uhmeebuh
-
Posts
166 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by uhmeebuh
-
-
59 minutes ago, dapribek said:
I’d go with a milled 17. Dot will be a little lower which is ideal. I shot a couple of 34s for years and I think that was a mistake.
Thanks for the feedback - can you share a bit more on what the mistake was with the 34? -
Hi all -
I’m a middling A class shooter who shoots mostly LO with a steel 2011. I’ve liked the challenge of the lighter polymer striker guns and wanted to stick with Glock as a G26 is my main CCW.
So, I wanted some advice from Glock team about what the consensus is on the optimal for a CO/LO Glock with the current roster available to us. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to these to test or compare side by side.
- G34 MOS - don’t need the long slide with a dot, may be too slow of a slide but shoots soft so less dot movement
- G47 MOS - shorter recoil spring and heavy-ish slide may not be ideal…or maybe the goldilocks
- G17 milled for an optic - longer recoil system and lighter slide might be the best fit but no MOS option anymore (can’t get through GSSF from any of my local dealers).- G45 MOS - slight loss of velocity to meet PF but faster slide may be great
I can train around any of it but wanted to make the right choice to start.
Thanks!
-
10 hours ago, WxGuy said:
Nice review. Does your SF have a red dot or irons when running this guide rod system?
I run a 507 comp on my competition guns - too hard to find plates (if any) for the romeo 3 XL and just not a fan of the SRO any more due to cost and too small of a dot. Nothing wrong with either - used both for many seasons. I'm giving the 507 a shot and liking the big window, easier to change battery, and larger "dot" (I run the horseshoe only). As with all of this YMMV ;-)
-
After having two Q5 SFs, I decided to pick up a PDP SF and give it a shot. My LGS made me a deal I couldn’t say no to and the usual set of upgrades started….and didn’t go all that well IMO.
The same recoil spring issues are present with the PDP SF that were on the Q5 SF - as you lower the spring weight, the lock up tension is so low that it doesn’t stay in battery well and caused a few issues. I tried the various lighter trigger and striker springs with no luck. I liked the PDP SF more than the Q5 SF but these same issues due to the short recoil spring were disappointing.
I noticed the PDP SF slide has a plastic insert that could be removed so I tried a few old recoil guide rod and spring combos but none fit the guide rod hole. I gave up for a few days and saw a Velox training video that referenced a “long stroke” guide rod. Sounded sexy so I looked it up and sure enough, ZRTS makes a captive, long stroke guide rod, spring setup.
A few days later it was in my hands and it’s awesome - really changes the impulse in a better way, is finally a more appropriate spring rate for low power factor ammo, and has a much better lock up.
I assume some sort of adapter ring will open up non-captive guide rod/spring options but the ZRTS is a good all in one solution. I have a buddy that I’ll chat with about making a 3D printed option.
I’m curious how it will age but only one way to find out!
-
On 6/23/2023 at 9:45 PM, k2pichu said:
I run Blazer Brass 115 with a 70 locker. It's cheap, reliable, and accurate enough. Supervel 115 worked well in my JP, but my pistol had a few issues with that so I just use Blazer 115 for both for simplicity. Blazer 124 and Supervel 124 grouped slightly worse for my gun so I just stuck with 115's.
This has been my experience too:Started with 150 Syntech with a 60* locker but it wasn’t softer than 115 from blazer or supervel with the 70* (and the 150 Su techs cost a lot more). The BB115s didn’t lock back or eject consistently with the 60*.
I personally like the 115 for the faster speed compared to the heavier loads. I could get 5 BB 115s rounds to all touch at 25 yards with them and that was plenty good for me.
-
On 6/6/2023 at 4:17 PM, Boomstick303 said:
The MRO has some serious parallax issues. Especially the Gen 1 version. They fixed it some with the Gen 2 but a buddy used it on an AR for some testing and hated it. I would play around with the MRO and see if it works for you, but if you find you are not making the hits you expect maybe choose a different option.
As far as mags go, Glocks are all and many other PCC shooters use. I know some that use the MBX mags, and they like them a lot, but you pay a lot more for those. I have asked the MBX mag users if they have had any issues with those mags and none of them have.
If you go with Magazine extensions on the Glock mags understand that some manufacturers have ammo OAL limits for their extensions to work properly. For instance, Taran Tactical extensions I use should not be used with and OAL over 1.150 or you can start having some feeding issues.
