drpatt92@msn.com

I took the trigger group apart and polished the contact surfaces. I do mean polished...like with a soft stone or 0000 steel wool. I didn't try to take any material off and DID Not mess with the sear angles. I wasn't worried about machine marks. I wasn't trying to remove them. What I was after was smooth contact points. Often less is more. The result for me was a crisp breraking trigger with a minimum of felt creep. It was a great improvement that was all that was necessary for this type of shooting. P.S. I am not a gunsmith. This is what worked for me.

Hahahahaha. I did the same thing. I mean the exact same thing when I put my easy loader in. It's a good thing we don't build aircraft.

I found a Remington 1100 with a 26" barrel, 12 ga with synthetic stocks for a good price so I'm going to begin there. I ordered a Choat 10 rnd tube and bolt lever for it to start. I'm thinking in a few months, I may have a JPoint installed. Porting? Any thoughts here folks? Will it make a significant difference? Brian

I'm in need of advice regarding where to begin building an open class shotgun. I've previously owned a Bennelli M1 Super 90 and truth be told, it beat me senseless. There is no doubt that they have to be the most reliable shotgun made. They're impossible to jam and they always work...but they seemed to me to be very punishing. That said, I'm thinking about building an open class shotgun for 3 gun. My question is, which shotgun should I start with, the Bennelli or a Remaington 1187? Some of you may say, send a check to JP and have them build one but, I do enjoy doing the work on my firearms. Thanks in advance for the input. Brian

I've spent the last four months or so parting together a 20" HB M15 using JP parts. In the end, I may well end up spending as much or more than if I'd have had JP build an upper. While that doesn't make good $ sense, I really enjoy doing the work on the rifle and seeing the differences that each addition makes. Granted, JP is going to be better at building rifles than I'll ever be, but I'm learning a great deal and having a lot of fun with the process. JP's instructions are excellent, their parts are second to none, and they're available. If you're the sort who likes to work on your firearms I'd tell you to part it together. If you're not, have them build you an upper. As others have intoned, get the trigger for your lower, you won't regret it. If you want to chat about it, feel free to contact me directly. Brian

Gracias, gentlemen.

This is my first year of competition and I'm currently a C class open shooter. I'm knocking on the door of B class and hope to make the grade this year. In the year previous, I shot 40,000 rounds usually 3 live fire sessions a week. However, most of those rounds were with a 45 ACP 1911. I only received my race gun in 38 Super in February and I'm still ironing out reloading issues. There's no doubt I need to dry fire more often.

Lately, it seems as though my C-more sight has gotten dimmer. The dot doesn't seem to be visible outdoors except on the brightest setting. That hasn't always been the case. The only place I've been able to find batteries for it is at Radio Shack. I'd like to find Duracells via the web. Any advice?

I've had good luck getting VV from Powder Valley (powdervalley.com). they seem to have it every time I order.

I've been practicing at an indoor range for the last two or more years. The target carriers go back 50 feet from the firing line. Over time, I've developed a relationship with the owner so I'm now able to work for a couple hours before the range opens. Im able to set up targets down range and practice in front of the line. Prior to that I had to make do with a lane or two. So here's what I do. I had a number of drills, most of which are stright forward. Bill Drills: 6 shots into an 8" target at 21' hopefully under 2 sec. (really useful for trigger speed). Mini El Prez: 3 targets on the carrier, 2 shots on each, reload, 2 shots again on each (with or without the turn) (7 sec.). Drawn taps x2: Draw from the holster, 2 shots, reholster (do this till your sick). Reload drills: Load as many mags as you have with three rounds each. Draw and fire x2, reload, fire x2, reload, etc., until you've used up the mags. Look up the IDPA classifier (idpa.com) and scale it down for the range. All the stages use three targets. To practice poppers I put as many targets on a hanger as I could manage, draw and fire one shot at each at max distance (poppers are rarely close). These are just some suggestions. Be creative and don't get in a rut. Change things up as much as you can. Work on that relationship with the owner and the workers. I don't know what your range rules are like. I've been to some that don't allow "Rapid Fire." It can be a problem but I've also found that if you don't shoot the place up and appear to know what you're doing, I've never been asked to stop. At some point you'll want to invest in a shot timer but that can be tricky indoors because of the echos and is difficult with more than one other shooter on the range. Also, with all of the drills, mix up the sequence that you shoot the targets in. Don't always go left to right, right to left. Shoot them in different orders as much as possible. Most important, focus on the fundamentals. Your drills are going to be fairly simple so keep your focus on the mechanics of your draws/reloads, getting your eyes ahead of the sights, trigger control, etc. Have fun, be safe. Brian