pete627

Yep ... I ordered one last night for my turret. I found a nice review here ... http://ingunowners.com/forums/ammunition-reloading/393421-lee-auto-drum-powder-measure-quick-review.html where they actually talk about removing the disconnect button. - quote from review - "the disconnect button is easily removed by removing the screw and pushing the connecting rod out to its furthest point. If you want to run this in a turret or progressive configuration, you'll want to get rid of this ASAP."

It looks like you can remove the dis-connector button too ... and then it works by case activation only (which would be a must-do with a turret).

I was lucky enough to get 140s mailorder in the US because they were 40 caliber. (One from targetsportsusa and the other from grabagun) ... In both cases they were delivered for approx $65. I replaced the basepads with grams 4mm and the internals with the grams spring/follower kits ... this added $50 per mag ... say $60 delivered. That added up to $125 complete for each ... delivery and all. I got one MBX for $130 ... $145 delivered. The difference is minimal ... and the MBX mags are really really nice ... but ... I can use over the counter STI guts/basepads in my Para/3011 SPS mag bodies and that is a plus for me (those parts will not fit the MBX). If all were equally available I would jump on the SPS for that reason. Of course ... how many do you need?? (I have enough now) ... and ... I had a choice because of the 140mm availability for the 40 caliber. Apparently ... no such opportunity for the 9mm.

I use the 38/357 factory crimp die and just put a spacer on top of the crimp sleeve to make it reach (unscrew the top ... drop in spacer ... screw top back in). I was loading blue bullets, berry's and black and blue the same way for 38 special so kept doing the same thing for short colt. I have disassembled some loads to see what it does to the bullet and it just puts a slight indent (you can feel it if you slide your finger nail over it) in the bullet and you can see the slight indent if you look carefully. It doesn't break the coating on any of the bullets that I have used. It really does grab the bullet though. If you try to "over roll-crimp" the brass just flattens out against the side of the bullet. This does get rid of the leading edge on the brass and so far seems to be working OK ... YMMV ... The crimp sleeves are available individually for about $3 ... so you can try either in your FCD without having to purchase a whole die to steal it out of ... 38/357 - SU3142 /// Lee Precision Crimp Sleeves /// 9mm - SU3147

Thanks!! Got it!!

It looks like they disappeared somewhere on the Apex site (or at least I can't find them anymore). Post a link if you see them. ... but ... I see they are selling them at speed-e-rack ... http://www.speed-e-rack.com/

I checked these out online and noticed they were rechargeable. (Which is great for me ... because) ... Otherwise ... I would likely end up putting in a new battery every usage (because of "my" light usage schedule and since most models can't be turned off). I also liked the idea that their carrying case will recharge them or I can do it in the car (with a USB adapter). Sooooo ... anyhow ... the reviews looked good and I have been watching these online and noticed that they are on sale today at Amazon for $214 (10/1/2015). The previous "lowest" price I had found was at Botach ... $229 (their regular price). Hope this info is of some value to someone that might have been thinking about giving them a try too.

Thanks for the tip ... I worry when I have to use my Mark 1 eyeball caliper cause it is about as accurate as my shooting ...

Brownells ... 080-948-381WB in one kit (cylinder). Have had this sitting on the desk for 6 months and afraid to do it!!! ... cause ... I am worried about keeping the cuts equal. How did you limit the cut depth?? (keep them all the same) I was thinking of hand turning it in a drill press so I could get the same depth in each hole.

Alright!! That's what I wanted to hear!! .040 replacement rods I got!!

OK ... I am probably not doing this right ... but ... on my Pro Custom 16.40 ... I measured the fiber right at the "break" indents in the middle of the sight and couldn't believe it ... I see .030. I'm also getting .110 as overall sight width. Soooooo ... none of this seemed to make any sense and thinking I am lacking even another skill I pulled out a .100 Dawson sight that is still in the shipping package for another gun. I measured this particular Dawson sight exactly at .100 overall width (like it is supposed to be) and the fiber spares in the bag measure exactly .040. I laid one of the "spare" Dawson fibers on top of the Para sight and held the pair under my "biggest" magnifying glass to try to make a judgement and it sure looks like the Dawson .040 is bigger. I am not breaking the rod to measure it directly ... especially .. since it looks like it might be .030 and I see now I don't have a replacement fiber. Sorry ... don't mean to add confusion but it sure looks like .030 to me. edit: I can't stand it ... I'm going to put it away before I break it and pull it out of there ...

I just got a Caldwell to replace my Chrony F-1. Honestly, I had a Chrony before and loved it but after I shot it I got another (a F-1) and it has been trouble. I just got tired of adding 20fps to all my averages (to be safe at a match). I have been shooting better these days and worrying less about murdering chronos anymore so I just had to try something new. Anyhow ... the App for the Caldwell does all the standard stats ... everything ... even tells you the power factor (if you put the bullet weight in) ... you can add/edit all kinds of information and it just does all kinds of stuff. I was afraid the App wouldn't work with my Samsung Galaxy Note 10.4 because I had been reading some crazy stuff about compatibility/connectivity issues with some Androids but it works just great on my tablet. They even provide a 15ft cable to plug into your tablet/ipad/phone whatever ... Don't even need to see the Caldwell with the tablet sitting on the table right in front of me!! After I saved a few strings I downloaded them to my home PC to save/organize them (you can email them ... transfer bluetooth ... whatever ... change to txt you name it). New technology is wonderful. (Got mine for $70 delivered ... cheaper than even a base Chrony). Check out the App features on the web.

