Joefischetti

I won one and tried it for a few matches. Great on hoser bays and ok when practicing, but I found it to be a problem for me on the clock with longer range accuracy targets. Many friends have great results but I am to used to a true 2 stage .

Practicing at a local club with my AR for an upcoming match at the 300 yard range. I meet some very nice gentleman shooting a nicer than average bolt gun. They have spent thousands more on their bolts but are happy with the same results I get from my simple AR. Will I do better building a 308 .

Very happy with my Odin Works 16 " IM Wylde barrel this year. Great results with many types of factory ammo. It likes plain Jane .223 and loves Federal Match King.

A dot for my near sighted eyes is GTG out to around 100. Actually for me I struggle if running a variable dialed up much more than 1.5. Just understand the MOA of the dot and your zero. It you have a big dot like a Trijicon 8 MOA, realize you may cover your target unless you zero it like doting an I.

I know about the system . I like to change one thing at a time so I can observe the results, good or bad. I also gain experience on how each part works with the others. Just like a pistol recoil spring that is too strong driving the muzzle down as the gun goes into battery I was going to play with the weights. I know folks that run LW BCG with all he weight out of the buffer and a plain GB. My thoughts were to reduce the weight of the buffer by the same amount of difference between the BCGs. TIA

Running an intermediate gas length 16" Tunned my muzzle brake to where the dot does not move and I can now get great hammers on bay stages. I wanted to try and save some weight. Installed a light weight BCG. Left the carbine buffer as is. Noticed my dot diving straight down. Should I experiment with removing weight from buffer or go back to a standard BCG? TIA

I used a laser to tune my Atlas 5 and it is fantastic. I never realized how good a muzzle device could be until I tuned it.

Any updates?

Looking forward to trying this.

SC excellent post

Stupid Simple. Great vid and concept. Will try at next range trip!

Exit pupil is a fixed dimension based on your optic's objective lense as compared to the magnification. Eye relief , which is also referred to as eye box , is how much distance/space you can have behind the focal commalation of the reticle. The more eye relief the more forgiving is your placement/cheek weld behind the optic. You should set up your optic to offer you the best "eye box" across your shooting spectrum. Everyone's eyes will be different as compared to the scopes specs as folk!s pupils dialte different. As we age our pupils cannot dialte as wide and our "eye box" contracts. Mounting the gun consistently, you should not have problems with the eye box if you have set the scope at the correct distance forward/reward.

Stick with paper or load something in my i pad/ I phone If paper can you recommend a format. TIA

Great match . As posted , stages that newbies and seasoned folks could run side by side. Cheers to all of us that choose to show up in adverse weather conditions and run their gear.

Thru out the last past 8 weeks I ran about 350 rounds of 1 once 7.5 2 3/4 dram loads with no problem. Shooting a match this past weekend and the first two stages are great . The shotgun turns into a one shot gun. Lube it up and the following stage is still a single shot gun A great squad mate gives me two boxes of 11/8 once rounds and the next stage is perfect ?

Parallax is not about the shooters sight pic and alignment with respect to the tube or sight pic Parallax is the point where the scope's internal set up allows the pic to be resolved. Some set ups end up with this in front of the ocular , on it or beyond it. Adjustable parallax scopes can adjust for this with a side or objective "wheel". The typical 1x6 scope or most other rifle caliber scopes have a fixed parallax . Most manufactures set carbine and rifle parallax at 100 yards just like most .22lr scopes are fixed at 50yards. When you look thru your scope and you do not see the whole picture and or clouding , that is a result of your position behind the glass Better scopes have larger eye relief which is more forgiving to cheek weld/position resulting in a better or worse sight picture thru the scope. If you know your glass resolves the pic before or after the ocular lense then maybe by pushing your eye in or out may help but most good glass is parallax free as per the intended use

S1, Where did you get a Strikefire for $247.00 ?

There is less difference between the Vipers and the Razors but the Strike Eagle is very nice for the money. The Eagles eye box is close to the others so position will not be that much better. Clarity and brighter picture is what you get with the others. If you are new to the AR and or gun games, I would spend money on ammo and training and get better glass when everything else catches up.

I watched the video and I must state that I disagree with the title but agree with how to get a good sight pic. Parallax is where the scope can focus the objective picture. In front , on or behind the reticle. The subject covered in the video was all about eye relief. Eye relief is about seeing the maximum field of view at the particular setting. Some scopes handle parallex with a front or objective focus , others use a side focus. Parallax has little to do with how much sight pic you see. That is eye relief and some designs have more than others. Distance of the ocular lense from the eye based on the design will reveal the optimum "eye box".Lower power scopes use an ocular focus to clean up the reticle based on a users eye relief and their ability to focus on that reticle with in the established parallel. There is no substitute for proper cheek and stock weld as that allows one to acquire the best sight picture and I agree 100% with that part of the video.

All the above are GTG options but it all comes down to your eyes. Some folks cannot use a red dot even with corrected lenses as their astigmatism can only be corrected so far. Others do not have the ability to focus and adjust to different "Eye Box" lengths. I am near sighted with astigmatism , super right eye dominate, and the left eye is 3 times weaker than my right. You can get a decent optic in your price range but you want to find what works for you. Try everything you can get your hands on and get sight pics at different ranges and positions. I like a bigger eye box than a small tube because my weak left eye needs all the help shooting support side.

I am new to the shot gun world but I just went thru some basic pattering/zeroing to get my shotgun ready for the 3G season. I have found three different brands, mixed loads, all to be different. Some were high left, some were all over, some right on and it changed with certain chokes. My gun really likes Fiocchi 7/8 once slugs thru IC & M chokes. No real difference in Group size. The recoil is also more tame then some of the other brands I was trying.

I have shot almost every brand and type at local multi gun matches in SEPA and I want to settle on the SX3 as I get into 3GUN. A lot of threads over the past few years do not even mention the SX3platform. I know the big rage is the M3000/M3K/BN but I have a few friends running SX3s and even modified 930's . I like the way the SX3 mounts and the light shot sight reacquisition is fast. The couple hundred rounds I have run so far have been flawless.

I sent my request in for the March Event!

I can see a significant difference between the 2 unless lighting and/or flash are making it seem that way.