pete627
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Posts posted by pete627
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1 minute ago, shred said:
When did the P change from Practical? I missed that.
I'm just being sarcastic ... When I read that "Firearm" was now being used throughout the book (instead of handgun/rifle/long gun/etc) I blacked out ...
I an ashamed I haven't gotten over this yet ...
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Wait??!? So now it is USFSA instead of USPSA??!?
overview quote - “Firearm” replaces handgun and PCC in the rules, except in specific instances where the word handgun or PCC is required for clarity and specificity.
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In my Para 5 inch ... loading .400 plated I have no problem past 1.18 but "one time" I bought some .401's ... (think they were Bayou's) and had to reseat them down to 1.16.
Anything longer stuck in the rifling.
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When I first started w/ my 5" Para I was in the same boat and bought a bunch of Blazer Brass (plated) 180's ... they were only 1.125 long (OAL) but worked OK.
For me they chronoed at 997 ... making 179pf.
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Here is the Hogue short on my 627 ... Two pictures to show the position of the release with the cylinder open and closed.
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33 minutes ago, mhuxtable said:
I will check that out! Thank you. Admittedly I'm not completely fluent in how all the inner workings of a pistol interact totally. So things like this are helpful.
If it WERE touching the trigger bar for some reason, how could that be remedied?
It's odd really. It only did it about 5 times in 130 rounds. But that's about once per mag & that's too much.
You can just bend the bar slightly. You will see ... Just take the slide off ... put a mag in and pull the trigger and you can see what is going on.
There are lots of photos and videos on these things ... from Apex and like this one (link below) (is a good example to see what it looks like in there so you will feel comfortable taking a look). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP4e1ZvI4GY
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18 hours ago, mhuxtable said:
> snip <
Is this a magazine issue? or something unrelated and cooincidental?
> snip <Soooooooo ... if you try a magazine w/o the extension does the trigger reset OK??
I am only asking ... because ... the extension (base pad) may be allowing the magazine to seat at a different height than it did previously. If you remove the slide and insert a magazine you can see how close it comes to the trigger bar ...
IMHO ... If the magazine is "NOW" touching the trigger bar it could prevent it from moving freely and easily cause the problem you are describing.
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Well ... I'm pretty sure I received something earlier (before the June announcement) that requested nominations/write-ins ... but ... it sounds like you should probably just go ahead and contact IRS immediately.
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I am a member and in June received notification of 2 year terms for Board of Directors beginning July 1st.
This notification included the following statement - "Since there was no opposition for any elected position and no conflict within the bylaws, ICORE was able to dispense with a formal vote."
I also received a "Cylinders Turn" in August (electronic/email).
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The price certainly is right and I really like the feel (took about a month to show up!!). Now with the Production rule change I can finally put an AEK trigger on too.
I am surprised they made them available. Here is a picture of it on my 5 inch Core.
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You don't have to buy a 2.0 to have a 2.0 grip.
Back in July I received an email from Smith and Wesson offering the 2.0 grip panels to put on my 1.0. I purchased a Black M2.0 Small Palmswell SKU: 3005811 and a Black M2.0 Frame Tool SKU: 3005817. I really didn't need the frame tool ... that is the twist in thing at the bottom of the grip but the new one twists in much easier so it was a win win.
Besides ... both of these together cost me $7 ... with shipping and tax the whole deal was $13 ... AND ... I will admit that the new "Palmswell" is grippier than the super duper stippled one I was using.
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5 minutes ago, mpeltier said:
Its a slide stop on the 1.0 as well. Not my definition but S&W's. Just read the manual. Your 1911 doesn't auto forward does it? non of mine do. Not trying to single you out if it seems that way, but relying on auto forwarding could be a bit of a bad habit in my opinion.
> snip <
OK ... I appreciate your input and your opinion.
IMHO ... if I release the slide either by slingshot or by pressing down on a button (a button on the side of the gun that is preventing the slide from moving forward) as I position my weak hand and re-establish my aim ... AND ... a round doesn't chamber ... I would fix the gun ... something is wrong with it.
If it "ever" failed to chamber a round at slide release (either way) I would worry at which time it might decide not to do so during regular operation.
It is very rare for me to go to slide lock. I do not include slide lock reloads in any stage plan (I think the IDPA folks may have to). If it does happen (for what ever reason) and I have to use two hands to get the gun closed or I accidentally launch the magazine over a wall or something then I will probably show clear and take a miss.
IMHO ...
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You're absolutely correct ... I agree ... on the 2.0 it is indeed a slide stop.
Every once in a while ... shooting production or steel ... and not making that last shot/plate and needing just one more my 1.0 has saved my butt ... I've even got a chuckle once when someone said "hey!! did you reload??" It didn't take two hands. If it had not slammed closed I would have simply slid the slide release down with my thumb as I moved my weak hand into position (as I would do with a 1911).
It hasn't happened a lot ... If I shot a toe off for every time it has happened I could probably still wear tennis shoes .
I try to always count .. plan my stages well etc etc ... but somehow a shoot to slide lock will sneak in there sometimes ... I think it goes with the game.
I appreciate your insights ... but yes .. that is exactly why I quit looking at them.
Thanks ...
