DuplexAlpha

I dump the cleaned brass, pins and dirty water into those I think 5 gallon pails you get at home reno places for a few bucks with one of the Frankford media separators on top of the pail. Looks like this: http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/731/731116.jpg All the brass stays in, but the dirty water and some pins fall through the separator. But what I did was drill 2 1" holes in the side walls near the bottom on opposite sides, and glued metal screens over them with some epoxy. Something like this, aluminum mesh for screen doors: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/black-aluminum-screen-36-inch-x-84-inch/981589 So the water flows right through the Frankford separator on top of the bucket, and the screens in the bottom of the bucket. The brass gets caught in the separator over the bucket. Since I only reload pistol (straight wall cases), it doesn't take much at all to get all the pins out of the brass. Just a little shaking of the separator top. Might take some more shaking with necked cases. I do this in a large washing basin with a hose attachment on the faucet to rinse everything out. With the screens, all the water just keep running through, and after literally 2-3 minutes of work at most, the pins are in the bucket and cleaned, the cases are in the separator and cleaned. I spread out the cases for drying and I run a magnet in a ziplock over everything. At most I might find a pin or two every load that didn't fall out from the separator. And this is also a good time for me to screen for any suspect cases, or cases with bent lips I might want to ream out first before running through my sizer, or any other case that might need a little case prep like the primer pocket, etc. I spend more time on the spreading out, magnet, and inspection of cases than I do on separating the dirty water from the pins and cases.

My go to grease for most application is AMSOIL's synthetic extreme pressure. It is described as: Composed of premium-quality synthetic base oils and calcium sulfonate complex thickeners, Multi-Purpose Grease provides exceptional film strength, shear resistance, adhesion properties and mechanical stability. I pump that into the zerk fittings. I also use Progold Prolink/MFR-7 as my go to light oil as well on my press. I also use both the AMSOIL grease and the Progold on my firearms and use the AMSOIL in automotive applications, and Progold on my mountain bikes. I have also sprayed a dry graphite lube into the primer feeder channel, and then wiped off excess, as well as other areas like the powder measure/drop area where I don't want an oil/grease for powder to stick to. The right lubricants used appropriately in the right places can make a world of difference.

Thanks for the input! Did you notice anything odd in the spent cases that would have indicated a problem?

Interesting, well I've got my hands on some Winchester SPP, and had an opportunity to pick up some CCI magnum SPP and like others almost didn't notice when the clerk handed them to me until I walked away a few steps. Ended up only getting the Winchester to be safe but thought I'd check with y'all first. Sounds like I should be ok using CCI magnum SPP in .40S&W loads, but ideally stick to the non-magnum SPP just to be safe. Perhaps I'll pick some up and test and see how it goes? What obvious signs should I look for on the spent case?

What brand were they? Did you notice any difference in say the hardness of the metal cup?

Maybe I'll pick some up next time I'm there. It was a fair price, I just shied away as I was unsure. Thanks guys!

Had a chance to pick some CCI SP magnum primers but hesitated because I was unfamiliar with magnum primer reloads in .40S&W, and I didn't have any reliable load data for anything but small pistol primer. Anyone using magnum primers in their .40S&W load? If so, why?

Thanks guys that was extremely helpful input.

The Caldwell smartphone function only works with Apple correct? I have a Samsung tablet I don't really use that I could easily designate to chrony usage. But android and all.

Seems like hitting chronos is far more common than I thought. Out of curiosity, what is their repair policy like?

Thanks! Between the various models, which one do you prefer and why?

Hope that helps! ~g To clarify, you plug in a 25' USB cable to a display? Is it this? https://www.competitionelectronics.com/view-shooting-products.html?page=shop.product_details&category_id=7&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=21

Thanks for the input gents! Hmm, I have a few Flambeau ammo boxes I guess I can throw it in. I keep the majority of those things you mentioned already either in my range bag or my ammo box. I guess I could just setup another one for it, but it is an added cost to consider I guess.

Does it come in a case of some sort for transport?

What chrony do you use? Are you happy with it? Why or why not? How far away do you stand from your chrony? Can you read your chrony's display from that distance? If not, do you prefer having a chrony that does the recording for you, one with a remote display or both? Do you use a tri pod? Thanks!

This is what I do as well, it works great. I like this method for verifying that my powder drop is functioning well. However, I also like to pull the first few cases through my press, scale them before and after the powder drop. I not only want to know that the first 10 consistent ones are my intended drop X 10. It's also nice to see consistency between cases as well. Or also every 100 or so (whenever I need to reload primers) I like to check the powder drop. But good tip guys.