A couple of things to keep in mind. There are a bunch of threads about Glock mags and PCC use on the forum.
I agree on all accounts above with senior Boomstick (and usually do!) except on the MRO - run what you got to get started and you can get something later as you learn what you need, want, and prefer. Just like with your 2011s there’s a lot to account for your preference and skills.
While the MRO parallax issues are real, I haven’t seen them to be an issue for “normal” PCC distances which rarely go past 40 yards and most are 15-25 yards. I found the MRO issues to be highlighted past 50 yards for precision shots on the edges of the glass.
I run an MRO HD (which admittedly has the least amount of parallax in the MRO line) and have specifically tested it at the edges for POA vs POI issues and couldn’t distinguish my s#!tty “user issues” from a parallax issue. I’m no pro but shoot NRL, PRS, and 3 gun and couldn’t replicate any issues within 50 yards. So, could it be an issue - yes. Is it likely to be an issue at speed - no, not in my opinion. And as you’re getting started, your optic won’t likely be the limiting factor.
And, as of course, YMMV
-
Thank you! I think I have a couple from my old CO P320. I’ll give them a try….
-
I’d call Atlas and talk to Randy (who’s awesome) who can try to diagnose over the phone. If that doesn’t work open a ticket and they will take care of it.
Until then, I would take a look to see if there’s anything keeping the magazine from going all the way in….it seems it may be causing the feeding issue (and potentially the extraction issue). But it sounds odd - not obvious what’s causing it…
-
Hi all - I tried the rune follower and it would shift into the breech on the last round causing a malfunction everytime.
I don’t see any other options for a few extra rounds - any luck shaving down the factory follower for an extra round?
Thanks!
-
On 4/21/2023 at 10:10 AM, Cuz said:
This kind of stuff has me wondering why I keep renewing my USPSA membership and RO certification. I only shoot local matches where none of them matter.
I actually think this is a larger issue - there are no real or similar competing organizations for our attention and dollars. While I like the recent IDPA changes, it’s still a far cry from USPSA and IPSC. One-off matches are out there but are far from the norm and lack the consistency that USPSA provides.
Without a need to be/do better for fear of losing the shooter base, I don’t see a reason for the BOD to satisfactorily resolve the current structural and political issues.
-
While my SROs have been reliable, there are a number of things I didn’t like:
- Lots of fisheye - had more parallax than expected at the edge. Addressable by making sure the dot is in the center but takes time and not always possible in some positions.
- Double dot in certain sun angles (as mentioned above) - cost me some points on a couple matches but I shouldn’t have taken those shots and that’s on me.
- Ejection issues on some guns (as mentioned above) - had some issues with ejected rounds getting caught between the SRO and slide causing some malfunctions. Fixed some some ammo and spring changes on most guns (but some just couldn’t run the SRO).
- Dumb ass battery cap - better than and RMR but made of super flimsy aluminum that is way to easy to cross thread (and mark up). Almost always scratched the shroud every time and no good tools available. Luckily the SRO has good battery life but I dread having to change them.
I moved to the sig optics (R3 XL) on my comp guns and haven’t had any issues (yet). It’s probably just a matter of time before I have issues but two have over 15k rounds in them - so far so good. On my defense guns, I’ve moved to holosun (508T, 509T, and the EPS series) and have had no issues. I have intentionally murdered two of them to test them out and was impressed (beat, dropped, hammered, drove over, etc). Waiting on the holosun competition model to hit the market and will likely give it a go.
-
5 hours ago, jlewis39 said:
Well, my MC9 went back to CenturyArms this week for warranty repair.
I purchased it on 3/4/23 (serial number: 22CT005xx). Using the two magazines that came with the gun, I was having failures every time I went to the range with it: failures to fully enter battery, failures to feed, failures to fire (trigger pulled but no primer strike), light strikes, etc. I had cleaned/lubed the gun thoroughly several times. I had locked the slide open for awhile. I had left the striker cocked for awhile. I had loaded the magazines for awhile. The usual break-in processes. Nothing seemed to help correct the failures.
I eventually took pictures of the failures and sent them off to CenturyArms customer service. They asked that I send the gun back to them for examination, emailing me a FedEx shipping label. I guess we'll see what they find.
