RAP

I have an after market tungsten guide rod with a 14 pound recoil spring. I can tell the difference between the factory reduced recoil spring and the 14 pound after market spring. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use tungsten guide rod from W74. They are made for the Canik TP9SFx. I have 2 of them. 1 in my practice gun and 1 in my match gun. You use commander 1911 springs. I have about 5,000 rounds on my practice gun since installed with no problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In my previous life when I used to shoot longe range. I would weigh each individual charge. I would use a powder trickle to get each charge as close as possible. Use a very good scale and scale weights to verify scale accuracy. Since your friend is using a 308. Bullet selection is going to be critical. A 1000 meters is pushing the limits of a 308. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have done OAL for my 40 S&W and 9 mm. This was done out of curiosity. If I remember correctly I had a variation somewhere in the neighborhood of +/- .007” for my own cast bullets. I also separated into a couple groups, shortest OAL and longest OAL to see if there was an effect on accuracy. I saw no discernible difference in accuracy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I like Ben Stoeger’s Dry Fire Reloaded. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, and they shoot great.

How many coats are you putting on? I put 3 thin coats and that has been better then 1 heavy coat Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have cast and coated my 9mm and 40 S&W for years. First, have you slugged your bore? One of my 9’s bore slugged .356 so I needed to size .357. .357 worked in all my 9’s. Second I would check to make sure your crimp isn’t too much. I would pull a bullet or 2 to ensure your crimp is not damaging the coating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is going to be barrel/gun dependent. I have shot both .400” and .401” diameter bullets through my .40 cal Limited Gun. I could not tell a difference in accuracy between the diameters. These bullets are my own cast bullets so the only difference was diameter after sizing. My barrel slugged .395”. I ended up sizing to .400”. I suggest give them a try. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From the picture it looks like a legitimate call. The area marked in red is what I’m basing this on. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

This is my load with Blue Bullets. My goto powder for 9mm and 40 is Alliant Sport Pistol. Meters very well, clean and is plenty accurate. This load will get me a 2” group at 25 yards with a rest. Created: 12/20/19 01:59 PM Description: TP9sfx 147 FP Blue Bullets Notes 1: 3.3 grains SP Fed SPP Notes 2: Distance to Chrono(FT): 15.00 Ballistic Coefficient: 145.000 Bullet Weight(gr): 147.00 Temp: 57 °F BP: 1023.14 inHg Altitude: 800.00 # FPS FT-LBS PF 15 930 282.36 136.71 14 920 276.32 135.24 13 924 278.73 135.83 12 936 286.01 137.59 11 924 278.73 135.83 10 925 279.33 135.98 9 937 286.62 137.74 8 915 273.32 134.51 7 931 282.96 136.86 6 926 279.93 136.12 5 925 279.33 135.98 4 930 282.36 136.71 3 926 279.93 136.12 2 930 282.36 136.71 1 916 273.92 134.65 Average: 926.3 FPS SD: 6.3 FPS Min: 915 FPS Max: 937 FPS Spread: 22 FPS Shot/sec: 0.4 True MV: 926 FPS Group Size (in): 0.00 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I would contact Jared at Arsenal Molds. Jared made me 2 custom molds. First was a 180 grain no lube groove 40 cal. Second was a 147 grain no lube groove in 9mm. Both molds are fantastic. If you have a specific bullet design that is not currently made Jared will work with you too make it for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a similar issue to the OP when I first started. I was getting very frustrated because of the lack of progress. I broke the entire process into micro drills without a timer. I would work on just grabbing the magazine; with a focus on properly gripping the mag. Once I felt I had the technique of gripping the magazine adequately down I moved to gripping the magazine and moving it to the magwell. Again, I would do this until I felt like I had this adequately accomplished. Next I would grip the mag and insert it into the gun. I did this until I felt I was adequately confident. When I felt like I had these techniques down I would do a complete reload without a timer. I did this until I was confident in my techniques. Speed was not on my radar, however, I was getting faster as I improved without trying too. Once I was confident I started using a timer. It took me about 3 months to get below a 2 second reload consistently. Below 2 seconds was 1.9 - 1.8 seconds. Yes, it took awhile but I also learned to breakdown my reload and help me understand what I was doing right and what I was doing wrong and needed to change.

If I’m understanding your question. I can answer by saying; I have cast and coated thousands of 9 mm and 40 cal. with HI TEK coating. I always size after the final coating. If the coating is done correctly it will not come off. I do spray a little bit of case lube on the newly coated bullets before I size them just to make it easier. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have and shoot the CanikTP9SFx in carry optics. It comes with a match grade barrel and a good trigger from the factory. Mine will shoot 2” groups at 25 yards with ammo it likes. I did up grade my trigger with a freedomsmith trigger. I have no regrets with this handgun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the same issue as the OP. I have a lot of C’s and D’s low and slightly to the left. This was very frustrating an cost points during a match. I discovered 2 drills through Ben Stoeger class I am doing. These 2 drills that have helped me make marked improvement. One is Ben Stoeger Double Drill the other is a dry fire drill to develop trigger control at speed. Doubles is a simple live fire drill. Put a target at 5-7 yards and fire pairs of aimed shots as fast as you can. Don’t worry about draw speed, you need to focus on sights and pulling the trigger straight back. Be careful that you don’t turn this drill into a Bill Drill. It should be something like Bang, bang - pause - bang, bang - pause, etc. Trigger control at speed is a great dry fire drill and was a huge eye opener. Set your timer on random point your firearm at a blank wall or target and when the timer beeps pull the trigger before the deep ends and watch your sights. For me, doing this drill I saw my dot going low and slightly left. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My goals are: 1) Makes Master Class. Currently Mid A Class in CO. 2) Improve on shooting sooner going into positions. And exiting quicker. 3) Improve my reloads. 4) Improve my A’s to C’s ratio. Currently I average about 75% A’s at a match. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, CO should have its own sub forum Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I shot this at my local match earlier this month. I think this is a fun classifier. Time 16.13 A’s - 12 C’s - 3 D’s - 1 HF 4.3344 78.9796% Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Have you tried these to strengthen your hips/groin? Ball Bridges Hip Hikers Straight Leg Raises Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cool! I think your gonna really like the Freedom Smith trigger. BTW, I have 8,000 rounds though my Canik TP9Sfx. I have had zero malfunctions from the gun. My 1 and only malfunction was caused from a dirt filled magazine that I knew I should of cleaned before my next stage but I didn’t. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am very sorry for the confusion. I measured mine and its diameter measured 4.28 mm. I was told by a guy at Cabela’s it was a #2/0 (2 ought) I looked on Bass Pro’s website and they show this to be a #1. Forgive me for steering you wrong. Go with #1 split ring at Bass Pro. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sorry, yes 2/0 split ring. The picture shows where the split ring goes. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Usually at bass pro/ Cabelas some fishing supply store. Amazon has a zillion. I went to my tackle box and took a small split ring from an old fishing lure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because of the geometry of the Freedom Smith trigger it stretches the return spring putting additional tension on the spring. By adding a 2mm split ring it adds additional length to the spring allowing it to return to its normal relaxed length. If I was home I would take a picture to show. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk