keep using it.

    I understand this increases the chance of case failure but I have been told if the case fails because of this. its the front part of the case that will be the first to go/crack and it will not damage the gun.

     

    Currently using a small Stock 1 and looking at small frame Stock 3 in the future.

    For Tanfo owners here, has this kind of case failure happen to you and how did your Tanfo handle it? Any damage to the gun or the magazine?

    And are Tanfoglio and CZ barrels supported in the chamber area? (I think glocks have lesser support in that part)

    Thanks in advance for anything you can share.

     

     

    Most modern guns are pretty tolerant to case failures. Tanfoglio and CZ (the ones from actual Czech Republic) are members of C.I.P., a safety regulatory body that tests guns to be proofed at 30% more power than what a normal cartridge would normally have. This isn’t protection from a double charge, but it attests to the quality of the chamber.

     

    That being said, I’ve fire-cracked a decent amount of 9mm cases with no ill effect. The worst failure I have ever seen from another Tanfoglio shooter at a local match is that a case split perfectly in half width wise and left a brass ring in the chamber (zero’d a stage but was able to clear it afterwards.)  This type of weird brass has thicker brass ledge in the back half of the case from the primer forward, but then about halfway it gets really normal thin towards the mouth of the case. I’ve learned to cull this type of brass from reloading, as I suspect after repeated sizing they get stressed from the ledge and the thin brass, and eventually fail. More information about this brass here:

     

  4. Check to see if your trigger bar support spring is giving enough tension, and that it’s not caught in between the frame of the gun or the trigger bar. 
     

    The retaining screw (that also holds the mag release) which affects the tension of the trigger bar support spring might also be canting the spring right/left that it causes it to bind. 

  5. 3 hours ago, bimmerland said:

    CZ custom spring not compatible with my TS2. They sent me on for a test and it was the wrong configuration. 

    Crud I apologize, I didn’t read properly and you were looking for a Tactical Sport 2 Trigger Return Spring, not a Shadow 2/SP-01 spring. 

  6. The trigger bar spring is held down with a screw that is staked into place. I usually tell people to not mess with it, but it’s not always a good litmus test but I would check the staking of the screw first to rule out the trigger bar spring. Of note, that screw is also needed to change the magazine release orientation as well.

     

    If the screw is unstaked, what you can do is back the screw off, which will increase the spring tension to raise the trigger bar. You have to play with it to find the sweetspot; tightened down too much and it won’t reset properly, but loosened too much and the trigger will feel grittier/hard. 

     

    I would also take a look at the Trigger Return Spring; sometimes it being too light combined with the weakened screw state of the Trigger Bar Spring can make things feel super gritty and not reset as well. 

  7. 19 hours ago, Redhemi said:

    It's exactly the same as in the CZs. When you pull the trigger the FP block lifter in the sear cage lifts the block so the FP can go forward. Once you move the hammer forward and release the trigger the FP block is back in lock position and should be drop safe.

     

    Wanted to clarify that on a CZ, the Firing Pin Block gets pushed up by the Firing Pin Block Lifter and out of the way when you pull the trigger. The Tanfoglio is opposite of this. The Firing Pin Block is dropped out of the way of the sear leg when you pull the trigger.  @MemphisMechanic does a great job explaining this in their post about fitting a Extending Firing Pin Block:

     

     

  8. 1 hour ago, DenC said:

    Hello everyone.

    Thinking about getting a Cz75B and Cz75B Compact down the road.

    Question on decocking these pistols:

    If I keep the trigger depressed until the hammer is fully decocked against the slide (as required in production class) then release the trigger,
     is the firing pin block fully re-engaged and is the pistol drop safe again?

    Thanks for any input.


    When you pull the trigger, the firing pin block lifter in the sear assembly pushes up on the firing pin block on the slide, allowing the firing pin to travel in the firing pin channel. 
     

    At all times when the gun is at rest with the trigger not actuated, the firing pin block is engaged and actively blocking. 
     

