JD1

Once in a blue moon I have found sometimes that a bit of the primer will be taller or shorter than normal, and the primer above it will be snagged and pulled forward some or all the way towards the shell plate. I notice when loading tubes that sometimes the collective height in the tubes may vary and when it does I closely inspect them. It does not happen often but when it does the whole box of a 1,000 will possibly be effected. Changing to new tips didn't help. Sometimes lightening the weight of the stack from above, either removing the extra 230 grain weight I have on top of my hold down rod or cutting the stack count in half, has gotten me thru the box of difficult primers. Along with slowing my Mark 7 from 2400 to 2100 or even 1800 for the duration of the box. Good luck.

Check the floor of the case slide frame for height to verify that it is the same as the floor of the shell plate so that the case can smoothly slide from one position to the other without a bump or hop. I found I had to slightly grind and polish (with a dremel tool) the bottoms and tops of all my shell plates (Dillon and F&FB) entry mouths, opening them up a bit more, to make higher speeds trouble free. This now permits loading at max speeds with the Mark 7 with everything from .380 to .223. However damaged case bases can still hang things up regardless.

I too, added the light some weeks ago and have been totally happy with the gear and the way above normal customer service with all their products including the spill stops. I now trim or load 223 at max speed on my 1050 Mark 7 Pro wonderfully. Really makes reloading smooth. P.S.- I also use the zip tie mods from powder drop to bullet drop to bullet seat stations.

I agree with Nuclearheli and Want2BS8ed. I had the same things happen and I ground the 1050's casting frame with my dremel tool to achieve a better fit before installing the 2nd sensor, that was kindly provided freely by Mark 7. Number 2 lasted maybe 3 weeks before failing. I look forward to gen 2 replacement. Like wise I will not join Facebook either. I signed up for the newsletter when I bought my Mark 7 Pro, and have never seen a newsletter. There doesn't seem to much promotion by e-mail to existing customers. Most of my info has come from here, or when I call in with a problem and ask questions about what's new. Perhaps they should add these forums to their server.

Yeah I love the light, just be careful about the mounting clip not colliding with the case ejector on the front. They come close together.

I have worn out 3 of the rubber washers. First one last about a day, 2nd one less than a hour, 3rd two days. All while running .223. The idea is good but the little rubber washers are either not quite the right size or just not tough enough. I placed them at the decapping/sizing and at the bullet seating stations. I also bought the tool head light and it really works well, nice and bright.

I once bought a used progressive 12 gauge Lee Press, the Fast All, which I knew had been discontinued more than 10 years earlier, at a yard sale for $10. After inspecting it at home, I found that the inside of the mounting base was badly cracked. On a long shot I called Lee to see if I could order a replacement. Customer service connected me with someone in the warehouse. I explained that I'd just picked this press up at a yard sale and thou I knew they had long gone out of production, I wondered if I could still get the part. The man said yes if they still had any. He asked me to hold the phone warning me it would take him about 5 minutes to go to the far end of the warehouse before he could pickup again. I thanked him for the trouble and waited. After a bit he came back on and said yes they still had a few left and he asked for my address, I gave it to him and asked how much to which he says nothing, we back our equipment for life as long as we still have parts, so no charge. It didn't matter how I came by the press or how it became damaged. 3 days later it arrived, no charge for the part or the shipping. One of the very best customer service experiences ever. I have found all the reloading company's service departments have treated me very well, no matter what color.

I think this is "galling", the transfer of a softer metal to a harder metal under pressure and movement due to lack of enough lube. Do what Dillon above says or gently use a dremel with a small polishing bit.

Great idea, Grandpoobah. I bought a couple of feet of vac hose years ago and from time to time trimming off a little. Your idea is beautiful and simple. Thank you. As a mechanical engineer I'd think you will like my hillbilly solution for the 1050 powder tube fix. I mounted the case feeder forward (closer to the operator) about 2 inches. Using the front mounting holes that support the catch bin. I angled the steel holder clip for the case drop tube with needle nose pliers and slightly trimmed the tube to match. Cases drop fine, and this provides clearance for installing the 14" "Unique Tek" extended powder tube - or longer. As I bought quick conversion tool heads with powder measures I'd double some tubes together with super glue to make longer tubes. Sure makes loading rifle cases faster.

I bought my super 1050 in 2013 and have as of last week produced 430,000 rounds total of pistol and rifle ammo so far without needing new bearings. Of course, now that I have said something about it, I will probably need some soon next. Grandpoobah is right about Gary at Dillon is the one to speak with, he loads with the 1050 for himself and he has been most helpful.

