mrd
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Posts posted by mrd
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1 hour ago, Fasthenk65 said:
Holosun.eu has them but if you're in the USA then Holosun.com. It's listed under accessories. B.t.w., I mounted it 2 weeks ago and feels much better now on a JP...
I'm in EU and have looked at the holosun.eu page, but I've been unable to find it.
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On 10/23/2020 at 3:20 PM, LowSpeedHighDrag said:
I run my 510c with the Holosun spacer to raise the dot to a more comfortable height. You might want to give it a try.
Sorry, but I'm unable to find the spacer you mean, do you have a link?
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13 hours ago, Usernameunkown said:
Where did you get the milling done?
Well, I'm in Sweden, so I don't think the answer would help you much. Sorry.
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If ignition is borderline and you don't have the Titan hammer or Bolo interrupter already (nor the xtreme one piece sear), then you might want to take the extra hassle with fitting the bolo for a Unica hammer instead of the Titan.
I have fitted one Bolo for the Titan and I recently fitted a Bolo for the Unica in my Stock 2. The Unica setup hits the primers harder. The inside arc of the Bolo needed more work with the Unica hammer (I have the v2 trigger bar), otherwise it was the same procedure for me. I took a smidge off the tip of the leg for stronger DA ignition on both, never touched the wing on either Bolo.
I went with the Xtreme sear, the Unica sear had so little movement it was virtually impossible to get the Firing pin block safety to work with it and SA pull was way lighter than my preference.
But the Titan is the safe and proven route, and it does hit the primers harder than the Delta. Pair with the Patriot Defense firing pin spring and their weight of trigger spring that proves most reliable. I run the 15.5 pound spring and did not need to modify it to run fine with the Unica hammer, others have reported coil bind and neede to clip a coil off, but this was not an issue for me.
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The Criterion Core barrels have the most interesting profile to me right now. They taper down to pencil profile slowly, so the mass is where it's needed for best distribution of weight and heat. Should be affected less by heat and still very light. Unfortunately the 16" version is not rifle length gas.
If money is a big concern, cut down what you have or a Faxxon gunner 18".
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7 hours ago, Chillywig said:
Did you ever do any experiments or decide a comp is better than no comp for muzzle rise?
I did some experimenting, but I have moved on to other projects for now. I have the rifle set up the way I want now and the next thing to test is to make a powder ladder and see what load shoots the flattest.
A comp makes a difference, with a 16" barrel the difference is small but noticable. I have had my barrel cut down to 10" now and the rifle shoots softer and the comp works better.
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https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/308-muzzle-brake-test/
Precision Armaments Hypertap and/or APA The Answer might be even better choices, and tuneable.
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11 hours ago, johnbu said:
Oh, the safety lever "bump" had to be trimmed down to allow engagement with the 1 piece sear / Titan hammer combo.
Nice writeup. Just asking for curiosity - isn't it better to fit the sear leg instead of the bumb on the safety? The end result is the same, but the sear is the cheaper part and the modification of the safety might make it incompatible with future hammer changes. I know this after trying to install an Eimantech SA hammer on a gun with modified safety "bump", the safety would never engage with this hammer.
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On 1/12/2021 at 6:04 AM, Farmer said:
See, this is the stuff that drives you crazy!!! I’ve had loads that SHOULD have been one hole groups but weren’t. Others that the sd/es were over 100 were on a dime. Just friggin nuts. I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s a combo of barrel vibrations, me flinching/ farting at the trigger break and the gravitational pull of the moon at the exact instant of ignition.
The target don't lie, I pretty much disregard the SD and just judge by the target. I only use SD to choose between two otherwise identically performing loads.
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Just wanted to follow up that I finally got time to test an initial crude charge weight ladder (0.4 gr powder steps) with these bullets and they worked just fine. Judging from this promising first test they provide more than acceptable accuracy for practice within 100 yards, and excellent price/performance ratio.
Best 5-shot group was ~1.4 MOA. If I can improve this with fine tuning the powder and perhaps seating depth I'll be real happy, but just repeatable ~1.5 MOA would be great considering these are really cheap bullets.
