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DMax

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    Mike Casey

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  1. Unless we are talking high power sniper rifle rounds, minor cosmetic blemishes arent gonna cause noticeable accuracy issues with most handgun rounds, especially if the blemish in question has no contact with the barrel. I've shot some pretty mangled up LSWC's where the cone was all beat up from rough shipping. The "A" zone @ 15-25 yds didn't seem to care, lol.
  2. My Priority list goes like this. 1. Buy whatever is available. 2. If more than one choice is available, I go with Federal, Winchester, Tula, then CCI. In that order. My guns / press is not too picky when it comes to primers. If I use CCI, I have to use full power striker springs or hammer springs, because they are on the harder side. I have shot and will continue to shoot any primer brand that I can get my hands on.
  3. I try to use the same loads for practice and matches. I do have/had some really powder puff boxes stashed away though just for fun shooting or for the woman. I don't remember the load data but it was way under book load data. At 25 yards you could see the bullets leave the gun and travel downrange! Almost like shooting a paintball gun lol.
  4. I run 4.5gr BE under a 200gr SWC. Most accurate load I have found in my TRP so far. I probably right under major PF though, but it shoots nice and soft. Side note, the above will NOT reliably function a stock Glock 21. Not enough power to cycle the gun every time.
  5. My SA TRP likes 200gr SWC at about 1.210" to 1.230". Shot many a thousand of these and zero issues. (knock on wood) never any hangups at a match with them. These are with Precision Delta swaged bullets. There is maybe a thumbnail's thickness of shoulder above the case mouth. Only issue I have is the Precision Delta's are pretty soft and they will lead up my barrel if I don't clean it every other match or so.
  6. On a semi-auto its good to have a tiny bit of over travel for when things start to get dirty. I had a 1911 set up to stop at the breakiing poont and after only 100 or so rounds there was just enough gunk to stop it from breaking the shot everytime.
  7. I run a 15lb spring in my TRP. I find the front sight returns to its spot smoothly. You can also see the gun has less muzzle flip. I do use a shock buff and they last the life of the recoil spring easily. You'd have to be running some HOT loads to damage a forged frame 1911.
  8. I prefer WST and Bullseye for my 45 loads. Both are quite useful and capable for loading light as well as making major. I love the "gentle" recoil of a light WST load. You can make some real bunny farts with Bullseye too.
  9. On a 1911, its a simple task to change the recoil spring to allow lighter loads to cycle. I wont get into many details, but I've once loaded a 45 so slow you could see it fly downrange. Probably only 400fps max. That was a light load and a light spring.
  10. I dont have the exact answer you are asking but its related none the less. I load up coated lead 147s (blue bullets) with ~3.6gr of WST. The load is light and the brass dribbles out of my G19. Super soft to shoot. Based on my reading and other's experiences as well as my own, charge weights in WST are very similar to charges listed for 231/HP38.
  11. I find WST is nice to use in 9mm. Not a lot of published loads in books now days but its out there. WST really shines in 45 though. Its stupid soft. I load 147 RNFP Blue Bullets ~3.6gr WST 1.14 OAL CCI Mixed brass Dont have exact speed numbers but my buddy who chrono'd his loads says its making minor PF in his G34. Its really light recoil.
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