mrgrabow
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Posts posted by mrgrabow
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Does magazine capacity matter when shooting Major or Minor?
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Just noodling around some ideas in my head...
Wanted to gauge feasibility of adding a new (duplicate) 9mm top end to a Kimber 45 target model. If plausible, any guidance on suitable parts suppliers?
Regards,
Mark
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Mentioned before but if you find the situation that the original poster did - reading letters/words only with the shooting eye set for distance - it's most likely because your dominant eye has led the way (been very dominant) when you read letters & words. It still needs to be set for a front sight distance for shooting. If you over-do it, you may get a clear rear sight focus - that's too much "Add" in the Rx.
No one really wants to hear bad news that "helps" but here it is: the chance that your health insurance vision benefit will pay for shooting glasses, or anything else that isn't your exact eye care Rx, is very close to zero. Even if it's the only pair of lenses you ask to make that year.
You'll need to take your vision Rx, get the near vision number for the eye you use to sight the gun (or slightly less "Add"), get the distance number for your non-sighting eye, and order your own glasses. Two very good companies are Zenni (cheaper) and Decot (pricier). Longer version found in post 15 (and post 24) here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=194860
Follow that with this: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=184713&page=2entry2083879
and this: http://pistol-training.com/articles/vision and you're on your way.
Tag
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Try this, look at something far away. It will be in focus, and there will be one of them. Now stick your thumb up in the air at arms reach just below the center of your field of view. You will see two partially transparent thumbs, and they will be slightly fuzzy. Slowly pull your focus back to your thumbs, while keeping the two partially transparent thumbs the same distance away from each other. It can take some people a little while to figure this out, but once you do it's easy from that point forward. What you will perceive is a single object back in the distance, but it will be fuzzy. You will also perceive two partially transparent thumbs, but they are in crisp focus.
This is what you want your eyes to do when shooting. You want your point of optical convergence to *always* be on the target - and there should always be one of them.
Before reading this I never got the point of this line of discussion. I was very surprised how easily I could make my eyes do this while running my thumb across an array of dry-fire targets about 8 yards across my living room. It was "almost" as easy with iron sights, exception being the more I made myself aware of sight alignment, the more likely the single target would mush out into 1.5 or 2 target widths. Then I put on my cheapo custom glasses (zennioptical.com) with +0.75D in the right eye and -0.25D in the left eye. MUCH easier to hold the sight alignment and the target focus, because the 2nd 'gun' off to the right is so much fuzzier and the main 'gun' on the left is completely clear due to the correction in the lenses. If presbyopia is your new enemy then this might be your new friend. Thanks J.
So if I understand correctly, let's say the shooter rx is -4.0 both eyes. You say that the glasses would result in experiencing a net rx of -3.25 right and -4.25 left, yes?Try this, look at something far away. It will be in focus, and there will be one of them. Now stick your thumb up in the air at arms reach just below the center of your field of view. You will see two partially transparent thumbs, and they will be slightly fuzzy. Slowly pull your focus back to your thumbs, while keeping the two partially transparent thumbs the same distance away from each other. It can take some people a little while to figure this out, but once you do it's easy from that point forward. What you will perceive is a single object back in the distance, but it will be fuzzy. You will also perceive two partially transparent thumbs, but they are in crisp focus.
This is what you want your eyes to do when shooting. You want your point of optical convergence to *always* be on the target - and there should always be one of them.
Before reading this I never got the point of this line of discussion. I was very surprised how easily I could make my eyes do this while running my thumb across an array of dry-fire targets about 8 yards across my living room. It was "almost" as easy with iron sights, exception being the more I made myself aware of sight alignment, the more likely the single target would mush out into 1.5 or 2 target widths. Then I put on my cheapo custom glasses (zennioptical.com) with +0.75D in the right eye and -0.25D in the left eye. MUCH easier to hold the sight alignment and the target focus, because the 2nd 'gun' off to the right is so much fuzzier and the main 'gun' on the left is completely clear due to the correction in the lenses. If presbyopia is your new enemy then this might be your new friend. Thanks J.
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Rowdy. Noob question here. What plated mags exactly are you using/referencing?This is one reason I switched to the nickel plated mags with the thin basepad. There is never an issue of box fitment. I'm sorry your tolerances were off. I just measured one of my Shadows and its rear sight measured 0.370" in height total.