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On 12/23/2020 at 3:25 PM, mpeltier said:
I think you miss understand my point of the barrel nut being of lesser quality. I was more referring to the design. Not all barrel nuts/handguards are created equally and the barrel nut does many things. The most common failure I have seen was the barrel nuts ability to keep the Handguard in place. This was in every case with an aluminum barrel nut. Never actually broken, or failed to secure the barrel. My game gun has a PRI carbon fiber Handguard with an aluminum barrel nut. Not the lightest on the planet but its pretty stout. Ive actually seen a few broken receivers, but every one was from ammo related issues. The barrel nut was of no significance.
I see. The S-one has a rather unique attachment method for the handguard to the barrel nut, it does need loctite but once loctited I've not had any problems.
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9 hours ago, Silver_Surfer said:
I never seen or heard of a barrel nut fail once installed. The only non-moving barrel related part I seen fail was the gas tube where it meets the gas block.
Me neither. One other reason I don't see any cons of making the nut aluminum.
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5 hours ago, mpeltier said:
I would never use a less strong barrel nut, or less desirable Handguard, here just for the sake of weight savings. Too many other more productive areas to shave weight than compromising on the barrel nut.
I might be wrong about this, but I think there is a point to not having a too strong barrel nut - as long as it does the job. The barrel nut connects to the upper receiver. The aluminum upper receiver. If stressed one of them will break before the other and I'd prefer the barrel nut to break before the upper.
I also prefer a lighter rifle to a heavier rifle, all else being equal. I get the point of going for the lowest hanging fruit, but I was at the point in the process where the barrel nut was next in line. I was improving on a rifle I already had, with a medium profile 16.5" barrel, so quite front heavy. If I would build a new rifle from scratch, I would probably just have used a lighter barrel and called it a day.
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I do have an aluminium nut for it that, but I've only been using it for about half a year. From what I can tell it works as well as the steel one, just 2.5 oz lighter. I have a 16.5" barrel, also medium profile. My rifle is still a bit front heavy, balance point just front of magwell.
I'm running rifle length gas with the 15" S-one. If you're running intermediate gas you should probably consider getting the 12" S-one. it's actually more like 12.65" if memory serves. The S-one has sort of a space for the gas block in the front and the 15" seems to match the position of the gas block for a rifle length gas system. As I said, even with a really slim gas block there is not much wiggle room. You can pretty much forget any m-lok add-ons around the gas block.
I like the ergonomics of the S-one better than any other handguard I've tried, and with the aluminum nut the weight is really good too. If it holds up and doesn't get bent like Franklys, I'm a happy camper. If it breaks I'll look for something similar but stronger.
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If trying to shave weight from a rifle, 4 oz in weight savings from one single part is quite significant in my book. Especially from the front end, where the weight feels the most.
However, most of the weight in the Aero S-one is from the steel barrel nut. If you really like the profile you can have a machinist make an aluminum barrel nut for it. I really like my S-one, but there are some quirks with it. You need a REALLY slim gas block for it. And loctite the clap screw.
The balance and weight of the rifle will be mostly determined by what barrel profile you choose.
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16 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:
You seem determined to confuse what works for muzzle dip (light slides, reduced weight recoil springs) with a somewhat magical reduction in recoil. There is no free lunch, forces must balance.
It is interesting to consider barrel weight's effect on felt recoil. While slide to barrel is initially locked the barrel should effectively act as a slide weight and then the barrel momentum should transfer to the frame through the barrel link & etc.
You're right, I do consider the muzzle dip as part of the recoil impulse. I think of recoil more in the terms of how much the sight picture is disturbed than how much force is transfered into the shooter. Sorry if this was cause for confusement, english is not my native language.
18 hours ago, yigal said:In your formula you did not take into account the losses due to friction, heat differences and a million other small factors.
No, I mostly just wanted to account for the stationary mass working to stabilize the gun and counter-acting on the moving mass of the slide. If you think I'm nitpicking, well sure, but was I really first to do so? I said coming into the discussion that the practical differences were small, I'm well aware they are.
Let's keep it nice, civil and respectful. Thanks.
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On 11/24/2020 at 11:43 PM, IHAVEGAS said:
Not sure about that.