I'm pretty disappointment and frustrated, to say the least. I have two SFx's (my primary competition guns) and a Rival DarkSide which have been absolutely flawless. So, I was expecting the same quality and performance from this little MC9. I will say that when the MC9 actually functioned properly, I really enjoyed it: accurate, good trigger (at least for my small hands), and comfortable grip and recoil. I'm hopeful CenturyArms can get something figured out to correct these issues. I really want this gun to be a viable EDC option, but it was entirely too UNreliable in its current state.
What did you find was the problem?I have an MC9 and haven’t had any issues (well, yet after 800 rounds) but I’m aware of the extractor spring tension issues that may have caused this.
-
I’ve had most of the Atlas line at this point and the Artemis is my LO gun of choice (you know, until something cooler that won’t help my scores comes around).
I prefer the Artemis feel and speed compared to the Titan but it’s really splitting hairs. On the clock no difference so if money is tight, the Titan is a great choice (even with the recent price increase). I’ve had two Athena’s and it never quite connected with me. I think I prefer my steel frame staccato P to it at this point.
I’m not a big believer in the “perfect zero” Atlas claim part as it’s relative to your grip strength and ammo used IMO. But I have found the Artemis is more forgiving with an imperfect or inconsistent grip as you run a stage.
Now for home defense and range toy use, I’d get two guns: get a Titan for LO and a Staccato C2 or P for general use.
-
1 minute ago, HOGRIDER said:
After visiting MPA, I feel confident you could request a swap to the Aluminum grip. They are very accommodating......
You could probably just order one of the "regular" DS 9 Hybrids and pick the setup you want....but I like the lack of front sight on this model.
I also think the AL grip and a steel magwell is the way to go for a 2011 setup to keep it well balanced but light enough. -
I look forward to sucking just as hard as I did in CO with a more expensive gun
-
I did the same - installed an SD3G and radian safeties and it's run flawlessly from reloads, to factory stuff to some steel ammo just to see how it handles it. At least so far....been a few thousand round with minimal cleaning. So...we'll see?
-
6 minutes ago, echotango said:
Well money talks. He sells a kit without his trigger specifically so you can use a Keres/AC. C.O.R.E. kit
Nice - I didn't know that
I have a kit from him with a tuned flat legion trigger which is now too sloppy and introduced some issues (after 10k rounds). I then moved to his curved trigger which took a bit of adjustment but I like it better now than my straight triggers...
I like that he supports other triggers - his set of parts is really a nice upgrade for the whole trigger system (safety bar, sear, striker, etc).
-
21 minutes ago, echotango said:
He does make one that you use your own Keres/AC trigger. Not sure what he has.
From my chats with Robert (who's great and accessible for those who don't know) he said he doesn't like mixing/matching triggers as it impacts the safety and action.
But maybe that's changed with the newest versions?
-
I’ve tried them all and think the new sig armorer kit with the curved trigger is,
by far, the best. I had a custom one done by him and the new kit is even better.
-
On 11/28/2022 at 3:35 PM, Boomstick303 said:
I have never liked how any of my Sig P320s run with springs under 14 lbs.
I have thought about cutting a couple of coils once I have the time to watch the gun in slowmo. What 14 # spring are you running? Which guide rod are you running in your current setup. Are you running normal or Brass Lok Grips?
Atlas has indicated they feel the shorter barrel is the way to go with the 9mm caliber, which I am seeing some validity to in my limited testing.
I use the longer legion 5" 14lb springs and cut a couple coils off to find a good balance of lock up, speed and muzzle dip for my grip strength. I also run the normal steel guide rod but have been meaning to test a shorter tungsten guide rod just to see how it does. I've been moving to shorter and lighter in my pistol as my transition speed and footwork has picked up. I'm a bigger dude so some of the normal issues are just replaced with new/different ones
The guy I used to made a custom TXG grip has decided to stop doing it...so I learned how to countour, match finishes, add silicon carbide, and add palm swells. I tried the AXG grip but didn't like a hot spot under the trigger guard for my XL hands and how short it was for reloads.
I have a few Atlas' and have had most of them the return to zero is mostly true and one of the reasons I moved to the shorter pro cut slide. I found my transitions were faster with the lighter front end than my Max slide, the slide was faster, and the return to zero was about the same as the longer/heavier slide. Still can't beat a compensated barrel though!
