bveto
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Posts posted by bveto
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During a match yesterday I had a case head separation after my second shot, didn’t realize what had happened tried to chamber 2-3 rounds after the separation, the sleeve seems to have peened itself into the chamber. I’ve tried to get the sleeve out of the barrel using dental picks, pulling a bore snake from the muzzle end and using a over sized copper bore brush. Nothing has worked so far any recommendations on how to remove the sleeve would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry forgot to mention I froze the barrel overnight and tried using the picks and the bore snake when the barrel was removed from the freezer and that didn’t work either.
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20 minutes ago, MoRivera said:
I've heard of folks doing this, especially in a Tactical Sport because they feel the stock trigger is too light and has no wall to the break. Let us know how it works, and be safe.
That's what I did to my Tac Sport. It increased the pull weight about 1/4 pound. I found a web store https://www.cz-parts.com that sells CZ sear springs in different thicknesses, .7mm, .75mm and .8mm, they are all supposed to increase the trigger pull weight. The factory thickness is .6mm, and the Tanfo sear spring is .635mm.
I'm considering ordering one of each to see what pull weight each offers, just haven't been able to talk myself into spending $10 per spring plus shipping from Czech Republic.
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Check out https://www.armorycraft.com/ they have the original CZUB magwell in different colors.
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6 hours ago, Bench said:
The only experience I've had with this powder is just trying to find some...gave up and sticking with Titegroup
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If your still looking for this powder check out Grafs, they have both the 1lb and 4lb in stock.
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/76146
https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/76147
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I’ve tried the LOK thin bogies, the Scale 2.0 grips and the Hennings on my TS. I like the Hennings the best they are aggressive and fit my hands the best.
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I’ve been using the JP 3 port comp for the last two years and it’s been great, for my new build for next year I’m thinking about giving the APA Answer brake a go when it comes out, looks like it might work pretty darn well based on the shooters who have been testing it.
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I use 3.1gr of titegroup with Berry 147’s and my power factor is 130 out of my CZ TS. When I tried coated bullets in 147’s I used 3.0gr to get the same power factor.
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Look at the LAG Tactical Nova holster, it’s available in 3 different cut options, a low, medium or high. There high cut is very similiar to the Nerd.
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I'm using the Special Edition TiN Low Mass Competition BCG from Rubber City Armory. It's the easiest cleaning bolt I have ever had.
https://rubbercityarmory.com/product/tin_low-mass-5-56x45223-competition-bcg-complete/
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I use a Lee Factory Crimp die, I have yet to have a round fail in the Hundo.
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The trigger is great, my brother and I both put them into our PCC's. The reset is short and it has a very clean break to it.
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You won't be disappointed, I have the same lower and his magwell and they work well together.
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If you have a single stag press Hornady makes the Primer Pocket Swage Tool for it. I recently switched to this setup and it is fairly fast, it took me about 15 minutes to swage 100 pieces of brass. The setup if very simple and it doesn't require a lot of force to operate.
https://www.hornady.com/reloading/presses/lock-n-load-accessories/primer-pocket-swage-tool
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I mark all of my LC rifle brass with a Mr. Shooter Brass Marker that i reload, if I pick up any LC that's not mine I will deprime and then swag it before I put in the bucket.
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I'm a fan of the Carbon Arms SSXL caddies, you can either grab 2 or 4 with ease.
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Look at L.A.G.Tactical, The Super 'Nova. I had one for my G34 and just ordered one for my TS. The attention to detail on the holster is absolutely amazing.
PCC Case head separation
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Well I got it out, ended up getting a 3/8-24 tap and screwing it in and using a wooden dowel from the muzzle end to knock it out. The tap maybe screwed in one thread but it was enough to grab the brass and get it out. Thanks for all the advise.