  9. 1 hour ago, ColoradoNick said:

    I’m looking at investing in an ultrasonic cleaner. I’ve never used one before so I’m looking for advice both in model recommendations and whether you thought your purchase was worth it.
     

    With the amount of ammo I’ve been shooting lately I’ve been disassembling everything but the hammer and sear cage about once a month. Removing the grips and dropping the frame minus slide into an ultrasonic parts cleaner seems like a much easier process. I’m afraid I’m going to lose a detent or detent spring the way I have been doing it. Thoughts? What’s your process?


    If you do do it, make sure you clean/dry out the firing pin channel and under the sights. Ultrasonic cleaning strips lots of oils and can lead to rusting. 
     

    I don’t think I have ever done such a super detail clean and I think it might be unnecessary. Maybe after 2-3 matches, I’d do a boresnake and some light cleaning to make sure the trigger bar and sear are working smoothly. And maybe once a year or before a major match I’d tear down everything on my SP-01 to give it a once over deep clean with fresh new springs. 
     

  10. 37 minutes ago, HI5-O said:

    Shooting a steel match and my S2 locked up about a half inch out of battery and the safety is on. Unable to deactivate the safety and unable to move the slide. Any ideas on how to get it open? 

    Assuming no rounds in the chamber? 

     

    I’d take a hard plastic mallet and bump the slide to the disassembly position, and then tap the slide lock out. And I would carefully tap the slide out by force at this point. 
     

    Could be a binding recoil spring that you need to overcome to get it fixed. 

  11. 5 minutes ago, DrJohnson said:

    Very odd/concerning experience the other day, shooting my Shadow 2 9mm and felt something like a misfire/squib. Slide was also jammed/stuck slightly out of battery. I assumed I had a low charge/no charge (I reload), so cleared it and bumped the stuck case out with a cleaning rod. The case was split, which seemed odd since it had been stuck in the chamber. I checked the gun, and reloaded. Same result - jammed slide and split case stuck in the chamber. Same process, cleared the weapon and checked it. Figuring it was unlikely I could have two low/no charges in a row, I started wondering what the issue might be. I decided to load factory rounds (Blazer 115g) to remove the reload/old case variable, same result - split case stuck in chamber, jammed slide. The barrel was clear each time, none were squibs, but felt like them when they fired. So three rounds fired from two different ammo sources (one factory new), same result each time. 

     

    I had recently cleaned the weapon pretty thoroughly, so don't think crud's a factor. idk if I did something really dumb reassembling it, but don't think so. I replaced springs and barrel over 1000 rounds ago and it's worked flawlessly since then, so nothing has changed as far as I know...but I went from flawless to almost 100% failure, jammed & split cases, so clearly something changed. Any thoughts?


    Are you sure you that you don’t have a barrel/chamber issue? Check for cracks or bulging. 
     

    Any chance we can see a photo of the split case and the barrel with a close up of the chamber?

     

    Highly odd that you are seeing so many split cases. It almost seems as if the barrel chamber is out of spec allowing the brass to expand so much that it’s splitting. 
     

    Did you happen to catch the headstamp of the brass that failed?

  12. 2 hours ago, MJF said:

    I have three holsters for my Shadow 2, all from top tier companies. My problem is unless the tension screws are almost completely backed out it is very difficult to draw the gun from the holster. The holster mounted with a Boss hanger on a DA belt works the best due to the belt being very stiff. The two with Teklok mounted on a standard everyday gun belt are very frustrating. When I draw the gun it sticks in the holster and the whole mess wants to swing up { the muzzle wants to swing out and up } If I turn these holsters upside-down and shake, the gun easily drops out.

     

    I have many different handguns & holsters and I only have a problem with the Shadow 2. Anyone else have this problem?

