MilkMyDuds

Yes i can lower the grip to reach the DA trigger, but it would destroy the high grip. The pics show if I lower my grip, the distance from the beavertail to the trigger will be a horizontal line thus is less. With the highest grip possible (e.g. pressing your webbing into the beavertail), there is a bit more distance from the webbing to the trigger because it is more a diagonal line.

Here is the cut feeling I was referring to. I think it is because of the sharp profile of the beavertail on CZ vs. the round profile on my current platform (MP9s). Overtime I believe I should be able to overcome it once the callus forms.

Good to know! Here is how my finger looks like if I grip as high as possible. If I do relax a bit to let the grip lower a bit, then I could reach the trigger with the middle of my finger's 1st pad.

I know Tori shoots Glock and Julie MP9s. What about others? I ask because I realize that my hands are small enough not being able to reach the trigger reach on CZ Shadow. It strikes me that I rarely see any lady shooters using CZ/Tanfos. So I am curious maybe that has turned away all the "lady hands" away from these long trigger reach guns...

I got the 85 combat new style trigger that already has the same profile as the recurve trigger. Just called Stuart and confirmed that. Any other tips to help reduce the trigger reach? Also, does anyone else feel the cutting pain of the beavertail on the webbing of your hands when you grip as high as possible? Anyway to dull that pain (short of bandits, etc.)?

No, I have to rotate my strong hand to reach the mag release, even the LF arms extended mag release (just less rotation needed).

I got the czc thin aluminum grips. I tried the vz diamondbacks and they are a bit thicker. The only option I could find online is the CGW reach reduction kit, but it would render the gun production illegal. Seems CZs not compatible with small hands/shot fingers.

Just got the new CZ SP01 Shadow from CZC. Love nearly all aspects of the gun except 2 things: 1. With the webbing tightly pressed on the beaver tail, my trigger finger could barely reach the trigger. I had Stuart install the pre B combat trigger. I think it has the very short reset, but it did not help the first DA pull. With only the tip of my trigger finger on the trigger, the first DA pull is wobbly as hell. I know my hands are really small, 6.5 inches from the tip of my middle finger to the base of my palm. Did anyone else have this issue? How to train to overcome this problem? 2. Still with the webbing firmly pressed upon the beaver tail, the thumb is pretty much "cut" at the base, because the beaver tail is thin and sharp. Coming from MP9 where the beaver tail is round and smooth and plastic all that, the skin in that area is already gone after 50 rounds or so on the CZ. I have to put a bandit on to continue. I know break-in is required for any new platform. Is there any workaround or training I can do to help? Thanks for your input.

Any ideas? If not possible, would it work if I simply swap in the CORE slide on my Pro frame? I have 2 Pro 5'' for IDPA/USPSA but did not expect to use optics originally, until the recently announced "Carry Optics" division.

I have the smallest hands among grown men I ever met. Tip of my middle finger to the base of my palm is merely 6.5 inches. My kids have bigger hands than I do. With my short thumbs, MP9 with small backstrap is the most comfortable to reach various buttons, such as mag release and slide stop. G34 gen 4 without any backstrap grip feels OK but the mag release is too hard to reach.

Yes my finished rounds are still sticky next day. I need to reduce the amount Dillon lube I use. A couple more range visits since last time, I found it is most likely my chrono's acting up, or maybe I tilted it a bit in my previous testing setups. I could not detect obvious differences between lubed vs non-lubed batches after I started using a better tripod with a level bubble. It helps to make sure the chrono is level. Thanks for that great article linked above.

Thanks for the info. I gota try N320 sometime. I heard it is identical to titegroup as far as powder weight goes. 3gr N320 = 3gr Titegroup, right?

Is N320 much cleaner, or the felt recoil is different? Let's say vs. Titegroup? I have access to N320 but I never bothered to buy them because for $15 less per lb I can get Titegroup that works well for me, except it runs a bit dirty...

I measured my 5'' pro and got 7.25'' as sight radius with stock front/rear sights.

