jddbugman

Thanks guys, I am going to file some more relief in that should solve the problem

I am rebuild a old kimber. new sear and hammer, change the grip safety to allow a much higher grip. I fire the first round no problem, the pistol cycles fine the hammer locks back all the way, but on trigger squeeze I feel a click but no hammer fall/movement at all.It is not falling to 1/2 cock. I am thinking I need more clearance on the nose of the grip safety, but not sure what the click I am feeling is. What are your thoughts.

No I got the new one on a 1050s

The case feeder on my 1050s is having issue with 9mm brass. I am having the case geting stuck and not dropping down the shute.They are jamming between the door and the shellplate. What can I do

SORRY ABOUT THE DOUBLE POST. I am using my andriod pad for this and having problems. When using a auto drive sorting the brass is critical. 380,32 sw in with 9mm or 38 super gum up the works. I got the 1050s because my 650 was giving me problems, and the auto drive because I got thousands and thousands of components to put together in 9mm,45acp,300 blk,308. Kinda thought I would pay for it by processing brass. Sorting range brass is labor intensive!!! EVEN AUTOMATED IT TAKES A LOT OF TIME, you will have to sell a lot of brass to pay for a good sorter, cleaning is not rocket science, but is a mess,and not something I would not do if on well water, or if I had small children in the area. There must be a fair amount of lead dust in indoor range sweepings. The big problem is spending all this money and having your source of brass dry up. The auto drives are not a whole lot faster than cranking them out by hand. If all you have is 3 or 4 thousand cases Don t waste your money. The extra time and care to keep it running is not worth it for 4000 rounds. In the last week I processed 16k of 9mm,5k of 300 blk , I got 10 more of 9mm, 15 k of 45acp and 5 k of 308. I will have 9mm processed for $60/1000, + 45acp at $70/1000. . If interested pm me. J D

I JUST purchased both the 1050s and the pw 900 rpm drive. NOT HAVlNG ANY PREVOUS EXPERIENCE WITH THE 1050 WAS A DISADVANTAGE! I have since upgraded to a 1200 rpm gear for brass processing. When doing your initial set up pull the swager rod and the primer seating rod out. ANY TIMING PROBLEMS WILL BEND THEM OR WARP THE SHELL PLATE! Pull priming fixture and Rachet off the press. Pull the tool head. Attach the drive to the press,loosen the clutch. WITH THE SHELL PLATE INSTALLED WITH LIGHT TENSION Rotate by hand and see how it feels..if set up seems even on both ends of the stroke. Turn the drive on and see if the shell plate index like it should. If it does with a loose tension on the shell plate,you will need to tighten the shell plate retainer. Shell plate tension/drag is critical to proper case feeding and smooth operation. I PURCHASED THE CERAMIC BALL AND BEARING KIT. YOU WANT THE PLATE TO DRAG JUST A LITTLE BUT NOT BIND. WHEN YOU GOT IT RIGHT IT SHELL WILL NOT MOVE UP AND DOWN WHEN YOU PRESS ON IT OR POP INTO BATTERY. When adjusted right It may start pulling up short and not index. You will need to lengthen the stroke of the drive until it does. Your goal is to get it to index every time with proper shell plate tension. WITH OUT PROPER SHELL PLATE TENSION YOU WILL HAVE CASE FEEDING PROBLEMS AND AOL PROBLEMS AND SIZING PROBLEMS. When set up right the drive will index plate smoothly with out poping or jumping noises every time. NOW INSTALl THE TOOL HEAD WITH OUT DIES. If you pick up a poping or cluncking noise it is coming from the tool head alignment rod. TRY TO ADJUST IT OUT. Mark the rod with layout blue to see where it is rubbing. The press should now run with out any major poping or clunking noises and index smoothly. First die to adjust is the case mouth expander. Grind the side off the bottom of a shell casting so you can view the inside of the case head. Set the expander at the end of the stroke to touch the inside of the case head. DIFFERENT HAD STAMP WILL BE DIFFERENT THICKNESS, TRY TO PICK ONE IN THE MIDDLE. . IF YOUR GOING TO DESWAGE SET IT UP NOW. That's my set up for processing brass. Leave the primer seating pin out, but put the primer slide back in. Leave the primer tower or rachet off if just processing. If you are fooling with range brass processing first ( cleaning sizing depriming, deswaging,flairing,polishing) makes loading smoother, "less spilled powder,tilted bullets,more consistent Oal and power charges". NOW FOR LOADING SET UP. DO NOT PUT IN A SIZEING DIE, use a universal decaper. Next set up your primer seater death adjustment. You did remenber to reinstall the pin when you tore down for cleaning. THEN SET UP AS NORMAL ON POWDER,FLAIRING AT POWDER STATION, Seating and crimping.

