Polymer

What exact gun do you have and what are you trying to accomplish

Most usually like the lighter 124/135gr on metal guns. I shoot 147gr just because i shoot that in other guns and don't like reloading different loads

Holy s#!t, that's a miracle. Glad you were taken care of and hopefully their customer service truly has improved over the years.

What gun are you using

GX holster. Also, i believe holster shouldn't matter small frame vs large frame for the steel guns.

I would definitely contact IFG. I was told their customer service/warranty isn't great. EAA was terrible when they were the importer of tanfoglio.

As far as i know, it's on the newer slide serration guns.

Thank you guys for your inputs.

@tedahlenius85 very good info, thanks!

Have any of you stroked a stock 2 or own a newer one that is stroked from the factory and can tell a difference?

Historically the hard chrome is very durable. My experience with one of my older stock 2, about 6 yrs old, high mileage, beat to s#!t, the only rust area is around mag well. Other areas of high contact show wear and scratches but I have not seen rust. I do zero care regarding taking care of finish. I know nothing about the other finishes.

Does hammer not cock at all or won't cock all the way back? Make sure hammer strut is installed correctly. Hammer spring should never require fitting. If so, the hammer spring is unusually long with you having shallow hammer spring pocket in gun which happens due to gun tolerances/poor quality control. It can also happen with unica sear and unica hammer. What parts do you have?

Are you putting a disc into the large hole in slide so the narrow set screw pushes into that and not the slide?

If you didn't know, with ten pound hammer spring it'll be pretty much federal primers only.

The reset is fine for practical shooting but again I'm not super picky about reset, zero overtravel, etc. Reliability, smoothness, etc is what matters. Do legit polish job with one piece sear and spring swap. Shoot it and see how you like it. If not, all you would have to do next is fit the interrupter. In my experience, the biggest difference fitting interrupter helps is eliminating pretravel in single action. It does make reset shorter and sometimes smoother pull in DA.

I would try and use the R5 interrupter. It will require the least amount of fitting.

The longer reset with stock disco/interrupter is no factor. Slightly less rearward travel of hammer in double action using bolo. Additional hammer spring weight does help and I do feel it is necessary, as in increasing hammer spring by like 1 pound. This part is really experimentation with your gun set up and ammo.

I have done it. Had to take a significant amount off the curve of the bolo when fitting for single action. Bolo almost looks like the stock interrupter/disconnecter but retaining the curvature where material is taken off.

Short reset disco as in the Patriot defense bolo?

Similar profile/thickness as the factory wood grips. They also have palm swell. Lok will custom make grips slightly thicker upon request. https://lokgrips.com/tanfoglio/standard/tanfoglio-standard/ Patriot defense high palm swell grips. https://patriotdefense.com/patriot-defense-tanfoglio-palm-swell-high-grips-full-size-aluminum/

Do everything in that video. With spring swap and legit polish job, it should take trigger to 90 percent. The last ten would be new parts such as hammer, interrupter, fitting, etc. I know nothing about idpa so make sure it still is in line with the division you want to be in. I don't know what holster requirements you need. The Henning kit is outdated. PD or Henning guide rod Recoil spring for your ammo, usually 10 lbs PD extractor spring PD firing pin spring PD trigger return spring PD sear spring PD hammer spring for your ammo/primers. CGW phantom floating trigger pin One piece sear.... Which i think the limited pro may already have. That's what's comes to mind, I'm sure I missed something. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2tf_jmfLzq0

How proficient are you when it comes to tearing gun completely apart/working on firearms?

Did the spring look like that before installing? It has to be some bad ones you're getting. I've gotten bad springs before.

Are you using a slave pin like at the 6 min mark of video? Pliers can mangle spring if done too aggressive. Long leg of spring on frame and short leg in trigger? When new, the legs of spring should be closer together vs the one you have pictured. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MK7j3fD3H2Y&t=250s&pp=ygUQbWVtcGhpcyBtZWNoYW5pYw%3D%3D

Check hammer hooks and sear where it contacts hammer hooks. Both should have defined edge and not rounded/worn.