     

    Thank you,

    Mike


    Silly question, but is the holster right handed or left handed? Trying to think where it’s getting hung up, like the mag release or the slidestop. Usually it’s a matter of breaking in the holster but drawing and holstering to wear in the kydex. Any chance the holsters were deformed in high heat? 
     

    It seems that you are OWB carrying your Shadow 2. I don’t have a lot of retention on my competition holster, and my gun would probably fall out of the holster if I did the upside down test. When walking stages, for extra security I’ve seen folks use a tarp tie down to keep their guns in the holster but I don’t think that’s an option for you. 

  13. 25 minutes ago, Rudukai13 said:

    Anyone dealt with this before? Started when I was at the range today. When the gun fires the slide cycles and it looks like the hammer resets, but the trigger is dead. I have to thumb the hammer back a small amount to get a “click” when the sear re-engages and then the trigger is live again. It’s doing this with both live ammo and dryfire manipulations - cycling the slide doesn’t reset the trigger, thumbing the hammer back does.

     

    Any suggestions?


    Suggestions:

     

    Do you have a trigger stop screw? Might have walked out a little and needs to be backed out. 

     

    Might be time to replace the trigger return spring. 
     

    Check the trigger bar/plunger spring to see if the trigger bar is moving freely. 
     

    Check your sear spring. 
     

     

  14. 5 hours ago, StanJ said:

    The stock 2 is by far the more popular of these two guns.  But I would like to hear from those of you who have experience with both.  How different are they really?  Is  the premium price on the stock 2 justified? 


    Not sure about the new IDPA rules, but the LimPro was a gun that could play in Stock Service Pistol for IDPA and USPSA Production for its day. (There was a whole debacle about Shadow 1 in IDPA a few years back.) The Stock 2 couldn’t be used in IDPA because of it’s cone barrel. The Shadow 2 in IDPA is too much of a gamer gun for Stock Service Pistol.  
     

    The Stock 2 was used by the Eric Grauffel and Ben Stoeger to take many IPSC and USPSA titles respectively at the height of its popularity, now the new hotness is the CZ Shadow 2, or a Canik if you follow No Skills Nills :) 

     

    I personally feel that the Tanfoglio really fixed some of the shortcomings of the 75B/SP-01 with the LimPro/Stock. No firing pin stop pin, improved trigger bar spring system (plunger bar), and a few other refinements. 
     

    That all said, if the rules are still in place and you want to shoot both IDPA and USPSA (and want to shoot Tanfoglio) with the same gun, I’d pick the LimPro. I don’t shoot IDPA anymore, but my gun of choice for USPSA is the Stock 2. 

  15. 1 hour ago, CHuynh said:

    Hey folks,

     

    I am unfortunately in California and am in the mercy of its handgun roster. 
     

    I've always wanted a Cz, and after shooting Glocks for a few years I want to start looking for A CZ for Carry Optics or Limited Optics. 
     

    Would y'all folks recommend to buy a SP-01 and have it worked on by CGW or fork out the off-roster tax for a Shadow 2 (some folks selling a Shadow 2 OR for $3-4K), which would significantly increase the costs after getting work done on it compared to a Sp-01. 
     

    My CO gun right now is a Glock 17 Gen 3 with a Timney trigger. 


    That’s a tough decision. If you are ok with it, get a SP-01 as a stepping stone to your future Carry Optic gun…and hopefully the stupid roster will go away by then.
     

    Doing some rough estimates, a stock SP-01 retails for about $800. You can cheap out for the time being and get a optic adapter plate (dovetail) for about $50-70 or milling services for about $200-300, a carry optic (if you don’t already have one), and a Cajun Gun Works Package/Tuning kit for say $300 (easy to DIY) and you are in the ball park of about $1600-1900. 

     

    Or, you get a California Markup Shadow 2 Optics Ready for $3k+.


    What ever you choose, factor $250-400 for a belt, mag pouch, and holster system for each. 