I JUST purchased both the 1050s and the pw 900 rpm drive. NOT HAVlNG ANY PREVOUS EXPERIENCE WITH THE 1050 WAS A DISADVANTAGE! I have since upgraded to a 1200 rpm gear for brass processing. When doing your initial set up pull the swager rod and the primer seating rod out. ANY TIMING PROBLEMS WILL BEND THEM OR WARP THE SHELL PLATE! Pull priming fixture and Rachet off the press. Pull the tool head. Attach the drive to the press,loosen the clutch. WITH THE SHELL PLATE INSTALLED WITH LIGHT TENSION Rotate by hand and see how it feels..if set up seems even on both ends of the stroke. Turn the drive on and see if the shell plate index like it should. If it does with a loose tension on the shell plate,you will need to tighten the shell plate retainer. Shell plate tension/drag is critical to proper case feeding and smooth operation. I PURCHASED THE CERAMIC BALL AND BEARING KIT. YOU WANT THE PLATE TO DRAG JUST A LITTLE BUT NOT BIND. WHEN YOU GOT IT RIGHT IT SHELL WILL NOT MOVE UP AND DOWN WHEN YOU PRESS ON IT OR POP INTO BATTERY. When adjusted right It may start pulling up short and not index. You will need to lengthen the stroke of the drive until it does. Your goal is to get it to index every time with proper shell plate tension. WITH OUT PROPER SHELL PLATE TENSION YOU WILL HAVE CASE FEEDING PROBLEMS AND AOL PROBLEMS AND SIZING PROBLEMS. When set up right the drive will index plate smoothly with out poping or jumping noises every time. NOW INSTALl THE TOOL HEAD WITH OUT DIES. If you pick up a poping or cluncking noise it is coming from the tool head alignment rod. TRY TO ADJUST IT OUT. Mark the rod with layout blue to see where it is rubbing. The press should now run with out any major poping or clunking noises and index smoothly. First die to adjust is the case mouth expander. Grind the side off the bottom of a shell casting so you can view the inside of the case head. Set the expander at the end of the stroke to touch the inside of the case head. DIFFERENT HAD STAMP WILL BE DIFFERENT THICKNESS, TRY TO PICK ONE IN THE MIDDLE. . IF YOUR GOING TO DESWAGE SET IT UP NOW. That's my set up for processing brass. Leave the primer seating pin out, but put the primer slide back in. Leave the primer tower or rachet off if just processing. If you are fooling with range brass processing first ( cleaning sizing depriming, deswaging,flairing,polishing) makes loading smoother, "less spilled powder,tilted bullets,more consistent Oal and power charges". NOW FOR LOADING SET UP. DO NOT PUT IN A SIZEING DIE, use a universal decaper. Next set up your primer seater death adjustment. You did remenber to reinstall the pin when you tore down for cleaning. THEN SET UP AS NORMAL ON POWDER,FLAIRING AT POWDER STATION, Seating and crimping.

In all fairness to SW a quick phone call to them they are shipping me a new striker assembly fed x two day on their dime no questions asked. great customer service. JD

I started shooting plate matches after a 35 year layoff. Did not have a 9mm and saw a ported performance center in 9mm . Thought it would be a cheap way to get back in . wrong!!! first the mag na ported barrel is so dirty after a few shots I can't see the fiber optic front post I spent 35 bucks on. After 150 rounds or so I had to soak the barrel to get it out of the slide. footed for the apex forward set trigger and like it a lot, got tired of the magna port problems so I purchased a caver comp/,kkk barrel set. It is Much cleaner,bumped up the loads a little and added a heavy recoil spring guide. I can't give a full review because the factory striiker spring gave out after 500 rounds. Started getting a miss fire or two, then would not set off any thing. Cleaned the striker port of all oil and streched the spring will set off federal primers only. If I had to do it again I would go 1911 9mm long slide with a carver optic mount. I am happy with my delta point though. Even with the comp or porting the pistol is too light to run JD