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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

copterdrvr

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Everything posted by copterdrvr

  1. Thanks-yeah, it's out of stock and I'm on the "notification " list......
  2. Thanks for the reply. I have another AR9 bolt that I tried but it has an AR style extractor which cuts a slot into the side of the bolt. I'm a Lefty and I found that when I used this bolt I had ejecta from the action striking my face. I assume it was following the cut in the bolt which is .17 inch deep. ANYWAY, I pulled the firing pin out of it to try in the original bolt and noticed it had a slightly different location of the taper where it goes from its thickest to thinnest transition. I also looked at the tips of both and they looked the same. Just to make sure, I used the short arm of an Allen wrench and pushed the firing pin as far forward as it would go in the bolt and the firing pin protrusion looked good. I did order a couple spares from the bolt manufacturer and got an email from them that they shipped so hopefully I will have the "factory" pins before this coming Wednesday! I'd still like to hear from AR9 shooters about their typical firing pin life cycles or how often they just arbitrarily change them. Thanks for the replies!
  3. Come to think of it, the reason that the two opposing pieces of firing pin look so smooth and polished is because it's been broken for a while and the two pieces slamming together have peened each other smooth???????
  4. I shot in my local club USPSA match last night and had a few "failures to fire" during the three stages we shot. When I got home I pulled the bolt and found that the firing pin was broken right at the spot where the firing pin is machined down to a smaller diameter. Two questions-is this where it normally breaks, and more importantly, how many rounds do you put down the tube before you change it? Unfortunately I don't remember how many rounds I have through the rifle but I'm assuming it's around 1500. Also, how many rounds do most of you usually get out of a pin before it breaks? Wondering if I just had a bad pin-the break is super smooth and right at the point that the pin is machined down to its final diameter.
  5. I'm using the Kynshot HD buffer and I now realize that neither of the springs are fully compressing so it's not an issue. Should have figured that out on my own!!!!
  6. Well, you're absolutely correct and my error was assuming that the rifle length spring would "bottom out" or reach compression BEFORE the hydraulic buffer bottomed out (because it's in a less than rifle length receiver extension) and my own observations obviously proved that is an incorrect assumption. Thanks for the response!
  7. And in case my question is not clear enough-why does the AR15 RIFLE spring compress the exact same distance as the AR10 CARBINE spring as it's a bit over an inch shorter.
  8. This might be alittle confusing but I know someone here can answer this probably stupid question.... I installed a POF .308 buffer tube on my FM-9 lower which is .75 inch longer than a standard carbine buffer tube as well as adding one quarter in the bottom of the tube and a Kyn-shot HD hydraulic buffer. I'm shooting a 100 grain bullet pretty slow and was looking for the lowest bounce from the gun. Here is the question-I know that the bolt bottoming out against any part of the lower is disaster so with the lower separated from the upper, I installed an AR15 rifle spring on top of a quarter and installed the hydraulic buffer. I then installed the bolt and pushed it into the buffer tube. I could feel the hydraulic piston bottom out and with CONSIDERABLE PRESSURE could not make the key contact anything with a clearance of about .10 inch. I then installed a 308 carbine spring, repeated the test and got the EXACT same result using my entire body weight to attempt to compress the spring farther. WHY? To add, I have a few thousand rounds through the rifle with no evidence of bolt contact using the AR15 rifle spring and my main question is why does the AR15 RIFLE spring and the AR10 carbine spring compress the same amount. They are both JP springs.
  9. Went to the USPSA website and found my information-thanks for your input!!!!!
  10. Started shooting USPSA PCC, I'm a USPSA member shooting in a USPSA sanctioned club--we shoot a qualifier every week so how many qualifiers do I have to have turned in to get an initial classification and how will I be notified that I have actually received a classification? Thanks for your replies!
  11. CMC flast faced trigger-100% reliable and awesome feel... Asked them to put together a 2.5 lb trigger and it's AWESOME and they didn't charge me any extra!!!!
  12. I did everything you did as well as adding the Taylor Freelance brass base plate extensions which are legal for USPSA (mag length less than 140mm) adds four rounds and a LOT of weight down low and a Tungsten guide rod which adds weight up top-both add a considerable amount of weight to the Canik. ....
  13. I have some 115 and 147 grain plated bullets and some Alliant Sport Pistol that will be run through a 16 inch barreled PCC and would like some info on charge weights that give a power factor of at least 125 and no more than 135PF. Pistol loads would be great also as a 125-130PF in a pistol will obviously be higher in the rifle. I'm looking for some help to try and save on components as it looks like the components I have on hand will NOT be replaced for a very long time............
  14. Thanks guys-I had left the mag out of the rotation-didn't want to take a chance. I'll throw it back in the bag.
  15. I don't think people realize how much of a difference changing the striker spring makes on trigger pull.... The factory striker spring is strong enough to go through dry wall if it gets away from you when you remove it from the striker! It's designed to fire nato rated machine gun primers and I don't think we need that. The guns firing system did go through the Nato approval process. Changing to a 6.5 lb ghost spring, coupled with the Freedomsmith trigger made a huge difference regarding trigger function. Some people may also not realize that if you lower the recoil spring, the factory striker spring may keep the pistol from going into battery because the striker is cocked when the pistols slide goes forward into battery. The factory striker spring is ridiculously over powered for the pistol unless you plan on shooting a bunch of Nato spec ammo.
  16. I had a "regular" AR type trigger in my first AR -9 and I almost immediately sold the rifle after my first trip to the range. As it was a new gun I wanted to shoot the heck out of it but had to quit after about sixty rounds. The trigger slap was UNBELIEVABLE! My trigger finger felt like it'd wacked it with a hammer. Let my shooting bud try it-he's a big ole boy who shoots a 300 WM "for fun", shot it five times and handed it back and said his fun meter was pegged. Started talking to folks and did a bunch of research and actually called CMC and talked to the owner of the company. Super friendly guy who spent a BUNCH of time talking to someone who at the time knew nothing about AR9's. Ordered one of his triggers and what a DIFFERENCE! When you move the trigger the gun goes bang-right now with minimal overtravel and ZERO trigger slap. I now have three CMC triggers. I still use Geissele SSA-E triggers with JP yellow hammer springs in my precision AR's but have CMC triggers in my tactical AR's and AR9's.
  17. It's definitely a "loose" round. Weird thing is if I punch on the top of the MagLula for a while it will stop and then when I reload the mag it does it again. Five other factory mags don't do it. Oh well, just curious as it seems to function fine so far. Thanks for the replies!
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