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Here is a quickie photo of one with the lid on ... These are cheap ... require no talent/skill to create and allow easy access w/ doing a great job of protecting your clips (IMHO anyhow ... ).
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I use old CD containers. They come in different heights if you want more rows or use different OAL ammo. I drill a hole in the top and then I can put the stem base in from either side but usually use the open side up and put a regular 5 inch plastic top on them. It is easy to carry two or three in your range bag.
There are 7 clips on each level ... At the range I take the first level and put it on my belt ... remove the blank CD (used as a platform to enforce stacking and protect the primers).
When I shoot a stage I return and pull fresh clips from the bottom layer ... as I do I put the spent clips in their place. When the bottom layer has 7 spend clips I put the buffer CD on top of them and start filling the top ... when the case is full I put the plastic lid on to protect the clips (and proceed to the next container).
Used to use taller cases when I shooting 38 specials ... cheap to buy in bulk. 3 cases in your bag will do a whole steel challenge match ... a couple will easily do a regular USPSA/ICORE match.
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Well .. when I really really wanted to make sure the slide stayed open it was very easy to put my thumb under the slide release and push up ...
IMHO it is kind of natural to do that with any gun.
With my 1911 I can easily push down on the slide release with my strong hand after a magazine is seated and the slide promptly close ... The 2.0 I tried wouldn't budge ... it took two hands to get the gun to close.
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4 hours ago, Domineaux said:
I love that mine does it, and after a while I was able to get to 95%+ consistency with it, just by consistently slamming the mag in with the right amount of force.
The change in the M2.0 to prevent this is the only reason I haven't bought one.
+1
As long as I seat the mag firmly ... my 5 inch 40 always closes ... gently and it always stays open ... IMHO a big benefit w/ shooting anything!!
I have wanted a 2.0 since they came out but like you ... the extra effort/time required to close the slide is the only reason I have not bought one.
I can't imagine what they thought they were fixing??!? If you put a magazine in the gun ... wouldn't you want the slide to close?? Would you want to walk around with the slide open??
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I just picked one up (last week) on EBay from snoshooze (Mark Richardson ... a member on this forum) and I gotta say IMHO ... this is one of the best modifications I have made to my 650.
I used to slide a little shoe under the primer arm to stop the primers ... but ... this thing ... heck ... you just snap it forward or backward.
When I start a fresh run I don't operated it until the first piece of brass is under the resizing die ... has really cut down on the number of primers sitting in the ski jump parking lot at end-batch cleanup.
This one (from the OP) looks like it will get the job done too w/o any drama.
I used to hate to put that little shoe in and take it out ... worse than trying to get a hold of shell plate pins.
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147 blue bullet (150gr .358) at 1.17 or 147 extreme plated (.357) at 1.16 oal (those are the oal's I get w/o moving the seating adjustment ... the extreme's are a little pointer than the blues) ... w/ 3.7gr Unique ... Starline brass ... roll crimped / just under 130pf.
The roll crimp is a Lee 37/357 FCD w/ a spacer on top of the crimp sleeve ... (brass leaves a light finger nail type scratch ring on the bullets ... feeds nice ... no inertia movement).
edit: better spelling attempted ...
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5 hours ago, Scootertheshooter said:
Pete so in the picture the hammer started to move back and the gauge read 36-37 or it had not started to move yet?
Although it can not be seen clearly ... before I measure I pull the trigger and mark (the frame with a lead pencil) the release point ... indicating the rear most travel of the hammer.
I then attach the paper clip and use the pull gauge to retract the hammer to that point.
That is the measurement I record ... the tension of the hammer at it's release point. (others may measure just as it starts to move away from the frame ... no matter ... you're looking for something you do the same every time so you can keep a maintenance record) ...
36oz (at release) as shown is the target for my 627.
I use a hex set screw /w loctite ... and if I have to work on the gun I re-tension to that setting (then testfire of course) ...
Also not clear in the photo ... is ... the front of the gun is clamped in a rubber jawed vise ... one of those small desk clamp on things ... the butt of the gun is sitting on it's red padded case.
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On 12/15/2017 at 9:33 AM, Scootertheshooter said:
If someone has a picture of doing this I would love it . I know I’m an idiot
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10 minutes ago, 10mmdave said:
Not seeing these on the Dawson site, do you have a link ?
Here they are ...
https://dawsonprecision.com/s-w-dx-classic-fiber-optic-front-sights/
I finally worked myself down to the .200 x .100 ... this gave me a lower setting for the Bowen ... With the taller sights (IMHO) the Bowen was getting a little out of it's range and didn't seem to me to have enough tension to retain it's setting ... but that's me.
I got the Bowen when Brownells was still selling them ... 100-004-953WB ...
I think the LPA rear sights have a similar surface area and probably are easier to adjust than the Bowen ... (the Bowen windage screws tighten from both sides and you loctite them)
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On 11/27/2017 at 2:18 PM, Loweredchevy said:
Are there any alternatives to loading cases easier such as a funnel or rotating turret for the 650 instead of the automatic case feeder? My basement has a low ceiling and not sure I can fit the feeder so I am looking at alternatives.
Here you go ... don't know if it is shorter ... they have a video!!
2019 Rules are released...
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
+1 (Tonya! Tonya! Tonya!!)