BuckRimfire

I just received some coated 150 grain SWCs to try in my Dan Wesson PM9. These seem to be OK for seating out to 1.17" without raising the case head above the barrel hood, so length is pretty flexible. Looking for accuracy at 50 yards, at least. I might try IHMSA Field Pistol with this gun, so that would be another project to find something that shoots well to 100 yards, but I'll start at 50 and see what happens. Powders I have that might work well are WSF, Power Pistol, Longshot and AA#7.

Thanks. That advice fits with the other info I've found about 9 mm for Bullseye. When the SWCs arrive I'll plunk test them and the HAPs and see how long I can load. Probably I'll give the SWCs a try loaded very light with Trail Boss (because it seemed to work well years ago when I got a super-light spring for my since-sold 10 mm and a trial pack of 140 grain lead bullets and ran them through it) and Hp38, and maybe try the HAPs first with a range of Power Pistol charges since I have no other real plans for PP. It's unclear if my shooting is even CLOSE to good enough to judge whether the loading makes any difference at 50 yards!

What load do you like? I guess I'm going with 124/125 for now (see previous reply).

Thanks. I definitely want to get a .45, but while I have the cash, sneaking a new pistol past my spousal critter isn't as easy since a F#%@ initiative in WA now requires two trips to the FFL for background check and waiting period. In a moment of weakness, I ordered 500 of those coated Missouri 125 grain SWC. What I'm going to load them over, I'm not sure! Appropriate powders that I have enough of to bother working with are Trail Boss, Titegroup, HP-38, Universal, Unique, WSF, and Power Pistol, although barely enough in the case of Unique and WSF (and plenty of Blue Dot and Longshot, but those are probably too slow for this application). I also have 1000 HAP 125s, which are probably a better choice anyway, but they won't make such pretty holes. Guys on the Bullseye-L forum seem to get good results with those, although they say 115 XTPs are the best by a fairly small margin. I'd get some 115 HAPs since I'm FAR to crappy to notice the fraction of an inch difference, but who knows when I'll actually be able to do so. Any idea how fast is fast enough? I probably won't try to go too light at first in any case. I have quite a bit of factory ammo and may want to shoot up some of it. If it was a CZ-type gun, I'd be OK with changing springs at the range, but I'm new to 1911s and I'm not eager to strip it down in public! Could be embarrassing.

Cool. If I score some of those bullets, I'll cross my fingers and hope they cycle OK with that load. I'm just wondering if I should have a different spring on hand if I find otherwise.

I'm mainly interested in Bullseye (Precision Pistol) type shooting with this gun, so I don't care about PF. As long as the bullets make it through the paper in a small group, I'm happy. Semi-wadcutters just make prettier holes in the target. If I could find a coated 125 gr SWC at a reasonable price, I'd use it!

I'm thinking of cooking up some target loads for my Dan Wesson Pointman9 with the 150 grain SWC shown here (when they come into stock): https://www.brazosprecision.com/9mm_c_15.html Probably 3 to 3.2 grains of W321, since that's the fastest powder of which I have a decent amount and if I set my meter to average 3.1 grains, that's the range I'll get. I bought the gun used, but as far as I know it has the original recoil and hammer springs. I've only shot factory ammo, and it runs fine and hasn't broken yet, although I don't have a huge number of rounds through it (a few hundred), so I'm guessing it's box-stock. I don't really want to change the hammer spring. Any guesses as to what weight recoil spring would be best for a load like that? Any chance I'll get lucky and have function with a factory spring? Also, they offer various sizing options. I'll bet anything other than 0.356" would result in longer delays, but if there was a fearless prediction that another size would be best, I'd consider ordering it...

The 10s were aggravating my flinch so I Marie Kondoed their asses a few years ago. I have a lame story about the gun I DIDN’T buy while I was waiting for them to sell, if you want to hear it.

