Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

4n2t0

Classifieds
  • Posts

    774
  • Joined

Posts posted by 4n2t0

  1. 21 minutes ago, Dr. Phil said:

    Sorry, guys, just messing with ya...

     

    lmao, no worries here, I found it to be thoroughly entertaining.

     

    No round 2 or any other rounds for me. I try my best not to get sucked in to these things, but some people make it very difficult. Maybe I just need to stop spending so much time on these types of forums and keep more to myself. That's probably the best path forward.

  2. 19 hours ago, ysrracer said:

    Blah blah blah, I load coated, plated, and jacketed bullets all the same.

     

    Granted I've only load a couple of hundred thousand rounds, but so far so good.

     

    What exactly is blah, blah, blah supposed to mean? Who cares what you do, the OP asked for a coated load at minor and you provided useless FMJ data.

     

    P.S. Many of us have tons of loading experience, but only those of us that are insecure need to tell everyone all the time.

  3. 8 hours ago, ysrracer said:

    Screenshot_20240415-215937.thumb.png.229e8600cba8c704d008687ad7aa9b55.png

     

    On 4/11/2024 at 2:01 PM, Skytrooper said:

    I am getting a few hundred 147G round nosed coated bullets from Summit City to try. I am wondering what powder load works good for Minor PF ?  Obviously there are more factors to consider, but I am looking for a good starting point. Thanks

     

  4. OP: I'm not sure if the search is working for you, but it hasn't worked for me in a while. I searched this forum externally for you. Here are some of the results:

     

    *Remember, 231/HP-38 are the exact same powder in different containers.

     

     

  5. The more I read about the 92x the worse it gets. Lots of stuff on the internet about FTF, magazine issues, it being ammo picky etc. Sorry, I don't mean to piss on your parade, I was trying to stumble upon a solution for you.

     

    Hopefully one of the other members can help shed some like on the situation.

  6. Interesting. Given that information, have you tried longer? Like 1.155? If the magazine will accept that length or longer. I'm only asking now because maybe the bullet's nose is too short, but by adding some length it might stop it from wedging itself in the barrel? Doubt it but now I'm throwing darts, lol.

     

    Does it look like this?

     

    image.thumb.jpeg.61b85fe83167942efc9521597bff1aee.jpeg

     

    Or is it getting hung up on the feed ramp before entering the barrel?

     

    Maybe the feed ramp plain doesn't like something about that bullet's profile. Kinda weird though. I'll let others with more Beretta experience chime in when it comes to Berettas and profile pickiness. Hey, it could be the crimp, but I would be shocked, no amazed, if that was the case, since you're not above .380.

     

    I'm super interested in finding out the cause of your problems, so make sure to update this thread when you figure it out.

  7. 21 hours ago, Abominator said:

    That's exactly what I did. I have several rounds at different OAL each with light and "heavy" taper crimp versions.

     

    Be looking to test this weekend hopefully. 

     

    I could be completely wrong, but it looks and sounds like you're throwing darts when deciding on an OAL. Load a dummy round really long and continue to shorten the round until in plunks and spins in the barrel. Yes, remove the barrel and use it to determine the max OAL.

     

    Maybe you've done this and I missed it. If so, I'm sorry, but you keep saying things like 1.10 and 1.135. Why not 1.09? 1.08? 1.07? like I suggested previously? Ammo can still be long at 1.10. I'm not saying 100% that this is the problem, but without performing the steps above you'll never know. I can tell you this, the crimp, unless it's stupidly out of spec (should be roughly .376-.379 at the case mouth) isn't your problem. Maybe it's a magazine problem? Or something else mechanical? Maybe the feed ramp doesn't like that specific bullet profile? All I know is that it's highly unlikely that you're getting FTF's because of your crimp.

     

     

    DetermineOAL.gif.46de702abe4117f6f5149f287a4234f0.gif

  8. It's a good question Joe4d. None of the above, lol.

     

    I'll be shooting these through a S&W 66 in a non-competitive setting (plinking fun, plate rack, steel etc.). I want cleaner ejection. The special cases get stuck near the frame. I'm only going to make up 50 or so, from useless Hornady FTX cases, to see if it works out. If not, I might stay with specials or give mid colt/short colt with a RN bullet a try.

