metau

You're most welcome Jack. STIboy brings up a good point. That's why I would sight in your rifle so that POI sits directly on top of your POI at 50 yards. Also, you should have no issues with the SBR, as long as your club allows them.

+2 on the M2.

Have him add a JM brake to his M&P, drop in a trigger, and start registering for matches. He will shave off time quicker by learning how to plan a stage than he will by waiting to buy fancier gear and sitting on his @ss in the meantime.

I double up when RO'ing stages. Use the radians when I'm the shooter.

Had one. Sold it and bought a hiperfire. Way happier.

Agreed. Totally fine with a red dot inside 100 yards. In fact, you'd be totally fine with iron sights, but those are a lot cheaper, and half the fun of shooting 3 gun is watching your paycheck turn into gear.

The Raptor's are great. Just look for deals.

Seeing as you are newer to 3-gun, I feel you would save more time on your stages once you start shooting longer ranges with the added velocity of the longer barrel versus the "quicker time" saved from moving a shorter barrel around barriers. If you are close enough to hit a barrier, odds are you will be lowering your rifle to turn rather than stepping all the way back to turn, and once it is lowered, the difference in length is negligible. If it was a 4" difference, I could understand a more valid argument.

For hoser stages, whatever I find cheapest. The Hornady Steel Match has worked nicely for me in the past for longer stuff.

Good choice on the Bobro, love mine. Also curious on the discount code.

Never shot the nova, but I've heard great things about them. I ran my bare bones 870 just fine for my first two years of 3 gun, and still shoot it almost as fast as my M2. But then again, it has also been my duck/goose/dove/quail/ptarmigan/grouse/turkey/squirrel/rabbit/deer/chukar/trap/skeet/clays shotgun for over 10 years, and I know the gun very, very well. There's no need for the magnum version. With the steel receiver, it does take a bit more work to open up the loading port, but with a bit of time, a good set of files and a steady hand, you should have no issue getting it to where you like. I did take the dremmel sander to the front of the trigger group as there's a slight lip there that needed smoothed out. Never tried loading quads with it, but I can loads twins on it smooth as butter.

Nordic NC-1.

Looks like I'm coming home in time for this one and can drive up. Anyone know if there are slots still open? Thanks.

If you can find one, a Jim White head is about as good as they come.

I've been very pleased so far with my Bobro.

Bobro extended single lever.

Thanks for the education Doug.

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a wireless strobe and how is it used for long range targets? Thanks.

longrangehunting.com usually has several hundred posts in the classifieds each week. I've picked up several parts for my bolt guns there.

I live in Phoenix and work in Atlanta. I fly back home at least twice a month, ferrying various firearms back and forth while doing so, including flying back home for my old local 3 gun matches. I can get all 3 guns, all mags and pistol/rifle ammo in my pelican 3300 and be right at 50 lbs, without the locks on. I have been over before with other guns in there, but southwest has never charged me. I've only been up to 62 lbs though(I did get charged an extra bag fee for a fly rod case once, never did understand that one). I actually have a stack of the cards that need filled out, and show up with them already filled out. Makes things go extremely smoothe. Anyways, here are a few things to remember: Print out 3 copies of both the airline's & TSA's rules/laws regarding flying with firearms and ammunition. Keep one with the guns/ammo and the other two in your carry on. It helps when dealing with people who have never checked one in, or are anti-gun. Do not check in your firearms at the curbside check in. It may be allowed by your airline, but I know for several it is not. Again, check their rules. Do NOT use TSA locks on your hard case with firearms inside. The law clearly states that you, and only you, are allowed to control access into the container. Twice I've had to open the case when it failed the wipe down, and both times I have had to enter the screening area and open the case for them. Again, read the rules adn laws. Your hard sided case and manner of locking must be up to par. When locked, if the case can be opened and a wedge be inserted to slide a gun or ammo out, it likely will not pass. If transporting a hard sided pistol case inside your soft shell luggage, I highly suggest an additional cable bike lock. Wrap it through the case handle and around the frame of the luggage's extending handle. Remember, the hard shell case gets the padlocks, the softshell luggage gets the TSA locks. Once you approach the ticketing agent, it is highly suggested that you use the phrase "I'd like to declare a firearm for check in" rather than "I have a gun". Having a stack of the cards required in the case pre filled out and handing them the card along with your ID helps speed up the process. Triple check your range bag, holsters and other gear for a loose round. Once again, the law clearly stipulates the approved containers that ammunition must be transported in. Having a loose round in your luggage or gun case will keep it from being put on the plane. And if you are running a tight schedule, there will liekly not be sufficient time for you to be contacted, exit the secure area, remedy the situation and then clear back through security. Do not mark the case in anyway as containing firearms. The airlines and TSA are not allowed to do. If they do, show them the laws you have printed out. Once you have locked your case back up with the paperwork inside, you will either be directed or escorted to the TSA screening area for large items. DO NOT leave until the TSA agent has tested your case, attached the little orange sticker and given you verbal confirmation that your case has passed and you are free to proceed to go. Do not freak out if your large case does not hit the conveyor belt with your main luggage. I have been told by employees that the airlines tend to not put them on there due to the large locks cutting up the conveyor belts, and that if they even suspect that the case may contain firearms, it has to remain under their direct control(seperate holding area or in baggage claim office) until a valid calim ticket is presented. As a side note, I highly suggest verifying your airlines lost luggage policy. Though I have never had an issue with my firearms(did with the above mentioned fly rod case), the standard limit on coverage may not cover the contents of the case. I've met enough good folks in this game that I am sure I would have no issues borrowing guns for a match should my case get lost, but the thought of having to replace several thousand dollars worth of gear above the covered amount is not a nice thought to have. I highly recommend asking your ticketing agent about adding excess valuation to your checked bags. It cost me less than a meal in the airport and I know I'm fully covered. If I was running open class race guns, I would suggest additional insurance coverages. Hope this helps.

They are pricey, but I have a few of the Kuiu merino wool 1/4 zip base tops. I wear the camo one as my only layer when bow hunting deer in the Arizona desert in August, and the solid colors as a base layer in the cooler months for hunting, fishing, golf, 3 gun, even around the house. They do put them on clearance from time to time, which in when I buy them. I've tranisitoned all of my base layers from cotton or poly to merino(Kuiu or Smartwool), and cant fathom ever going back.