-
On 11/25/2022 at 11:24 AM, fireman1776 said:
Thanks. I priced out an AXG conversion kit and it's basically the cost of the entire gun with the FCU. I was debating trying the axg lower with my x5 5" upper but I hadn't heard any reports on it.
I took advantage of the black friday sales to pick up an AXG pro for under $1k and will sell the AXG grip. That was the only way the money math made sense to me as well.
While I really like the AXG with the palm swell LOK grips, I've learned how to contour and apply silicon carbide to the TXG grip so that's my huckleberry
19 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:Yes. I am curious as to how it runs vs 5" barrel variants. I am trying to get my P320 Platform as close to my Athena as I can, too keep handling/indexing the guns as close as possible. It seems to be working with what I have created. I have yet to test stuff back to back, or on the clock. That will come in the next month to see how they stack up.
I have both the 5" max slide and the 4.7 pro cut and they are within an ounce of each other. My buddies (many of whom also shoot P320s) like the shorter slide like I do - it's less nose heavy, swings better, is a bit faster, and is pretty damn nice... I have found you need the 14lb spring and to cut some coils off to find the right balance of speed, muzzle dip, and preference. The 12lb was too light IMO - it wouldn't stay in battery well enough.
-
4 hours ago, fireman1776 said:
Are you running the axg pro 4.7” slide?
I know it's not directed at me AND it's not what this thread is about BUT....
I'm running the AXG pro slide 4.7" instead of the Max slide 5.0" and I like it better. The slide only weighs an ounce or so less but the balance is better IMO and it's a bit faster. I like how it swings better as well with less barrel and guide rod in the front. I'm curious about even shorter/ lighter/ faster slides but will run this for the next season and see how I feel about it then.
-
On 11/21/2022 at 8:56 AM, uhmeebuh said:
I get my drop-in TSA trigger kit today for one of my p320s. I'm very curious how it will work.
I’ll be able to compare it to a hand done/non-drop in kit fit by Robert himself with an early version of his strikers before they were released.
I haven’t liked the GG kits or the various versions with the keres trigger. My current TSA hand done kit is much better than any other p320 trigger I’ve tried. It’s shorter, crisper, and faster than my other attempts at a good trigger.
Verdict time - it’s great! Even better than the hand done one Robert did for me which I considered the pinnacle of a P320 trigger. I have tried all the other options (GG, Apex, AC, Keres and others) and they don’t compare IMO.
All the slop on my original trigger (after ~12k rounds and a lot of dry fire) is gone and the break is significantly better. Not as good as a PPQ with a Dynamic trigger but very good. One buddy said it was closer to a 2011…but I wouldn’t go quite that far. It’s still a P320 after all
The new sear and safety lever are much tighter fit and you can feel it in the break. I notice less vertical movement in the slide when dry firing but that may be just my bias.
I went with the -10% sear springs and the +20% trigger spring since I like a strong reset. It resulted in a ~5lb break which is ~1.5lb heavier than my well broken in trigger. Some of the weight is my spring selection, some is that the springs are new, but I think some of it is the shorter curved trigger.
I really didn’t like the curved trigger at first - mostly because it’s different than the flat trigger and I have a lot of rounds through the flat triggers. The curved trigger puts the finger up a bit higher which likely contributes to some of the heavier feel. It’s also a bit of a tight curve so there’s really only one place for your finger - not like any of the hybrid curved triggers out there. It’s got a wide flat face otherwise and it feels good.
But my splits were the same the first time out and I didn’t notice the trigger curve at all when actually firing. So, it’s likely that it’s just different and not anything that impacted my shooting. And…now I really like the trigger so much ado about nothing.
TLDR; it’s very good, removes almost all of the slop, it’s worth the price IMO. -
I get my drop-in TSA trigger kit today for one of my p320s. I'm very curious how it will work.
I’ll be able to compare it to a hand done/non-drop in kit fit by Robert himself with an early version of his strikers before they were released.
I haven’t liked the GG kits or the various versions with the keres trigger. My current TSA hand done kit is much better than any other p320 trigger I’ve tried. It’s shorter, crisper, and faster than my other attempts at a good trigger.
Which Glock for CO/LO in 2024?
in Glock
Posted · Edited by uhmeebuh
I’m finding I like the fast slides so I’m leaning away from the 34. Which leaves the 17/47 or 45 - any preference in return to zero or recoil impulse?