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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by rootacres

  1. RHT . . Ive had both, no comparison.
  2. Trijicon SRO probably, the vortex venom is a great bang for the buck. Thats what I have used for years.
  3. My experience with the factory extractor and a variety of recoil springs is that yes your RDS will have some collisions.
  4. Im slowly learning to play the game to my strengths and weaknesses, or at least try. At club matches I sometimes try to push in certain areas to improve and learn. But when Im in a major I try to shoot my match. I try to identify where I feel I can gain points and hit the gas. There are also stages where its best to shoot conservatively, avoid disaster factors and move onto the next. Most people winning these matches do so by being consistent and not making mistakes. Not by burning down and taking 1st on every stage.
  5. It took me a long time for me to realize that a relatively bare bones gun with good sights and a slight trigger adjustment will allow you to burn it down at most levels of USPSA. Used guns and gear in most cases for me have been favorable (granted most my guns were purchased new). Ive shot production for most my matches (currently a master) and most of it has been done with a Glock. Far from a flashy "race" gun, but a few springs, and good sights made it work. Ive saved some money buying used mags and putting good springs in them. My Dillon RL550B press paid for itself the first year of shooting. I use a cheap tumblr and rarely change the media, I don't need my brass squeaky clean, I just need it to run in the gun and I spray Hornady One Shot on everything lol. I shoot titegroup because its cheap and is consistent enough to make PF anytime. Buy primers in bulk when you can. I have car pooled to matches. I do participate in The Blue Bullets sponsorship program, so taking 1st at club matches adds up and winning the WI Sectional last year covered the cost of ~3k bullets.
  6. Production here, so you pretty much have to count shots. I usually try to find ways in a stage to eliminate positions. As I gained experience I realized I was able to trouble shoot on the fly when I made mistakes/misses by remembering where mag change positions where. . Sometimes even what plan B was lol. Turning a big stage bomb into just a slightly slower run.
  7. This will be my 4th season now playing the USPSA game. I found myself early on trying to chase the faster guys and causing a lot of problems. Over time I tried to catch things they were doing differently to help me improve. I made Master in Production half way through last season and the biggest takeaway I learned from the faster guys, and it took me a long time to realize this, is that what really starts separating people is what they are doing when the gun isn't going off. Footwork, mag changes, entries, exits etc. Keep shooting with the better shooters. They will teach you far more and will help push the limits of your capabilities.
  8. Personally I like the OCC triggers with their extractor housing. It gives you the option of eliminating pre travel, post travel, and getting rid of the uncomfortable trigger safety tab all while maintaining a factory trigger shoe.
  9. The TTI base pads are pretty nice. They have tool less disassembly and so far can handle a beating.
  10. Ive seen a few posts about this recently, bumping it too the top to see if it helps.
  11. I can do ya one better lol. I went Glock to Tanfo back to Glock then dabbled again with my Tanfo and ultimately went back to Glock. When shooting minor there is much to be said about what feels familiar being that the recoil isn't much.
  12. The sight radius is obviously a non issue but the added velocity of the G34 vs the G17 is marginal but is still relevant. Plus If you decide to run the same pistol in production I believe you would much prefer a G34 or G17.
  13. Just swap it out with an ISMI 13lb spring. Sending rounds into battery shouldn't be an issue neither should getting the gun to cycle completely.
  14. Basically what the title states. I am looking at dabbling in some limited and would like to use a frame weight or light on my pistol for some added weight. What is everyone using?
  15. Hello All, I acquired a RO Elite in 9mm that I intend on using for single stack. It appears the lowest I am able to get the factory trigger down to with a 17lb main spring is just north of 3lbs. What kit are you all using to get the pull weights down to that 2lb range while maintaining a decent level of reliability?
  16. I have a SA RO Elite with a Dawson ICE Magwell (with gap) and am looking for some better basepads that will have a more positive seat. What is everyone using?
