RoundEye

Try Atlanta Arms.

From the best that I was able to determine it’s that if the recoil spring is too light in a striker fired gun that the act of pressing the trigger / cocking the striker could pull the gun slightly out of battery making it at risk for a potentially dangerous situation.

The Classifier (5x5 or the original one) were really designed to test a shooter’s skills and abilities. Not necessarily their reading comprehension skills or equipment. In short, there really shouldn’t be any Ps given. If someone makes a mistake, the stage should be reset, and they should shoot that stage or string again. The classifier unless otherwise specified is a Limited Standard Stage. The rulebook says: 3.2.2.2 Body and head shots may be required on an individual visible cardboard target and must be shot in the order and quantity stipulated in the CoF. Failure to shoot one or more targets in the required body then head order earns the shooter a single Procedural Error (PE).

Don’t listen to all those nay sayers, .40 Minor is like playing a video game and having a cheat code that nobody else has. I have a G35.3 that is shoot in IDPA ESP/SSP, and USPSA Production. I run the uncaptured long boi guide rod from TTI and a 13# Wolff Spring (where legal). In all my testing it seems to shoot the flattest with 130PF loads. .40 > *

This whole thing is kind of dumb, and makes it even more challenging to be an RSO and administer the rules properly. A stage that was intended to be shot 222r222 could actually be shot 333r111, and still be within the rules. A simple change would be to redefine engagement to mean that a target has been considered engaged when the required number of shots (in most cases 2) has been satisfied. This is something IDPA got right in their book. Just my $0.02.

If you lower the recoil spring weight, why do you also need a softer striker spring? I’m not seeing how the the two correlate. I know that Wolff includes a striker spring with all their GLOCK springs, but they said it was just out of courtesy as they feel it’s an overlooked maintenance item. They’re also reported to be just stick weight springs.

No, it’s different and once people see more of them it will be quite obvious. Hopefully, GLOCK decides to produce a gun with them from the factory which will solve this dilemma. Exactly.

Now, I’d probably opt for the GLOCK Performance Trigger if the rules permit. So far it doesn’t look like it’s going to come standard on any gun from the factory, so that might be a no go.

If you’re buying new, it’s probably worth the additional money for a Gen 5. If you already have 1 or Many Gen 3s, I don’t think there is enough of an improvement (my $0.02) to warrant selling them all in favor of their Gen 5 counter parts. Hell, I recently picked up a BNIB 24.3, and I think it’s great. They also don’t make a 24.4 or 24.5, so there is that. The main differences primarily consist of Ambi controls, a better magazine release, the grip + back straps, Marksman Barrel (Gen5), and a flared magazine well. The latter of which I think it probably the most advantageous of the bunch. Unless you’re left handed of course, the. The 4 or 5 is probably a game changer for you.

Well done, and thank you for the analytics. Looking forward to seeing the future results as well.

I’m right handed but left eye dominant (but over the years I’ve taught myself to shoot with my right eye), and I should from left to right, reload, and then left to right again. In the SHO, or WHO variants, I shoot left to right WHO, and right to left SHO.

Thanks for that confirmation.

I probably should have noted it in the OP, but the gun is a Gen 3 G35, so the bushing that is required for Gen 4/5 guns should not be required since it can accept the standard size single spring guide rod assemblies. The only thing that is different is that this guide rod is extends to the edge of the barrel where the factory one, and most other aftermarket replacements are OEM size and would have end an inch or so behind the slide.

The other day I picked up this "TTI Oversized Stainless Steel Guide Rod for Glock 9mm/.40 cal", and after installing it and cycle the slide a few times the rod seems to bias towards the top. If you pull the slide off and reseat the guide rod, it'll be centered, but them bias the top again after a few cycles of the slide. It does not seem to be touching the slide at all or causing any issues during live fire. Is this normal, or something I should be concerned about?

I'll becoming from behind enemy lines (The People's Republic of Kalifornia), and this will be my fist time heading to PA to shoot a match. I have heard good things about Topton, and am looking forward to it.