     

    P.S. I'm middle-aged, childless, and single. What else am I going to do with my time?

  9. I might not be as stupid as I first thought (or maybe just half as stupid). My Dillon seating die (not a combo die) definitely de-flares the casemouth when I flare too much. You can hear the casemouth scraping against the sidewalls of the die before the bullet gets seated. e.g. Test cases flared to .3885 and .3930 got de-flared to .3825, which seemed like the maximum flare the die would accept. ddc's comment lit the little light bulb in my pea-brain. Since the bullets mic at .358 this shouldn't be a problem? So I flared to .3875, but the bullets still got shaved. Why? Well, I think the real issue is that the sizing die does its job too well! The sizing is so aggressive that it looks like the base and sides of the bullets are getting shaved when they're being seated. This, along with the seating die de-flaring the casemouth while simultaneously seating the bullet can't be a good thing. I'm using a MBF powder funnel, so the bullets are centred. I could try a different sizing and or seating die(s) but I think it's cheaper to just give up on the coated bullets and go back to plated bullets.

  10. On 3/17/2024 at 10:44 AM, JTinMO said:

    Did you try tightening the shell plate down solid (may need to remove the ball and spring), like to where it can’t rotate, and try to size a piece?  I think that would show if the base frame and shell plate are square to your tool head.  Basically eliminate any potential of the shell plate tilting at all anywhere.  
     

    from the pics your brass tilting is the issue, and not really something an alignment kit will fix necessarily.  If your brass was straight vertically and hitting off center in the die, then the alignment kit can fix that and bring everything back in line.  I don’t think it will fix a tilt issue.  It’s almost like you have something under your shell plate causing a tilt.  

     

    I tried this, and it looks like the shellplate might not be square to the tool head. The platform screws are tight, but there is rotational slop in the bare platform if I grab it from the casefeed slide end and wiggle. All the slop disappears when the shellplate and shellplate bolt are installed, so maybe that slop is normal, but I don't have anything to compare.

     

    Dillon is sending two alignment tools (platform and casefeed???). They want me to dismantle the press, check the platform for cracks/wear, and then clean/reassemble/align. It might take a while since I'm in Canada, but I'll let you guys know how everything works out (or not).

     

    P.S. I've currently got a few K of all the calibres I shoot loaded, so I should be good until the first aid kit arrives.

  11. Thanks for the info everyone. I'm waiting for a trimmer to arrive so I can chop my specials to long colt. I'll start with the .38/.357 dies and see if they'll reach. I'll be loading a coated 158gr SWC.

     

    I'll update this thread sometime next week with my results (or lack thereof).

  12. Sorry, the search on this site still seems to be broken. I couldn't even find the information querying the forum externally (site: www.brianenos.com long+colt).

     

    Will standard .38/.357 Dillon dies, on a Dillon 650, seat and crimp .38 long colt? Or will I need 9mm seat and crimp dies? I have both, but I'd prefer not to have to constantly swap dies around.

  13. 2 hours ago, JTinMO said:

    Did you try tightening the shell plate down solid (may need to remove the ball and spring), like to where it can’t rotate, and try to size a piece?  I think that would show if the base frame and shell plate are square to your tool head.  Basically eliminate any potential of the shell plate tilting at all anywhere.  
     

    from the pics your brass tilting is the issue, and not really something an alignment kit will fix necessarily.  If your brass was straight vertically and hitting off center in the die, then the alignment kit can fix that and bring everything back in line.  I don’t think it will fix a tilt issue.  It’s almost like you have something under your shell plate causing a tilt.  

     

    This is a great idea! I would have never assumed that the platform itself might be canted. I'm "meticulously anal" and most would think that my 10+ year old 650 was still brand new, which helps reduce most user induced issues. I really know/understand this machine well. I might have to just start thinking about mechanical failure in the frame/ram/platform. I might also have to setup a camera and record myself reloading in an attempt to see exactly when or how the cases get tilted.

×
×
  • Create New...