SGC

Just got another case from BBI. Ordered Saturday on my doorstep Thursday, can't ask for any better than that especially in today's climate.

I agree, when I went to the range my intention was not to test for accuracy until I start noticing I wasn't shooting as accurately as normal. Shot some of my old load to ensure it wasn't me and I was able to consistently get groups half the size with Prima V compared to Sport Pistol. If I'm seeing that big of difference at 7 yards I would assume the difference will only be more pronounced at 20 or 25 yards which would be a better test.

I recently ran out of the last of my Prima V stash and bought some Sport Pistol to replace it due to the many good reviews I've seen on it. I used the same BBI 125 TC and 1.110 OAL that I used with the Prima V and worked up a load with the chrono settling on 3.8 grains which gave me 130 power factor out of a Stock 2. Feel is basically identical to my previous load and both have an SD around 10 fps. However, when I shot them for groups I'm getting consistently poor accuracy compared to Prima V at the exact same velocity. I was only shooting at 7 yards but shooting the 2 loads back to back the Prima V loads were in 1 large ragged hole and the Sport Pistol would open up to around 2 inches. I thought it was me at first but I shot 6 groups alternating between the two loads and the results were consistent. Has anyone else had a similar problem with Sport Pistol or other powder having reduced accuracy? Was there anything that you did that was able to improve the performance without having to switch components? My next thoughts are to try different OALs to see if that will improve as maybe I just got lucky with my initial Prima V load. Or try upping the powder charge a little and see if it improves at a higher velocity. I'm curious what others experience has been so I don't waste trips to the range chasing my tail adjusting something that will likely have no impact on the performance.

I had a similar experience, BBI order was shipped the next day but took usps 3 weeks to deliver. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Did the lighter bullets work better for you than a heavier 115 or 124 grain? I tried some blazer brass 115 grain factory ammo to see if that would be better than my 124's but recoil was much harsher and dot movement was slightly worse.

This is probably the biggest driver of what i'm seeing as I still have much to learn about shooting a rifle fast. I've been actively working on getting away from the more traditional stance and being able to drive the rifle but still have some old habits to break. Shortening the stock definitely has helped but still have to ingrain driving it into the shoulder and clamping down while on the clock. At the end of the day I know no amount of load development is going to make all that much difference in my scores, but the engineer in me can't help but want to optimize the mechanical system as much as possible. Seems like I'm on the right track, how did the hotter 124 grain loads behave? Did going above 3.8 start getting a different dot movement, harsher recoil, etc?

Ever since I built my PCC earlier this year I have not been able to achieve the dot tracking that many here describe. I originally loaded a 124 grain everglades plated bullet to 130 pf (3.2 grains PrimaV) and called it good for load development and have run this load for 1500-2000 rounds without issue. I've seen others here mention that hotter loads worked better so just for kicks I loaded up some test rounds at 3.5 and 3.7 grains and went to the range to shoot pairs. To my surprise the 3.5 was marginally better than 3.2 and 3.7 was significantly better that either of the other loads. Typically I get dot movement up and to the right but at 3.7 the dot tracked straight up and down and returned faster. My question is from your testing what has been the ideal PF to shoot for in your builds? I debating if I should continue tweaking or just leave it at 3.7 grains and call it good, but was curious where I was compared to what others have found as ideal. I don't care about recoil, but am focused on minimizing dot movement. Obviously bolt, buffer, recoil springs will play into this but ideal loads will likely be similar. For reference I have a taccom extreme bolt with the weight installed, taccom 3 stage buffer short stroked, rifle spring that came with the buffer, hiperfire 24C trigger, and MBX barrel with pinned comp.

I second this, the hundo is a tighter than most chambers and most slight failures (not sticking out to the extractor grove) will function just fine. Check them in you barrel and you'll probably see that you're good to go. Bullet diameter can affect this, when loading .356 coated I get 2-3 per hundred that don't sit flush but with .355 plated I might get 1 every 300. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I picked 70 grains of lead out of my comp after the first 250 rounds of coated bullets though my pcc. Decided that was not something I wanted to deal with regularly and switched to everglades plated. Over 1000 rounds later and I have 0 lead in the comp. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I second this, for me polymer gun = 147 grain and steel framed stock 2 = 124. Ultimately one or the other is not going to give you any advantage and comes down to personal preference. Load up both to 130-135 pf try them out and decide for yourself. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Thanks, from reading the rules I figured option one was the appropriate one. I've seen a lot of option 2 at local matches and wanted to double check that I hadn't missed something that explicitly allowed it. I don't want to get complacent with "get away with it at locals" habits that will get me in trouble at a larger match.

