4n2t0

There are no dumb questions. Short answer: No, there is no minimal "accepted" seating depth. Long(er) nuanced answer: Obviously you should try to avoid what would clearly be ridiculous, like these: Even the above .40 S&W cartridges were fired safely!, although a mallet was required to close the slide because of the extreme bulge near the base, lol. So, if they plunk & spin in your barrel(s), cycle properly, and fit in the magazine you can load them as short or long as your heart desires. Again, as long as you're using published data for the powder charge weights.

I load a ton of TG with plated bullets (no smoke) but I only load coated in .38 with WST, so I can't speak towards your specific issue. Over the years I've seen many member on here state that the coatings application, cure, and thickness might matter. I'm sure someone will chime in shortly to help but I would always buy a smaller sample size to test first before you back up the truck.

That information is useless.

Always determine your own OAL, never use the OAL's listed in manuals or data. You can make them any OAL that works, with min to max charge weights, as long as you're using published data. Remember, always check your barrel(s) (plunk & spin).

There you have it OP. No need to guess or let someone else assume the size for you.

Maybe you were a little unlucky? Because they've seated properly for me thousands of times and I've never swaged a pocket in my life. Are they somewhat difficult to seat? Sure, but so are some other brands (I'm looking at you S&B, lol).

It might not be the opinion you're looking for, but it seems like a complete waste of money to me.

In order of likelihood...no powder, bad primer, moist powder, horrendous bullet seal. No powder accounts for the vast majority of squibs, so that's probably the culprit. Are you loading on a Dillon? If so, is there a problem with the failsafe rod? Regardless, you sound like a prime candidate for a powder check system. I use one myself, won't load without it, so please don't think I'm mocking you.

You probably had a bad batch of primers or something else went wrong. Primers, foreign or domestic, simply don't move the needle all that much with pistol loads. Now, I guess if you were loading to barely allow the slide to return and the primer dropped it slightly further than maybe??? but that doesn't sound likely. I've loaded Fiocchi primers, with various powder, for years and have never experienced anything like you mentioned. In fact, I've never had a primer, of any make, be the reason a load went from good to jam but that's just my personal experience with all the primers I've loaded (all domestic brands and Fiocchi, S&B, Ginex, and Wolf/Tula for foreign)

+1

I use a high-tech low-cost tool, a table. Rounds with high primers will wobble when placed bullet to the sky on a hard flat surface.

Is there something down there? Something in the threads? Something under the shellplate? Something under the bolt head? Anything that would keep the bolt from grabbing threads on continuing to be threaded? Did this problem always exist? When did the problem start? After a spill or some other kind of incident/malfunction? I'd ask and answer all those for myself before I go rethreading anything. P.S. Your instinct to not force anything is a good one. Things should just work or there's usually something wrong. Nothing good comes from excessive force (at least in this situation, lol).

I solved that problem with an old wrench and a grinder.

Thanks but I don't need it because the primers rarely leave the ski jump. I meant that sometimes things don't go perfectly (crimped primers, missing/poorly placed case etc.) and I get a few unused primers in the ski jump. Also, it probably wouldn't be all that hard to drill a hole into the original OEM part and come up with something to capture/contain the primers for pennies.

You guys beat me to the ignition source question because it definitely wasn't from the cases rubbing together. Static electricity from somewhere (maybe even from the the case feed bowl) or the electric motor were my thoughts as well. Moral of the story for me...don't apply One Shot in the case feeder. I use a cardboard box and I allow the carrier solvent to evaporate.

I preferer the disc primer system on my 650. I've never experienced a detonation but I've heard and seen that they can happen. I keep my press super clean and it rewards me with near flawless operation, although nothing's perfect. I have never done any of the mods because I don't find them to be necessary. Do I get the occasion primer down the "ski jump", sure, but that's around 1-3 per 2-3K. I stop most issues from occurring by loading with a medium-fast rhythm and watching the case drop where most problems start.

This...

900K, lol, good luck to you. Call me skeptical, but not being able to find anything, zero, zilch, nada on the internet about the manufacturer sounds the alarm bells for me. Deal of a lifetime OR the biggest mistake ever, let us know which it ends up being.

Never heard of them. The only thing I could find that links them to any type of manufacturer is the following statement: "The Klimovsk Specialized Ammunition Plant in Klimovsk, Russia has been producing ammunition for the military, sport, and hunting market since it's founding in 1936. In addition to more than 80 years of military contract production, KSPZ has been making private label ammunition for many of the biggest names in the market." Maybe someone with more experience will chime in shortly. Personally, I would buy a small sample and see how well they perform before purchasing a boat load. Also, as a general warning (perhaps not directly related to this specific product) be careful will scam website selling very cheap primers. If it sounds too good to be true....

Yup, it has been seen before. People have tried fixes with varying degrees of success (red loctite, silver solder, epoxy, machining the parts etc.). I would ask Lyman to replace the die free of charge.

Crimped primers (I don't use Mag-Tech cases, so I wouldn't know) or ....... If it is primer "suck back" reshaping the extraction pin, as suggested by other members, usually does the trick. Also, if you can afford to do so, I would discard the Mag-Tech cases altogether.

That's more inline with what I was taught/learned. I really am willing to learn but so far I haven't heard anything compelling from zzt that changes my perception of recoil. All he's done so far is try to blame me for not understanding or convoluting the conversation. All else being equal, two different bullet weights (same construction), loaded with the same powder (with the heavier bullet always needing less powder to achieve the same PF), loaded to the same PF should result in the heavier bullet producing less recoil. I could still be wrong and I'm willing to admit it because that's how we learn, but someone would have to explain how the above statement does not hold water.

All my numbers are in post 4 and I provided the charge weights, 4.1gr for 124gr, 3.6gr 147gr.

But you replied directly to me when I ask you a question. Remember? Same PF, same powder? Then you posted a formula which I'm still trying to figure out how it answers my question. Also, if you were talking about the OPs load how could you make that determination? I thought you needed the powder charge weights? Which weren't provided. That's what you said. Besides, this hardly sounds like you're talking about the OP's data: "Many shooters prefer the 147gr load, because it 'feels' softer. It actually has more recoil, but the pulse is spread out over a longer time." I guess "many shooters" is a substitute for OP's data with unknown charge weights? You are the one squirming here, not me...