OP, I used to have the same problem as you do. Visualization helps, but only to certain degree for me. Even after I got my Master in SSP I still sometimes forget targets in some stages, stages with true vision barriers most of the times, and especially when I am the first or second shooter for the stage. I find mesh walls are much easier to deal with simply because you can see through, while true solid walls/objects can be really hazardous for me. Now I visualize 40 times before my turn (I heard Max M. usually visualizes a stage 30 times to be sure). Yet I think some brains are wired a bit differently such that without truly going through it at least once for real, visualization alone is not the silver bullet. IDPA makes it worse because you cannot air gun the stages as in USPSA. I really don't have any effective way to imprint stage execution into my brain at this point of time. As a result, my conscious mind often walks away from purely shot calling to help facilitate state execution, which is not optimal. I know 10,000 repetitions can product enough myelin and then your subconscious will take over from there. However, in reality when you have 3 min to walk the stage and maybe 1-2 min more time before the buzzer goes off, 30-40 visualizations are probably the most you can squeeze in there. It also shows memory capability is a major factor in this sport.

I did not notice big differences in group size on targets, nor felt recoil. I started suspecting my chrono may be acting up, though it gave the same MV readings for non-lubed across different visits, and same for lubed. I guess next visit I will test lubed first then non-lubed see if the chrono's reading varies based on how long it sits under the Texas sun.

Crimp die on 650 is sitting on the furthest corner where accidental touch on the turn knob on top (I use Lee) is the least possible. And besides, I load 100 lubed cases and 100 non-lubed cases within one sitting, the chance of any die setting change is almost nil. In addition, I did 3 such sittings over the span of 2 weeks, and yielded same results. This excludes the possibility of any die setting changes. The only action I perform in between lubed and non-lubed is to load brass into case feeder. I don't see how that could consistently change my die setting (then change back next time I load non-lubed brass into the feeder)?

Testing were done on 3 different range visits since I got my 650. Temp should not be a factor as the non-lubed and lubed groups average has been very consistent across 3 visits within the same group. I took 10 shots averages but did not calculate standard deviations, because the MVs vary very little (thanks to Dillon's powder measure) in the 5-10 FPS range. There is no OAL change, nothing changed. I double checked all the dies as tight as they can be with the Hornady lock rings. I am very puzzled what else could have been. I have been using the same 4lbs Titegroup bottle for the past couple months. I did the comparison specifically to find out if I can get away from cleaning case lube from finished rounds in an attempt to minimize the overhead in reloading. I posted in another topic asking if people usually wipe off case lube for 9mm, and most folks answered unless it's ammo for major matches they do not. I was simply curious what case lube can do on finished rounds. Did anyone else do the same experiment? Please try it and let me know what you find out.

I recently started using Dillon case lube (spray bottle) for my 9mm reloading. It has made the loading much easier on both SDB and 650. However, I am also noticing that while everything else stayed the same, muzzle velocity has increased from 880fps to 910fps (I am shooting 147gr bullet making 130PF). The only thing that changed is that I have started using Dillon case lube, which I know is a lanolin/alcohol based lube. I applied lube as instructions say. I spray a couple times onto 200 cases laying side ways inside a zipbag then roll and shake them for 20 seconds. I do not clean up the lube on the finished rounds. Did anyone else notice this? How could case lube increase MV? Could it be somehow some lube got into the neck of the cases? If that's the case, how one can avoid it? Thanks.

Excellent. Thanks sir!

Thanks. Does anyone know if the APEX striker spring is also 4lbs? The wolff one is the same length as the stock, while APEX is about 15% longer. Thanks.

Does anyone know where to buy just the striker spring used in APEX competition kit? I know there is a "APEX Spring Kit" for $30 that has trigger return spring, striker spring and sear spring. However, I don't change other springs as often as the striker spring. As a result, I have already had 3 trigger return spring and sear springs sitting on the shelf. I wonder if there is a place I can buy just the striker spring? I bought the wolf reduced striker spring (for competition - 4 lbs) but noticed it is much shorter than the APEX one. I did not put it in to try yet. Did anyone try this? Did it work with APEX competition kit? Thanks.

Looks like you smoked the prod pretty bad more like open

Is this the "Target II" that people have been talking about? How durable the adjustable rear is? Anyone has first-hand experience with them?

I am curious how the 6lbs modded DA pull can be lighter than a 2.5lbs APEX MP9 trigger...