This may be a naive question and hopefully not too far off topic but for those with carts when do you load the pcc on the cart upon arrival to the range? Do you take it bagged to a safe table like you would to holster a pistol or load the flagged rifle directly from the car? Thinking of making a cart to not have to carry multiple bags all day and don't want to break any rules. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

While I can't comment on the experience of others, the mbx lightweight barrel has been working great in my build. 1 inch group at 20 yards (without putting a scope on probably the best I can do as a shooter) and a great feel and balance when coupled with a lightweight handguard. Only have about 600 rounds through it so far, but have had 0 malfunctions. Only time will tell it's long term performance but I've been very pleased so far. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Was doing a little reloading last night and I did a quick check of my powder stock and realized i'm down to my last 3lbs of Prima V. PrimaV and PrimaSV seem to be out of stock everywhere from what I can tell. Does anyone have any information on if or when more will be coming into the country? I'll be reaching out to some of the usual suspect suppliers as well to see what they say but figured someone here may have looked into this already.

Qc10 Skeletonized receiver set Mbx lightweight barrel Taccom extreme bolt Taccom buffer short stroked Hiperfire 24c SLR rail Holosun 510C Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I purchased the MBX lightweight barrel on Black Friday for my PCC build. After seeing the previous thread about people having poor accuracy with these barrels I was very concerned that I had purchased a lemon. I was finally able to get my new build out to the range today to sight in and test and am pleased to report that I had nothing but good results. I went to an indoor range and took my standard 9mm minor ammo (125gr BBI TC, 3.5gr PrimaV) and shot 250 rounds with zero malfunctions. I shot a group for accuracy at 20 yards (longest they had) sitting on a stool with the front supported on my range bag and no rear support. Using a Holosun 510C with the brightness turned down to get a more accurate aiming point I was able to shoot a 1 inch 5 shot group which considering the imperfect shooting position and my group shooting skills I thought was very good. The only negative I can speak to after my short experience is that coated bullets are going to be a serious no go with this comp. After only 250 rounds I picked over 70 grains of lead out of the comp and it was smoking like crazy compared to how the exact same load performs in my pistol. Guess I'll have to move to plated or jhp because I definitely don't want to have to dig lead out of the comp after every range trip.

To follow on with this any tips on loads that you guys have seen work well in these barrels? Bullet weight, jacketed vs coated, power factor, ect Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Probably won't be until after new years but ill be sure to report back. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Well crap, I just bought one of these for a new build. Hopefully it was just a bad batch. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Qc10 has 30% off receiver sets and 25% off everything else. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I also get very good consistency with prima v in a dillon powder measure. Never had higher than single digit sd on any load that I've chronoed. It did take a little while to settle when I first set up, but like others have said keep the powder hopper full and you won't have any issues. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

My 650 has been full of powder since I bought it a year and a half ago. Tube gets topped off after every loading session so it's full and ready to go when I come back for the next one. Press is located in a spare bedroom so always climate controlled. Might change my habits if stored in a garage. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I really liked 147's in a plastic gun but when I moved to a stock 2 they felt too sluggish. Moved to 125's and I like how the sights track better. Recoil is slightly more snappy but on the timer I can't tell the difference. At the end of the day it's going to be personal preference, grab a couple sample packs and try them both. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

I've seen this mentioned a lot but with no real context. I see QC10 touted as having the correct angle but don't see anyone mentioning which lowers have the incorrect angle. Do the PSA lowers have a different angle compared to QC10 and as anyone actually measured them to quantify how they're different? This is one of my reasons for asking the question, I have a 5.56 AR built with mostly PSA parts and while they don't have all the bells and whistles they just plain work and were a great value for the money. Like I mentioned before I don't mind paying more to get something that is demonstrably better but I hate paying extra just to have a certain brand's roll mark on the side.

I've been doing research on components for an upcoming PCC build but am struggling to find information on any functional differences between different lowers. For example I see the Quarter Circle 10 lowers recommended fairly frequently and are currently on sale for $225 QC10. On the other hand a guy I shoot with has a Palmetto state armory PCC and has had no issues with it and their lower is only $120 PSA. Are there any functional differences (beyond aesthetics and brand loyalty) between these two lowers? I'm not opposed to paying a premium for for quality parts if they are objectively better but if I can save $105 on the lower and get the same performance I'd rather use that money to upgrade other components of the rifle. The only thing I can tell that is different between the two from their descriptions is the QC10 has a LRBHO and the PSA does not which is not a deal breaker for me.