4n2t0

I'll pile on, lol, get a fast(er) powder. If you are going to use AA7 I would load max, which Lee has at 6.9gr. Try Titegroup or something similar (like AA2 as m700 mentioned). You'll get the speed you need at only 4ish grains.

You could check to see if your seating die has a reversable flat/round insert and make sure you're using the correct one. I like to use the round side even with flat nose bullets because I get better consistency but YMMV. To be completely honest, I wouldn't worry about it at all. As long as the OAL is shorter than what your barrels will accept I would just keep loading. I wouldn't waste a bunch of time trying to get perfect consistency, especially when it will have zero effect downrange.

If you set them up properly they'll do exactly what you need them to do. Here's a sample of the discussion that will probably ensue...

Unfortunately people fail too, the internet is riddled with proof. I use a Dillon powder check and wouldn't load without a device like it on a progressive. Personally, I don't see anything wrong with having a mechanical/digital device help back up ones senses (if your setup allows for one).

For minor in USPSA I agree with zzt, none at all.

What powder get "questionable" at a new, often shorter, OAL? In fact, even compressed loads are often very accurate. Also, why not just load absolutely anything to 1.08? I understand if the round doesn't chamber because of some weird case bulging situation but it seems that shooters are just plain scared of short(er) OAL's which seems odd to me. Don't take my word for it...

I've been loading a particular 147gr bullet to 1.08 for my Shadows without any worries whatsoever for years. I do gauge all my rounds in a hundo. I'm not sure why it would be necessary to ream the barrel. Convenient, yes, necessary, no, at least not in my opinion, but I guess it depends on the components one chooses to load.

Good to know, thanks.

The problem is usually in the diameter, at least in the SPP. I don't load rifle so I wouldn't know anything about rifle primers.

So silly people, not silly dies...lol.

The CamPro's are Ginex primers originally imported into Canada. Your mainspring and proper seating of the primers are the likely culprits. These primers are a little oversized and make that wonderful crunching noise when I seat them. I push hard on my 650 to seat them really well. My modified 66 is the only gun that will not set these primers off (Federal only). P.S. $39 CAD ($29 USD) per 1K many years ago. I still have billions of primers, lol. Since they're not milk I just kept buying when they were cheap no matter the brand.

Why is a combo seat/crimp die silly?

Yes but someone will come along and convince you that another die is required and you'll believe them because buying more useless $hit is mysteriously gratifiying, lol.

Clean the die of any brass galling and/or smooth out any burrs that might exist.

MBF powder funnel.

Quickly sort through your range brass and only load domestic brands (Winchester, Federal, Remington etc.). Toss anything that's crimped, stepped or foreign. I'm not suggesting that foreign brass isn't good but culling them should nearly eliminate all brass related problems (crimped and or tight pockets, thick brass etc.).

No doubt! Cheers!

Now can you do that freehand HOGRIDER? lol. OP: Titegroup, despite all the interweb hate it always produces the best groups for me. I've tried many but keep coming back to Titegroup because it's cheap. versatile and it performs better than most other powders. I also really like WSF and WST but they're getting more expensive and difficult to find up here in the Great White North.

I use S&B SPP regularly. I was that person who bought a lot more when they were cheap, lol. They're definitely less sensitive than Federal and Winchester primers. In my opinion they're a near perfect replacement for CCI in terms of sensitivity but YMMV.

Everything's going to be pretty similar. If you're currently producing rounds with specs that you're happy with use one of those rounds as a guide to get the seating die as close as possible. You'll need to set a "zero" as per the instructions. Setting crimp is fairly easy, you're looking for .377-.379 at the case mouth depending on bullet type. Any specific reason for the change? I really like Dillon dies and haven't found a need for change yet.

Ok.

Ok but I'm not sure how asking for someone's OAL is going to help you. The ammo has to work in your firearm, not ours and other than functioning OAL doesn't significantly impact any other factors in handgun ammo (accuracy, velocity etc.)

I'm confused, haven't you already answered your own question? 1.09x is definitely under 1.125 and with the same weight bullet, powder, primer etc. I'd expect similar results.

So they're worthless, lol.

Again, Hundo!