Very interesting. Any idea why that is? Never heard of any problems with RN rifle bullets, although I guess I’ve never used them myself. All my factory 9 mm ammo is RN, 115 and 124, except SD ammo with HSTs. I’ll have to load up some of my HAP 125s and, if I ever achieve a recognizable group at 100 yards, compare them to a few mags of factory RN stuff. Any of the plated 147s worth looking at? I’m willing to buy expensive bullets, but cheap enough not to enjoy it. About the only plated bullet I’ve been completely happy with was Xtreme’s heavy plate concave base RNFP 165 in 10 mm. They don’t seem to make a similar 9 mm bullet. Admittedly, I mostly shot those at 25 yards. Maybe once at 50.

I haven't made it to the range all that often in the last couple of years, and I've been lazy about dry fire practice, too. Also, rams and turkeys are WAY smaller than a bucket!

I'm new to reloading 9 mm. The nicest bullets I have right now are HAP 125 grain. Maybe I could get those to 1200-1250 out of a 5" barrel? Not really wanting to go to the bleeding edge in that gun. Possibly appropriate powders I have now are Longshot, HP-38, Blue Dot, Power Pistol, WSF and AA#7, in decreasing order of the amount on hand. Unfortunately, it's been my observation that the powders I have the least of are the ones that meter most precisely. I was measuring out Longshot a few days ago for .357 Magnum, nominally 7.2 grains, but of the ones I checked the weight on, more than I'd like were 7.1 or 7.3 On the lookout for CFE Pistol, HS-6 (or just more AA#7), maybe AutoComp or Silhouette, but buying more powder right now isn't my top priority.

Irons. It's gonna be ugly!

Looking for a suggestion of an accurate 9 mm load for 100 yard shooting. I'm planning to screw around with a match or two of IHMSA Field Pistol. I'll come in last, but maybe I can hit at least one ram... Open to suggestion of any bullet that might possibly be orderable.

I've about convinced myself that a blue Shadow 2 optic-ready is the thing for me. I'm curious if anyone has ever seen group sizes for these vs. the orange version with the barrel bushing from a Ransom Rest, or other test that would convince you of a difference in "mechanical" accuracy conferred by the addition of the barrel bushing? It's hardly relevant to my choice, since I'm far too poor a bullseye shooter to ever notice the difference, but I'm curious anyway.

So, a factory-new Shadow 2 dropped on the lowered hammer should not go off? Critical issue for me, as I was about to purchase a Shadow 2 DA/SA (original slide) or Shadow 2 OR. No way I'm trusting my life to the idea that I'll never drop the gun or knock it off a bench accidentally!

Very tempting. You're right, I should probably be comparing SAO to SAO, not SAO to SA/DA. I'm not sure I wouldn't rather have the PM9 and $400 worth of ammo, though...

Recently I sold both of my 10 mm pistols, which were cool but not working out for me. The EAA/Tanfo Hunter was nice off a rest, but I could not control my flinch when standing on my hind legs! Looking to go down to a 9 mm. I don't really compete, just want something for casual Bullseye-type shooting with friends (we alternate between one- and two-handed stances, but both in boring old Bullseye match structure). I'm never going to be very good (you should see how much "essential tremor" I have...barf), but I'm somewhat serious about improving enough to stay ahead of my wife, if possible, who just took up shooting a few months ago and is improving rapidly! ;) I doubt I'll get into any run-and-gun games, although stranger things have happened... I abhor the common argument "the gun is more accurate than I can shoot," since even if I can only hold a 4" group at 25 yards, a gun that mechanically shoots 0.75" at that range is going to score me plenty more points than one that shoots 2". (A 0.75" shooter vs. a 1" shooter? Well, yeah, there maybe we're looking at diminishing returns.) My current contenders are the Dan Wesson PM9 and the CZ Custom Shadow. Both are a few bucks more than my ideal price point, but not a problem if they pay off in performance. How do they compare in the following regards? 1. Mechanical accuracy, meaning what the gun does from a Ransom Rest. 2. Practical accuracy, meaning how much difference a barely halfway decent shooter is going to find between them because of things like trigger quality, recoil management, sight radius and other ergonomic factors. 3. Resale value, just in case I decide I made a mistake. The least important issue, but could be a tie-breaker.

I don't have a photo of it now. Silly of me to ask this question when it's out of my hands for a couple of weeks and I can't take photos or make measurements. I'll return when I get it back.