I have a Pro Custom 16.40 and have been running at 1.125 (new Blazer Brass 180 and 180 Blue Bullet reloads) with no problem. I have two factory magazines with factory springs/followers and Dawson bases; two SPS 140s with Grams springs/followers/bases (for STI) and one MBX 140 (unmolested ... as shipped). About a month ago I started having an occasional inertia feed (fortunately while practicing) ... on just the SPS mags ... (a bullet would end up in front of the extractor and the slide wouldn't close ... the errant bullet apparently walked out of the magazine as the slide slammed back and then got pushed into the chamber by the slide ... but not underneath the extractor). Following good advise I (lifted) increased the angle of the top (front leading edge) of the mag springs and the problem went away ... (as they were you could tap the mags on the table and watch the top round walk forward). Anyhow ... afterwards I measured the OAL of the ammo I was using (when I had the problem) and the entire remaining box was 1.120 and shorter ... some as low as 1.118. The ammo was the last of some leftover Freedom Munitions ammo (reloads) I had originally bought to break in the gun. I haven't had the problem since ... and have thought about lengthening the OAL on future loads for insurance. I guess my poor tuning of the SPS mags and the short ammo together was a little too much for the Para. The only other "1911" type pistol I have is a 45 and the rounds "fill up" the magazines ... I had never even heard of an "inertia" feed until this happened.

I liked it until the end ... when ... they got TGO to stir things up ... talking about his "serrated" trigger ... (and possibly a thin one at that .265). I have seen Jerry comment about this in the past (no reason why ... just that he liked them) but remember how pleased I was to remove one from my model 10 and replace it with a "smooth" .400. It really made my finger hurt. Soooo ... does anyone else use a serrated trigger and like it?? (for any particular reason). Am I too far out of touch on this?? I was afraid to start a new topic on it (better search first I guess). I even thought he might have been joking to screw with the host ... (as they aren't that difficult to find).

If you are talking about a Pro Custom 18.9 ... (double stack) there are SPS, MBX and others available. Check out the threads on these in the "Technical Factory Pistol - Para" section of the forums.

Yep ... the EGW 10143 (two piece) ... put one of them in a Taurus 9mm 1911 and another in Rock Island. The seat had to be fitted so it would sit flat in the Rock ... but ... not a biggie. I can't put my finger on it but (to me) it just seemed like it made both of those guns more pleasant to shoot. It has always been a pleasure to let folks shoot them at the range and get their response. It made both of them easier to take apart too (you can unscrew the front half with an allen if you like).

Yep ... 2015 Revolver Nationals ... let me see how fast I can scan the cover here ... edit: here it is ... hey!! ... you're in there too ... congrats ...

Title says it all ... Sept/Oct 2015 FrontSight (USPSA mag) ... Congratulations to a bunch of revolver shooters too!

Wow ... very nice. Did that start as a Pro Custom??

I found an LPA site with a better description ... according to this one ... the LPA notch is .070 deep (slightly deeper than the Bowen) .. http://www.wheelgun-supply.com/Smith___Wesson_LPATXT_Silver_Rear_Sight/p3073750_13653877.aspx

I'm getting .0625 (1/16 of an inch) ... Just remember ... the Bowen isn't like a factory sight for windage adjustment ... You tighten screws from each side to get what you want and loctite them. Not a biggie for me ... I like the big flat back panel but "it is different" and could be a shock if you weren't aware of that.

Just FYI ... I have a Bowen RCSWS40T - (the .400 tall - Brownells - 100-004-953WB) installed on my 5" 627. At the time I put it on I was running a .250 front sight and it seemed to me that the Bowen was getting a little too loose and too close to the top of it's usable adjustment limit (with that high a front). I need to try a slightly shorter front sight to allow rear to operate with less elevation adjustment Sooooo ... I swapped out the (.250) front for a Dawson .225 x .100 and that allowed me to reduce the height adjustment 1/2 turn (that gave me dead-on at 12yds ... using 1 1/2 turn on the sight). Anything too much past 2 full turns on "my" Bowen started to get a little too loose for my liking. YMMV edit: It looks like they are stocking the LPA versions at Revolver Supply these days and they are very similar (possibly a more "factory like" windage adjustment arrangement). http://www.revolversupply.com/

You are supposed to have 120 for ICORE and 105 (I think these days) for IDPA ... but 125 for USPSA ... soooo ... I just cranked everything up to 125 w/ cushion to simplify.

(as already mentioned) ... how about just replacing the slide with one with ears (2001+) ... http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/ctgy/buckmark-slide edit: or something like this ... http://striplincustom.com/products/browning-buckmark-slide-racker-serrated