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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

kf4zht

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Everything posted by kf4zht

  1. I've been shooting icore for about 3 years now, mostly with a 625 running moons. Recently the club said that they would do a .22 group also and for $5 extra you can run two guns. Been eyeing the 617s for a while and it was enough to convince me. Got a few questions after looking around Speedloaders - are speedbeez the only game? I can't find an HKS that lists as fitting. If it is speedbeez I see you can save a few bucks on the polymer over the aluminum. Worth it or spend the extra? Ammo - any major recommendations for most reliable ammo? I know reliable and 22 is a something of a relative thing Trigger - While I would love it to match my 625 I know that 22 is going to have ignition issues. Searches range from only touching the strain screw to the JM trigger springs to the springs with an extended firing pin. I'd prefer not to run an extended FP so I can dryfire it safer. Whats the current recommendation. Its a new production model.
  2. I really like my 625. Great comp gun for Icore, but also a fun general shooter. 45ACP is arguably easier to find than 38, especially if you already own a 1911 or similar. Also the moon clips are super cheap compared with some. It is a big chunk of gun. Basically like a 45 colt but with a slightly shorter cylinder.
  3. Found some Clays, but shooting a match this weekend with a titewad load that seems decent. I've got a couple lbs of it to burn through. For now I stuck with all winchester brass, just to eliminate any variables. Got my moon clip holder built and did some, but not enough, reloading practice Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
  4. Ok, that how I read it. I will get some mats out and try both ways to see. I tried both drawing with and without hitting the lock and have a hard time getting my hand position right when hitting the lock on the way up. If I need to I will make a new lock bar that gets the release to somewhere better suited for me.
  5. With my new to me 625 came an older ghost holster. Seems to fit the gun well, so I planned on using it. It has a safety lever around back of it, instead of on the front like a Wsm. Reading the rules on holsters and 5.4 caught my eye. Specifically that the condition of the holster in the jump test has to be the same as the start position. Does this mean that the lever need to be down (locked) at the make ready command and I need to practice hitting that lever as part of my draw? Also are there any concerns I need to know about with this? Don't want to use it if there is some flaw that will let it drop the gun. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
  6. Did some trading and ended up with a proper gun. 1989 model 625-3. Already had some trigger work done and came with an older ghost holster, houge and mickulek grips and a few moon clips. Already ordered 100 more moons from 4 wheel guns, a couple tekloks and some 1/2 aluminum rod to make a holder from. Wanted to see if there were any general rules for loading these for icore. Thinking a fast powder and 185 or 200 gn bullets. Seems to be about 80% with cci primers, so I need to find some federal, or at least winchester. Possible powders I was thinking and have - titewad, Ramshot comp, trailboss, n320. No Clays on hand Do I need to slug the barrel/cylinder or are these pretty predictable? I know trigger work was done but not sure what else. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
  7. 2 ftf already, seems to be a random timing issue. I could fix up the Taurus, I bought it for $100 and already brought it back to life. It is a somewhat tempting option as I could build up my tooling for later on. I'll be shooting the Taurus again next month unless something falls in my lap. Hoping to get some practice in and uncover the ftf when I can diagnose the issue. Also should be able to get it in the mill and camfer the cylinders a little and make loading easier Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
  8. Guess I forgot to say, new is not required, in fact used is better. Just had a kid so the budget is limited, ideally I want to find something I can trade for. I just don'e want something older that is either considered "collectible" or uses parts that are more difficult to find or modify. Sounds like the list is 19, 66, 14, 15 and 67. I might consider an L frame, if I found the right deal on a 586 or 686 to have budget for the necessary accessories I may consider it. Eventually I will probably move up to L6 with a 625 and would prefer to save for that for now.
