amada8

Related topic...... does corn cob tumbling after making the cartridge affect the bullet if HiTek or similar?

ML123, I agree that you should get some One Shot case lube. Also agree you should get a Shockbottle hundo. Safety=peace-of-mind. Also glad you did not spend (for now) money on a bullet feeder. THAT day will come...but for now, loading a bullet onto every shell offers the eyes a chance to see powder in the case AND do a quick inspect of the case itself for cracks. My advise....I don't think mentioned here.... don't overfill your casefeeder. I tend to STILL lube about 150 at a time in 9mm and toss em into the hopper. Without an auto-load primer set up, you have to take breaks anyway. A noob reloader should never be in a hurry. Also if you have lubed cases sitting in the hopper for any length of time, the One Shot is likely to become a dust magnet imo. Empty after each use; I tend to finish sessions when cases are low in the tube, none in the hopper.

I have been a precision sheet metal mechanic for 40 years. Never used anything but Mitutoyo, though I did have a Starrett at one time. Dials over digital 100%

Properly adjusted camming pin? (pin that rides on the black plastic block-ish ramp)

Audio works fine for me, mjohn

Had this happen recently on my 650XL. But.... not a Dillon issue for me. The after-market (used primer bushing and tube) part was not totally flush to exit hole...and when a few primers got hung up, the chute filled quickly.

An analog (dial) Mitu lasts forever. (My current workhorse 12" dial Mitu is roughly 30 years old and going strong). I've had mechanics that work with me toss em around all day long for years without anything more than a scuffed up crystal. The same can not be said about a $20 digital in my opinion. Others rely on Starretts.... I think both are good. I started with Mitu and have stayed with the brand. Guess it comes down to what was said earlier.... you get what you pay for. Since I have calipers for other reasons (livelihood), I buy Mitu. As a very wealthy uncle of mine once said to me decades ago "you will never be disappointed with quality". Hasn't always been immediately clear to me (first BMW), but I have found with quality products, customer service does a much better job of standing behind their product.

Engineer by trade and use calipers everyday for the last 40 years. Mitutoyo quality is cheaper than all the rest imo. I recommend the analog .100 dial for reloading.

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If you don't want to spring for the LabRadar's huge upfront investment, remember:

Another thing I noticed is the Station 1 Locator doesn't line up with the shell plate: To be clear here, if you have an empty shellplate and press the handle all the way to top (as though inserting primer), is the primer punch (Station 2) located in the center of the shell plate slot?

Copied from my post at the CZ forum: The two washers and the bearing are less than $10 from McMasterr-Carr. You WILL need to tweak your wire that feeds completed cartridges after station 5... so order an extra wire or two. (OR,,, mill out the block that feeds the cases to station 1....in hind sight, a better option for someone with free access to a milling machine). The washers/bearing are a must imo. Allows you to tighten down the mounting bolt just a bit more. This.... plus make sure the rotation timing is perfect....... and you will never have to worry about powder spill due to the shell plate snapping into place. OR......only use one washer and you probably won't need to tweak the wire. Other upgrades: 1) Inline Fab makes a light kit. A 6" LED strip light plus a beam that plugs into the center hole of your top die set. A must have imo 10/10 2) Dillon bullet tray. 9/10 because you can probably rig something up cheaper. 3) Dillon Strong Mount. 7/10 depends on your mounting situation 4) Roller Handles. A few out there... I have one that is OK, better than stock....but something you can add later. Inline (I think( has a "new" ergo roller handle that you might want) 8/10 5) Cartridge bin "plate"......slides into the slot on the outside of the Arco bin and blocks cartridges from escaping as the bin gets full. Not necessary but..... 5/10 (a strong self-cut cardboard option IS possible) 6) The micrometer style powder adjustment. Simple to install, simple to use. I have one on each of my powder bars and make easy adjustments and can really "dial" in the powder drop. Not cheap, but I really like these. 9/10 (missing one because it still takes effort to get the drop perfect) 7) I do have a roller camming pin. Not sure if you really need one. BUT......it IS important to learn how to properly adjust the pin you use...whether the Dillon or a roller pin. This is what causes a majority of shell plate snap..that spills the powder. Add a rubber band to the end of the primer ski ramp. 9) SA Development Press Monitor. Totally unnecessary but it has saved me at times...especially during development or after a tweak,,,, when I have lost track of whether I go up or down. Other neat features as well. Again, not necessary. (I made a handful of brackets (a can let sell for just a little more than shipping) to mount directly to the case feeder pole (But you need the Model II and Alan is onto generation III) I went back to using the stock spent primer cup after trying several options...that in the end, really only save a minute or two per month. I went without a case feeder for my first two years. Not as bad as you would think as the SA Monitor alerted me for case additions every 20 strokes......but am glad I now have added the CF.

Sarge..... you say that your camming pin is dead on so it has nothing to do with shell plate snap. If you still have the snap after you have set the pin properly....then yes, one needs to find out why the plate still snaps and spills powder. I think what I (and others including Brooke) are saying is: for a 650XL user, if you are experiencing a shell plate snap, the FIRST place to look would be the timing of the insertion of the spent case into Station 1....... and this is controlled by the camming pin. I learned this lesson a few months ago when the camming pin nut came loose (with a bearing installed). You can test this yourself by loosening the camming pin nut and turn the cam pin several spins. Run a few cycles. The bearing will not stop the shell plate snap. Alternately, you can set the camming pin perfectly and remove the bearing....... the 650XL will run with very minimal (if any) shell plate snap. The bearing does an incredible job of removing this last bit of snap while allowing the shell plate to glide very smoothly.

Magneto Speed is a good one with one flaw. Not all pistols have rails.

As to the part in the picture, I assume this is adjusted left or right...... to get the primer push pin centered in the shellplate slot at station 2. Height is fairly static on the Dillon...so I would assume the same for this replacement.