On the way back, F=M*A, so you can have less mass and more speed or more mass and less speed but you have to counteract the same force either way.
For dip on slide closure I think the you are right.
F=M*A is less than half the truth. First, muzzle flip is a factor of the ratio between the moving force of the slide AND the stationary mass of the barrel and frame. Second, the mass of the slide has to be balanced with matching springs for optimal recoil reduction, you seem to have assumed the spring is constant.
Just look at all limited guns. Do you see any that are made with heavier slides? No, the race guns have slide cuts and even slides that are shortened, to make the moving mass less.
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On 11/20/2020 at 3:03 AM, FALAR said:
I never understood the argument that the bull barrel is heavier. To make room for the thicker barrel, material is removed from the slide.
I compared the weight of my Stock III and Limited Custom. Both upper assemblies are within a few tenths of an oz of each other, just one has more in the barrel and the other the slide.
Now if you're in the "less slide mass is better camp" then the bull barrel dies give you that----same weight up front but with a lighter slide.
Exactly, this is also a valid point - to the advantage of the bull barrel. You want the weight to be stationary like in the barrel, the moving weight in the slide actually adds to recoil. So less weight in the slide and more weight in the front of the barrel means win-win for softer recoil and less muzzle flip.
Less slide mass IS better for recoil. A heavy slide feeds better though and is less sensitive for dirt etc.
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On 9/12/2019 at 10:49 PM, kurtm said:
I'm I'm pretty sure ol R.T. mentioned the Lantac is compatible with his suppressor so I'm thinking he will stay with it.
As it stands....having tried a bunch, is for a duty type brake the MZLMAX is far superior to the other duty type brakes......but it doesn't mount a can!
kurtm, have you tried the Precision Armament AFAB and/or EFAB? If so, what are your impressions, and how do they compare to the MZLMAX?
Sorry for the necropost!
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18 hours ago, CZ85Combat said:
Your at the upper end of OAL, try 1.140"
What makes you say this? His rounds passes his plunk test and he's using 145 grain bullets that are generally quite long, so plenty of bullet in the case.
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On 11/17/2020 at 6:46 PM, IHAVEGAS said:
Me either.
Les Baer guarantees everything to do a 3" group at 50 yards and for an adder 1.5" at 50 , so the bull is not about practical accuracy in a pistol.
Maybe longevity?
The advantage of the bull barrel is mostly to build more static weight out front, helps with recoil. Also, the cone lockup makes for a tight fit and helps accuracy, but a well fitted straight barrel locks up just as tightly and will be just as accurate. Key words are "well fitted", not every barrel is.
The weight out front also makes for a more nose-heavy gun, which is not for everyone, even though it does tame recoil and muzzle flip.
In practice, the differences are small. But given a choice, I'll go with the bull barrel. Every bit helps.
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I'm sorry to rain on CZ's parade, but I kinda feel that CZ dropped the ball on this one. Very slight improvements over the original TS.
What would really have taken the TS to the next level is a bull barrel and a lightened slide, but I guess CZ saves this for TS 3 and TS 4. Until then the TS will stand in the shadow of 2011 and Tanfoglio Limited Custom, IMHO.
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I had feeding problems with the original Tanfoglio mags, made by ACT-mag, with hollow points. I swapped to Mec-gar and have had no problems since. I regard Mec-gar as very high quality mags. They have not had the same wear as the ACT-mags at the hole for the mag release either.
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I did some testing today after taking the last weight out of my carbine buffer. Was not able to turn the gas down, but that was quite expected, still recoil seemed a tad softer. Then did some testing between the Strike Industries flat wire spring and the clipped carbine spring I was using. The flat wire spring seemed smoother and slightly less recoil, though it was close so I can't be sure. Left the flat wire spring in there.
I could clip a coil or two from the flat wire spring and have a two-piece delrin buffer made, like Taccoms ultra light weight (which can't be bought over here). But the empty buffer only weighs an ounce as is, so not much to be gained there and rifle is damn smooth as is. Not sure I'll bother any more.
PCC Specific triggers and rifle primers
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
With hiperfire competition/24/eclipse you don't need to worry about primers no more, even hard military primers go boom.