  9. Shot my first ICORE match yesterday and had a blast. Buddy and me both decided to try it out, but neither wanted to get too far in. Shot my 4" Taurus 66 with some comp 3 speedloaders I picked up from AWD and a holder I roughly copied from NM with some spare kydex. Ended up placing 3rd in classic and I'm hooked. I think I want to stay in classic for a while, preferably keeping my speedloader setup since it worked so well. So it looks like that means a K Frame in 38/357, but then the confusion starts. I get completely lost in the numbers, then some are only available in short barrels, or were made 80 years ago and have no aftermarket. In short can someone help me with a list of what models to look for that: 4-6" barrel K frame 6 shot 357 Generally modern, aka parts and accessories available Not some goofy collectors item that costs too much Just getting lost here. I don't do well with number only model, glocks confuse me too. Sent from my F5321 using Tapatalk
  10. That could be a possibility. My only concern would be a 7.5" barrel being too long. It does make major loads feel like marshmellows
  11. Sounds like everyone is fairly unanimous on the 8-9 shot for minor. My only hangup is on the financial side. I've got an almost 2 month old, so while I have some time for reloading and gun work new gun funds arent really happening. I was hoping that a 6 could get me by to get my feet wet, I have offers on a gun I don't shoot for a 6 and some leftover cash for holster and speed loaders. Ive seen some nice ready to run guns, I just need to decide if I am committed enough to sell something else to give this a try. Got some thinking time ahead of me...
  12. I've shot a few USPSA matches, trying different guns. Having fun but not sure of what gun I like. So far it's been Limited and Production. I have always loved shooting revolvers and watching the (few) guys shooting revolver it just seemed like more fun. Plus it seems a little cheaper to try (ignoring the cost of the gun) moon clips are cheaper, brass gets saved and I can easily make a moonclip holster instead of spending $20+ each on mag holders Right now all I have for revolvers is a 8" 454, a 442 and a taurus tractor gun. While I could argue that one shot of 454 should count for 2 hits of normal calibers it will probably fall on deaf ears (also a common symptom of 454). So I am working on some trading right now for a P226 that I hardly ever shoot anymore. Doesn't seem to be many of the "normal" USPSA revolvers around in my area. One guy has a 627 NIB, however he wants over a grand for it, I can get it from a dealer for less. I have gotten several offers for other 6 shot revolvers. The most interesting was a GP100 6" that has already been worked by a local smith. While it is only a 6 shot the trigger work takes care of some of the work and it could be turned into a decent hunting gun if I ended up selling it. It would cost around $150 to convert to moonclips, but The other option is to wait till the Sig sells and order a 625 or 627. If you were starting out what would you do?
  13. Current lack of mags that I trust. The SIG I can try without having to buy anything now that the holster question is answered. If I like it there is no doubt I will be stocking up on some good mags with decent base plates. Plus I don't shoot bad with the sig by any means, if anything it has better sights for followup.
  14. Here is the sig in da mode. The trigger is not visible at all. I think long term I will end up in single stack. Probably will end up picking up another 1911, this one is going to be my 460r conversion. I will be watching what others are using before starting down that path. Sounds like for now the sig will be my best way to run with little investment Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
  15. A work friend invited me to try USPSA, and with matches less than 5 minutes from my house I figured it would be fun. I shoot 2-3 times a month, mostly pistol on steel so it seems like a good chance to test my skills. I am a little questioning my gun choice Option 1: MP 9 Advantages - Most common gun that I shoot, have a good holster (Blade Tech) Disadvantage - Only 2 Mags, so need a couple more at $25-30 each, has a factory threaded barrel so it might fall outside the "Production" rules Option 2: Sig P226 Advantages: Better trigger in SA mode, have 5 total mags already Disadvantages: Holster may not work, I am concerned that the trigger section does not cover enough. Not sure if anyone can comment, this is with the trigger in SA Mode Option 3: Kimber C2 1911 Advantages: Best gun I shoot with, have 5-6 mags Disadvantages: May need holster - same concerns as the sig and will need mag pouches I need magazine pouches for the Sig/MP but I found some I can print with my 3d printer than seem plenty sturdy to last a match. If the SIG holster works I think its the winner since there is no outlay, but if it doesn't its a toss up between the 3. In that case I would lean more toward the MP, extra mags are always good and its more likely to be a gun I would use in the future if I like it. Any advice, recommendations, etc are appreciated. Also - I reload both 9 and 45, however would you recommend a new shoot use factory ammo first time out just to eliminate issues. I very rarely have reload issues but I dont like tempting Murphy.
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