  17. I sent CZC a message asking when the bull shadow would make the cut and they couldn't give me a definitive answer on time frame. Getting a 75 frame would allow me to purchase the slide assembly down the road if I wanted to.
  18. So Ive narrowed it down a little bit. I am between these 2 for my new production gun. I am coming from a G34 and Stock 2. I really like the weight of the Accu Shadow Lite, I like the sight radius of the LS-P. Im not stranger to throwing around a 42oz+ gun with the Stock 2. Both of these would give me the option to shoot some CO with too. Whats everyones thoughts?
  19. So I am a master class production shooter that has also dabbled in CO. I am taking a serious look into single stack for next year. I like tinkering with things (especially gun related) and a 1911 is like an adult tinker toy. With the surging popularity in 9mm SS guns that may be the route I go (may go for a 40/45 too). If I shot SS minor it would basically be the equivalent of shooting production with a nicer gun. I was hoping some of you that have shot in both would be able to give me an idea on which one you liked more? Thanks in advance.
  20. Yeah, every time I start trying to drop the pull weight on Glocks I use a skeletolized striker. I just ordered a lightweight titanium striker for one of my 34s. Thanks for the info.
  21. Would a 4lb Wolff spring yield similar pull weights to a ZEV 2lb? Just curious, I didn't know they all differed from one another so much (advertised weight vs actual). Or would a Wolff 3lb be better?
  22. Intersting, I know a had another glock 34 in past and had similar results to yours. I too landed on the V4 connector for that gun, with this G34 its the complete opposite. I wonder if the hook on the strikers are slightly different from brand to brand. That would probably contribute to different trigger feel.
  23. Hello all, I have been wondering this for a while and decided to test some things out. I have accumulated a few of the popular connectors and thought Id share my results. This entire test was done with the exact same Glock 34 and all the parts listed below. The only part that was changed on all these test was the connector (captain obvious). This was interesting to me, thought it may be interesting to you too. Gun: Glock 34 Gen 4 w/ ~6k rounds Parts: Zev 2lb striker spring Zev reduced power FPB spring TiN skeletolized striker Factory Trigger Return Spring Polished FPB OCC Trigger Note: The OCC trigger I use is a polished factory trigger bar with the "enhanced" shoe (same as a OEM shoe with a more comfortable safety tab). This trigger has the pre travel eliminator which I believe aids in getting more consistent trigger pulls on the gauge. I also have to overtravel ejector housing installed. Trigger Results (5 pulls w/ Lyman digital gauge) 1) TTI Minus connector (5k rounds) - 2lb 10oz avg. 2) Glock Minus Connector (new) - 2lb 13oz avg. 3) Zev V4 Race (1k rounds) - 3lb avg. 4) Glock Factory (off a sub 1k round G17) - 3lb 8oz avg. Summary - Surprise I have been a big fan of the TTI since I bought it and knew that it would be close in pull weight to my Zev V4. Something to consider in addition to pull weights is how crisp/spongy the break is. The nature of the Glock design does not lend itself well to having a clean sharp break. That being said, the TTI and minus connector had the least spongy break of the group, with the glock factory connector coming in 2nd and the Zev coming in 4th. The Zev is easily has the spongiest break of the lot. The surprise of the group was how well the factory minus connector did. Truth be told, if you want a good trigger without spending much cash, buy a Zev completion spring kit and a skeletolized striker. Call it a day. Any questions on how I did the test please let me know.
  24. So I have read about different OALs for Stock 2s and what works/doesn't. Here is my question, my gun has ran fine for about 2k rounds at 1.118-1.122, if I was to go to say 1.155 and my gun fed everything reliably what is the harm in pushing the boundary on a longer OAL if the gun feeds/ejects everything reliably? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I've done the plunk test with my 1.122 rounds and the bullet spins just fine. Tried a 1.155 to see what would happen, case gauge and battery test was good but the bullet doesn't spin freely when dropped in the barrel.
  25. What do you all think is the best? I know there are some good options in the plastic pistol world and the CZ offerings. What do you all think is best and why? Thanks
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