mikeyjones

I did something similar for my handgun mags. I'm still struggling with Pmags and hexmags for my ARs.

Interested in this as well. Subscribing to topic

I use the AIM LW BCG. No issues with mine and the difference in recoil is definitely noticeable. Very happy with mine after 2k rounds through it.

This is exactly what I was looking to do for my handgun mags. Have you figured out something for polymer rifle mags?

They buy back brass and give you credit towards stuff on their site: https://www.freedommunitions.com/brass-credit-program

Yes. Even if you only use it to send to Freedom Munitions. Or you could decide to sell it. 9mm brass doesn't go for much, but it's better than 0.

Both of you mentioned boxes of some sort. I'm trying to get away from that because it's still inconvenient to get to the actual mags when they're put away. I'm thinking of hanging them on the wall somehow - can easily be done with magnets for handguns, but I'm lost for my plastic rifle mags.

Alright guys, throwing this out to the collective brain trust here. I'm trying to organize my mags - both handgun and rifle. I have a good amount of mags and no way to organize them that makes sense. Right now I've been keeping them unloaded in 1 qt plastic bins. The problem there is that I have to dig around for the mags I need. Very inconvenient. So after rearranging my gun room, I have some wall space I'd like to use to hang up the mags. I figure that's the easiest way to be able to get all of them organized and easily only take the ones I need. Has anyone done anything like this? Would magnetic tool holders work for the handgun mags? What would I do for the fully plastic ones? TIA for any help.

Another one that hasn't been mentioned is Storm Lake. They also make a quality product. But you can't go wrong w/ KKM.

I've been running the AIM in my 3gun gun. No issues with about 3k rounds so far through it.

Just be smart. I shoot indoors weekly, reload coated and fmj while wearing nitrile gloves. Got my blood tested earlier this year, level was a 4. So moral of the story is wash your hands and don't breath in what you shouldn't. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not using the stock follower. Upgrade to an aluminum low drag one. I'm going to work on the shell catch a little more.

Update 2: I decided to play around w/ the mag spring a bit more this morning. I trimmed a few more coils off and it's ~9" past the end of the tube and it's running a bit better. It only intermittently fails to load the first round. But if I rack the bolt forcefully, it'll release that shell. I'm afraid to trim more off the spring for fear it'll stop loading the last round in the tube. Any other suggestions?

So as an update, I was able to get the bolt release off with the help of a drill. I'll retap it and put the extended bolt release on at a later time. I tried grinding down the carrier latch a bit, but am still having the same issue. Is there a Benelli part I can drop in to alleviate this?

I started having an issue today at a match that I've never experienced before which led to an other issue when I got home. I have a factory M3K w/ a Nordic +8 extension. Never had any issues feeding shells before. Today, when I put 8 or more in the tube, it refused to release the first shell. So on every stage, I had to pull up on the bolt release then fight the jam that it caused to get it to manually load the first shell. After that, it ran fine. I didn't understand what exactly what causing it until I got home. When I got home, I loaded some dummy shells to recreate the situation. If I put 6 in the tube, it runs flawlessly. Releases the first shell onto the carrier without any issue. As soon as I put 7 or more, things stop working. I initially thought it was the spring since I never trimmed it and it was about 16" past the end of the tube. Got out my measuring tape and pliers and trimmed it 5 coils to get it to be ~12" past the end of the tube. Still the same thing. So at this point, I detail stripped the shotgun. I wanted to examine the carrier latch assembly and possibly try to smooth it out and round it out a bit. However, I can't get the stupid screw holding the extended bolt release off. I'm afraid it might already be stripped. I've tried heat, and PB blaster to no avail. Any secret to getting the carrier latch assembly out?

Don't think you're the only one looking for them. Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

After you open tapatalk, search for "enos forums" by clicking the magnifying glass icon at the top.

Finally working without reinstall. Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

Same thing for me.

I was under the impression that was only the case if you used the end mill but if you used there "boring bar" you wouldn't need to chamfer debur I could be wrong. http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx/honey-badger-boring-bar-two-carbide-inserts/40/ But you will get vibration with a boring bar. If you wet tumble after trimming with steel media, that will get rid of the burs.

Get the squirreldaddy ones. You won't regret it.

I usually do it from low ready since I also can't draw from holster at my range.

If this went through, I'm good. Sent from my Z812 using Tapatalk

Is there really that much of a difference to justify the added cost over the 1-6x? I can't see it making much of one on the courses I've shot.

I've been using for a while now. Like was mentioned, a few hundred cases isn't an issue. But do anything more than 200, and your hand starts to cramp up. If you can find something to spin it much faster than a drill (ideally 5K+ rpm) you'll be better off. The cuts will be faster and less strain on your hands. I tried a router at first, but was getting too much vibration from the unbalanced heavy weight on the end of it. Then got a cheap drill press, mounted the motor sideways in a vice and use that to power the tri-way. This will work well for a while. However, if you shoot a lot, you can't beat something automated and press mounted.