I guess the specific question is whether the Supersight or LPA adjustable sights in the EAA catalog are going to work with my slide. I should have measured the height of the front sight but I'm not going to be able to get my hands on it for 2-3 weeks now.

I have a Wonder Finish Witness with a fixed rear sight (bought Dec 2012, square slide, I think) that has always shot a little low for me at 25 yards. I'd like to play with it at longer ranges on steel targets, up to 100 yards. Is there a replacement adjustable rear sight that won't bottom out too much higher than the factory sight but can go up enough for long range?

I have steel base-model 10 mm Witness that I want to carry hiking, mountain biking, etc. Looking for a simple holster that I can mount inside a bike frame back or fanny pack (or might just buy a fanny pack holster). Is the best bet to get something that is supposed to fit a CZ75?

Yikes! I just logged into Gallery of Guns to look for a 10mm Elite Match, and it looks like the price has been raised $400 since last year?!? Or am I confusing two different models (it just says "Match")? Previously I thought the Elite Match might be too cheap to be good, now it's too high to consider, if that's the same gun. Procrastination has either cost me a lot, or saved me a lot: I guess I'll be getting a Hunter, or nothing. Is EAA able to get so few guns from Tanfoglio that they don't need to sell them quickly, or is every thing still going out the door immediately in panic mode? I'd have bet that increase would really put the brakes on sales.

No thanks on the Last Defence, but that reminds me, I did install the Hennings cone fit guide rod, and a 20 pound Wolff recoil spring. I also got a 6 pound spring which I used with 140 grain tcfp lead bullets over 4 grains of Trail Boss. Those made a neat kitten-tickling load. I only had a little sample pack of those bullets, but I'll get more eventually. They were fun to shoot, and a hell of a lot less distracting than full-on 10 mm! I have zero gunsmithing experience, so tearing into the trigger myself is a little uncertain. I'm not unwilling to getting a few punches, but only to do things that are nearly idiot-proof. I'll read the trigger job link above, but not sure if I'll be able to judge how tricky it is. I certainly don't like things that tend to fly apart and spray parts around the room! Otherwise, the cost of hiring out the gunsmithing would be weighed against just getting a new pistol with the desired characteristics...which obviously would be more expensive, but then: two guns! Beyond the trigger issues, are there thought to be significant differences in the mechanical accuracy (i.e. when in a Ransom Rest) between the various models, or are the upgrades primarily to shoot and reload faster? I know my barrel doesn't lock up completely tight in the slide (at the muzzle). It takes a bit of force to move it up off the bottom of the hole in the front of the slide, but how precisely it returns to that position between shots, I couldn't guess.

I've had a base-model Witness steel frame Wonder Finish in 10 mm for about 2 years now, with something like 500 rounds through it. Mine has the slide with gripping grooves at both the front and rear, not only under the rear sight as in some of the photos I've seen. It's my only centerfire auto, and really the only centerfire auto I've shot more than a handful of rounds through. (I've got a Ruger Mk II and a half-dozen DA revolvers also, from .22 LR to .44 Mag.) When I first got it, I shot it horribly, but I have gotten it under control to the point that I can make groups @ 25 yards not TOO much worse than my .22s. It helps that the trigger pull has smoothed out noticably with use, and if I concentrate for all I'm worth, I can get it to break without disturbing the sights more than is typical for me. I've been drooling over the nicer Tanfos since day one. Of course, I'd *like* one of each, but realistically, I'll be getting zero or one. I'd like to stay with models that can use the mags I already have, if possible. Since I'm most used to shooting DA revolvers, I tend to look seriously only at the DA models, which is a bit pointless, since I have little intention to do anything other than slow-fire punch paper with it (I would keep the WF for possible backwoods carry). "Why 10 mm?" would be an obvious question for range use, to which I would only lamely answer "load fewer calibers" and "I like weird." So, finally, my questions: I'm fairly happy with the accuracy of the WF gun, but I'm sure it could be better. What can be done to tune up the trigger in this gun, and how much difference would you expect between doing that and buying a Stock I for my purposes? What more do you get for moving up to a Limited Pro? And finally, am I a fool for not switching to an SA trigger?