I load for many guns, revolver and auto. I too, had bumps along the way. I solved all by learning: Most brands of case gauges are only head space gauges. Lyman ammo checkers, Sheridan Engineering (I really like their cut out gauge as it lets me really identify a problem), EGW, & ShockBottle are case gauges. Get one or all. Understand that that ammo specifications have tolerances. Thus some dies just barely make it to the loose end of them, others to the tight end. Measure some factory boxed ammo and you will be surprised at what you will see and learn. After measuring several manufacturers sizing dies, I found that using Lee undersize dies for pistols and checking them with true case gauges solved all case problems, and I do use a crimp die as well. I have since loaded many tens of thousands of rounds of pistol rounds without any more chambering problems. I hope I have been clear and this helps. I also do this to new brass as well.

I load for many .223/5.56 guns, bolt and auto. I too, had bumps along the way. I solved all by learning: 1. Dillon's are only head space gauges, as are most other brands. Lyman ammo checkers, Sheridan Engineering (I really like their cut out gauge as it lets me really identify a problem), EGW, & ShockBottle are case gauges. Get one or all. Understand that the specifications have tolerances. Thus some dies just barely make to the loose end of them, others to the tight end. Measure some factory boxed ammo and you will be surprised at what you will see and learn. 2. After measuring several die makers sizing dies, I found that for .223/5.56 small base dies from RCBS actually were the real deal. Because brass springs back about .001, I process my once fired brass with small base sizing die after trimming the cases. I also size them one more time when I load the ammo and I do use a crimp die as well. I have since loaded many tens of thousands of rounds of .223/5.55 without any more chambering problems. I hope I have been clear and this helps. P.S. - I also do this to new brass as well.

Yeah, every week. I group my loading runs into segments, all one size primers then the other. Swagesense is the best of the sensors, catches everything it is meant to. I have put indexing marks on the swage pins so I can swap out sizes quickly without having to reset them each time.

I run them from 2-24 hours in crushed walnut for cleaning, then again in crushed corncob for shine. Just depends on how ugly they are to start with. I use both rotating and vibrating tumblers. I change the media out 4 to 6 times a year. I don't use anything extra as electricity is cheaper than polish. I also vibrate my loaded rounds in corncob to clean off the case lube for 10 minutes to no more than 1 hour. That media I change out whenever it turns from yellow to grey color.

I first went the super swager 600 even modified it so I could do 600 cases an hour. But eventually bought my first 1050 just so I could swage and load at the same time.

Same is true with me as well, Want2BS8ed. I don't do Facebook at all. I was/am disappointed with that for the same reasons you listed plus one more. I "subscribed" to the newsletter when I bought my Mark 7 last year, but have never got one newsletter. Go figure. Have you noticed the price and deposit both for the new Revolution has gone up $1,000? I just feel like I have been kicked in the stomach. I had been working like crazy to accommodate the original price, to have one this summer. Now I don't know....

I had this happen to me as well. Got tired of it occurring. I drilled the hole out larger from top to bottom. Ended that pain.

I have been using a Vibraprime successfully for three years or more now. I had considered the rf-100 at first but was put off by the high price and some of the negative reviews. I find that it has works best with CCI primers, thou Winchester or Remington's are a bit slower. I did do some of the mods I saw to load directly to the Dillon tubes. I loaded 6,000 .223 yesterday with it and 2,000 .45's last week, without frustration. I think I did file off some plastic flashing once in the beginning. But yes having to hold it for 30-45 seconds to fill the tube is tiresome, in this regard the rf-100 is better. If mine died now, I'd go buy another.

I have both and they are both good. I prefer the Shockbottle, faster easier.

I have found that the EGW case gauges are made to the minimum cartridge specification. Most others are .001-.002 larger but still in specification. I have found that switching to small base sizing dies for rifle or undersized dies for pistol, produced ammo that easily gages now in the EGW or for that matter, the Sheridan Engineering gauges.

For years I have used corn cob to remove the lube as it seems to absorb the lube better. I tumble the Hi-Tek super coated bullets from SNS, B&B, Bayou, or Missouri all the same. 15 to 30 minutes in corn cob without any loss of the coating. I have found that sharp edges of coated bullets like semi-wad cutters will have the lead exposed when tumbled for more than 1 hour in corn cob, but that is from the bullets bumping into each other more than the rubbing aspects from the corn cob.

I got a email about them last week. Mine arrived in today's mail. I'm happy.

MBF

I tumble them in my Dillon CV-2001 case cleaner for about 30 minutes in crushed corncob.

I have the extended tubes on my s1050's. They have added to the productivity of my loading sessions nearly as much as when I added the MBF's. I also had whole prime tubes chain detonate, before and after putting on the extensions. There is no difference to the experience. As priming compound is a high velocity event, it is over before you can have any reaction. You don't even get to flinch. I have always worn eye and ear protection. They have been just as safe to use as the factory setup. I continue to use them and I am a happy customer.