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He had an FFL 07 file the appropriate paperwork with the BATF and relocated itIt looks great but where did the serial number go?
What $$ does this number relocation typically cost?
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Seen several STI pistols that wouldn't run start running by going to the U die. Have a 9mm Trojan, little barrel throating and an aftec extractor
runs 100% and has over 30,000 rounds through it. Have an Eagle again throated stock extractor. Using bullets from 115 up to 160gn.
My guns like an OAL between 1.140 and 1.150.
Eagle has Grams followers and springs, Trojan uses stock Metalform magazines or Wilson with two coils cut off the magazine springs
10lb recoil springs and 15lb mainsprings.
What is a "U" die?
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What company is PT?
I'm new here...
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Does this gun have a ramped barrel?
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Does anyone know if Bul uses non-traditional parts in these guns? Wondering about buying spare parts easily should the need arise
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Very nice!
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Noodling around and I see both models for sale, what are the differences between the two model lines?
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Trying to located a worksheet or other resource to identify how these shim plates and the associated plastic "donuts" are used to change POI
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Anyone have thoughts on which of the above 'smiths "specialize" in specific models, i.e. "this guy for 1301's he's the bomb, that guy for Versamax, etc.?"
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As the title reads, does anyone manufacture a reduced power recoil spring for the 1301?
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Now to the lower half of the pistol:
I will install CZ USA's race hammer, a Shadow mag release, 97B trigger (the same as the old style 85C trigger, but without the over travel screw), a flat hammer spring plug, and the following CGW parts: 11.5# hammer spring, reduced power trigger return spring and type one short reset disconnector.
Step one: remove the grips.
Next depress the hammer spring plug slightly and remove the retaining pin.
Then remove the top retaining pin on the magazine brake and remove the brake.
Removing the safeties: using a jeweler's screwdriver, lift the long leg of the sear spring out of the groove and set it aside on the safety.
Newbie question here... what's the difference between the stock and a Shadow mag release? Can't really find any photos comparing before and after. Did you procure the mag release from CZC or from David?
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CZ 9mm loads
in CZ
Seems like most folks are NOT shooting 115's (at least those who replied to this thread). Curious why.... I'm looking to develop a flat shooting load for my youngster to use in "his" new SP01... I've got Titegroup on hand at the moment...
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Seems like most folks are NOT shooting 115's (at least those who replied to this thread). Curious why.... I'm looking to develop a flat shooting load for my youngster to use in "his" new SP01... I've got Titegroup on hand at the moment...
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I have never seen a better jersey than TechWear. I have some that are three years old and no pills and no unravelled hems.
Can't find a website for TecWare....can anyone point out the correct addy?
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ELS mounted on DAA belt. The belt is MUCH stiffer with stronger velcro than the Safariland belt. My holster doesn't flop around (using the Invictus holster hanger mounted on QLS) like it did with the Safariland belt.
The ELS components are robust. They are great for switching out what is needed for different stages. With QLS on the holster, I can pull the entire holster off if it is needed for a stage or just being more comfortable driving between stages/at lunch/what have you.
At least 3 pistol mag pouches. Bladetechs work well, but many options. Most I've ever needed was 4 pistol mag pouches (high round count pistol stage with planned reloads).
Only need 1 rifle mag pouch and rarely even that.....but for looooong stages like RM3G, there are been times that you'll want 2 rifle mag pouches. Bladetech AR mag pouch is a good, common one.
For shotgun caddies, be able to fit at least 16 on the belt, but be prepared for big matches needing 32-40 shells for long shotgun stages. I can fit 36 on my belt if real estate isn't needed for pistol mags. Using Invictus Practical shell carriers, but others have their pros/cons also.
Hope that helps.
Austin, where did you source/buy the flush aluminum nuts and allen head screws in your setup?
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So any recommendations on reliable vendors who have Mec Gars?
Anyone have a 1911 Traditional Match Elite 9mm?
in Sig
Posted
Do these guns have a series 80 trigger mechanism?
Also, are the "guts" interchangeable easily with aftermarket or are they "sig specific" ?