So what brand is this and where did you get it? It has no brand marking on it. Looks like a white knock off Gempro. I saw someone selling one recently on one of the gun forums I frequent, and was going to make an offer but he had already sold it. I believe I got it from amazon or ebay, nothing exotic. Looks almost identical to this: Probably the same unless they decided to use a cheaper pressure sensor. But it is very comparable to a Gempro. It's about 1/3 the price. However, it doesn't come with Gempro's, VERY good warranty. Pretty much unless it's your fault that the scale no longer functions, My Weigh will warranty the Gempro. But so far any Gempro or this knockoff has never been more than ~0.003 g or ~0.0463 gr away from a lab scale that costs over $4000. Granted I only use the AC adapter, never batteries, I have it sitting on a foam pad, leveled on my reloading table, I let it sit for a few minutes, then calibrate (I also use a dryer sheet for static, particularly in the winter when it is much drier, not just on the scale but the powder dropper as well), and knock on wood, so far it has been accurate. So accurate I want a second in case this one breaks for whatever reason.

I just so happen to have a background in which I have acquired lab grade components such as highly accurate scales with draft windows, and certifications of mg accuracy. I recently purchased a Gempro 250 knockoff that apparently uses the same HBM sensor as the Gempro, similar layout, etc, just a different case (still with the adjustable feet, and the leveling bubble, etc), and it was surprisingly accurate after calibration compared to a multi-thousand dollar lab grade scale. I think all in I paid about $60 US for it. At the time I also saw the same scale without the AC adapter for $50 US. It reads to 0.001 grams and 0.02 grain. Fantastic when you're charge is around 4-5 grains. A tenth of a variation in many powder scales is not quite sufficient to me at 4-5 grains. But ya the Gempro from OWK is a great purchase at $150 with the noise suppressing adapter thrown in, and fantastic warranty as well.

I've noticed that when I'm recovering from recoil, I hold the trigger all the way back until the peak of recoil lift. At the peak of recoil lift, I start releasing trigger, and pretty much let it go to full forward before coming back again. By the time I'm recovering downwards again, I take up the slack, and as I lower the front sight back onto target, I'm right on the break of the trigger. When I have tried to only release the trigger enough to reset, I found it slowed me down because the reset on my pistol is very light and not your typical super clicky Glock reset. I was paying too much attention to the feel of the reset, and as a result was backing up off the trigger a lot slower. Any efficiencies I was hoping to gain in releasing the trigger minimally were more than being outweighed by inefficiencies in the slower trigger release so that I could feel the tactile reset. But your mileage my vary, especially if you shoot a Glock or something with a more positive reset.

I made one using 2 x 4, and 5/8" MDF for the top. I also used an entire tube of polyurethane construction adhesive at all contact points (that's the goop you see smeared along the front 2 x 4). Makes it CRAZY rigid, way more than many 3" screws could ever. It's secured to the joists along both walls into the corner. Basically this table isn't moving. I also ran 2, 2 x 4, laminated together by the construction adhesive on top of each other, then to the underside of the MDF, running from the framing 2 x 4 at the front to back, so that the bolts to secure the press would have plenty of rigid material to bolt to. Cost less than $40, and the construction adhesive was a big part of that cost (around a third), and the screws were "free" (leftover from when I built a deck not long ago). So it basically I believe a 16' 2 x 4, a tube of construction adhesive, a sheet of 5/8" MDF, and some screws. Took me maybe 2 hours to build, and a few minutes to install the next day after allowing the adhesive to cure entirely (makes drilling through it easier for mounting the press when the adhesive has cured). Took those pics right after building it and throwing my shooting shit onto it to clear space elsewhere in the basement I needed for other projects. I left a bit of an overhang on one side so I could mount clamps to it if needed. I've found that very useful on previous work tables. Right now I have a multi-power outlet clamped to the back far corner for example for running things like rotary tools, soldering irons, etc. There's tonnes of light in the small space, the overhead light (which has since been changed to a "safety" light that's "unbreakable". With the fluorescent light as well, it's plenty for reloading. I find I don't even need an additional light to look into the case when verifying powder charge levels. Although that might change when I get older and the eyes start going.

Thanks guys! I guess I'll just throw it in with the rest.

Cleaned off some brass recently and came across some cases that were shiny, silver, but non-magnetic. Upon closer inspection, around the primer pocket, you can still see some brass colored metal. I've heard of acid soaking brass turning them pink, but not turning brass into a shiny silver color. Any insight?

Well the current plan is to run a 5 station press in the following configuration: Station 1: Deprime with a universal decapping die Station 2: Sizing with a carbide die and decapper removed Station 3: Powder through expander Station 4: Seat bullet Station 5: Factory crimp die

Perhaps I'll start even lower at 4.1 and go up from there instead of starting at 4.5. Thanks for the advice.

Ah, yes I see what you're getting at. Yes I am running what will be a 5 station press with a Lee universal decapper at station 1, and then a carbide full length sizing die with the decapper removed before primer and powder.