  16. 13 hours ago, EJK said:

    Hi,

     

    Has anyone tried getting their P01 slide milled from NCEngravers? Their turn arouns time is not long and somewhat local to me. TIA

     

    Sorry, no experience but looking on their Instagram page they do seem to have experience working on CZs if that helps.

  17. On 1/13/2023 at 7:19 PM, Armando said:

    Good day folks, unfortunately I'm having an issue with my GT40. 

    It seems that after I cleaned it, either I did something wrong or I'm missing a piece. 

     

    Tried to fire at the range and it wouldn't fire, the hammer seems to not be hitting all the way down.  

    Any advice? 

     

    Some things to consider:

    • Is the hammer dropping to the half-cock notch?
    • Does the hammer drop with the slide off? (Don't let the hammer drop onto the frame/sear assembly. Thumb the hammer down with the finger pinning the trigger.)
    • Check the trigger bar, and check to see if the pins holding hammer to the strut isn't knocked loose/in the way.
    • Another thing to check if something is causing the firing pin block to not get out of the way. You can check with a unloaded pistol and a pencil in the barrel, and seeing if the firing pin hits the pencil. Try it with the gun pointed up, and try it as if you were shooting at a target. This can also help determine if the firing pin is broken.
  18. With the slide removed, take a close look with the hammer in the decock position and pull the trigger. Just wondering if there’s something up with the sear spring but I don’t think it would interrupt the slide from being pulled back unless it was hitting against the sear assembly if it was out of whack. It could also be the trigger bar as well, the trigger bar spring leg might have slipped off one side of the trigger bar groove. 

  19. 40 minutes ago, YVK said:

    I'm not a very attentive dude and I don't know when this started to happen. Stuart and his crew cut this slide for me in '18, I think. The gun functions fine in live fire. In dry fire I can carefully pull it back and it will stay in that position. Tapping it or racking it releases it forward. Regular unmilled slide doesn't do it on this frame. Swapping barrels and recoil guides makes no difference. I guess it is binding somewhere but I can't figure out where.

    ????

     

     

     

     

    20230102_224254.jpg

     

    Ideas:

    *Check to see if there is gunk build up in the locking lugs on the barrel, or any peening or deformation.

    *Also, do you happen to have an extra Slide Stop? Swap it out. 

    *Recoil Spring is binding somewhere on the recoil guide rod with gunk or a divot?

     

  20. 45 minutes ago, WYgunner said:

    Can anyone explain what the roll pin is used for in the Cajun RRK part number 75850?  I don’t see any mention of it in the installation instructions.  Disconnector to hammer?  Thanks in advance.


    That pin is used to help you install the Trigger Return Spring when you install the trigger back into the frame. When it’s in position, you can place the trigger pin and it gets pushed out.  
     

    Other way to do it is either gentle tapping until the Trigger Return Spring is in position with squeezing with your finger or forceps, but the pin does the trick. 

  21. Nice! The ones in stock with CZCustom are the newest kits.
     

    I bought my Kadet 2 awhile ago, and the older ones have a slide contour profile that matches the CZ75B. When used on the SP-01, there’s a cosmetic gap but it’ll work. 

  22. 2 hours ago, DenC said:

    Hello everyone. Just wanted to know what is the best thing to do when dry firing a Tanfoglio pistol. I have a Stock 1. Looking at a Stock 3 also.

    Is using a snap cap enough to prevent damage? Or is it a better to use an o-ring at the firing pin retainer plate area (as recommended for cz75B models, though this is mostly recommended due to the fps design in the cz B series)

    Or should I use both snap caps and o-ring?
     

    Also for snap caps, do these wear out (I see springs on some of them)? And is there a good brand you can recommend?

    Thanks in advance.

     

    O-Rings should be sufficient. 

     

    Snap caps aren't a bad idea and should help stop the forward travel of the firing pin since it's not stopped by a firing pin stop pin like on the CZ75Bs, but I don't do a Double-Action Pull each time, after I do the Double Action pull, I pin the trigger back to do the successive shots.

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