DuplexAlpha

I dump the cleaned brass, pins and dirty water into those I think 5 gallon pails you get at home reno places for a few bucks with one of the Frankford media separators on top of the pail. Looks like this: http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/Primary/731/731116.jpg All the brass stays in, but the dirty water and some pins fall through the separator. But what I did was drill 2 1" holes in the side walls near the bottom on opposite sides, and glued metal screens over them with some epoxy. Something like this, aluminum mesh for screen doors: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/black-aluminum-screen-36-inch-x-84-inch/981589 So the water flows right through the Frankford separator on top of the bucket, and the screens in the bottom of the bucket. The brass gets caught in the separator over the bucket. Since I only reload pistol (straight wall cases), it doesn't take much at all to get all the pins out of the brass. Just a little shaking of the separator top. Might take some more shaking with necked cases. I do this in a large washing basin with a hose attachment on the faucet to rinse everything out. With the screens, all the water just keep running through, and after literally 2-3 minutes of work at most, the pins are in the bucket and cleaned, the cases are in the separator and cleaned. I spread out the cases for drying and I run a magnet in a ziplock over everything. At most I might find a pin or two every load that didn't fall out from the separator. And this is also a good time for me to screen for any suspect cases, or cases with bent lips I might want to ream out first before running through my sizer, or any other case that might need a little case prep like the primer pocket, etc. I spend more time on the spreading out, magnet, and inspection of cases than I do on separating the dirty water from the pins and cases.

My go to grease for most application is AMSOIL's synthetic extreme pressure. It is described as: Composed of premium-quality synthetic base oils and calcium sulfonate complex thickeners, Multi-Purpose Grease provides exceptional film strength, shear resistance, adhesion properties and mechanical stability. I pump that into the zerk fittings. I also use Progold Prolink/MFR-7 as my go to light oil as well on my press. I also use both the AMSOIL grease and the Progold on my firearms and use the AMSOIL in automotive applications, and Progold on my mountain bikes. I have also sprayed a dry graphite lube into the primer feeder channel, and then wiped off excess, as well as other areas like the powder measure/drop area where I don't want an oil/grease for powder to stick to. The right lubricants used appropriately in the right places can make a world of difference.

Thanks for the input! Did you notice anything odd in the spent cases that would have indicated a problem?

Interesting, well I've got my hands on some Winchester SPP, and had an opportunity to pick up some CCI magnum SPP and like others almost didn't notice when the clerk handed them to me until I walked away a few steps. Ended up only getting the Winchester to be safe but thought I'd check with y'all first. Sounds like I should be ok using CCI magnum SPP in .40S&W loads, but ideally stick to the non-magnum SPP just to be safe. Perhaps I'll pick some up and test and see how it goes? What obvious signs should I look for on the spent case?

What brand were they? Did you notice any difference in say the hardness of the metal cup?

Maybe I'll pick some up next time I'm there. It was a fair price, I just shied away as I was unsure. Thanks guys!

Had a chance to pick some CCI SP magnum primers but hesitated because I was unfamiliar with magnum primer reloads in .40S&W, and I didn't have any reliable load data for anything but small pistol primer. Anyone using magnum primers in their .40S&W load? If so, why?

Thanks guys that was extremely helpful input.

The Caldwell smartphone function only works with Apple correct? I have a Samsung tablet I don't really use that I could easily designate to chrony usage. But android and all.

Seems like hitting chronos is far more common than I thought. Out of curiosity, what is their repair policy like?

Thanks! Between the various models, which one do you prefer and why?

Hope that helps! ~g To clarify, you plug in a 25' USB cable to a display? Is it this? https://www.competitionelectronics.com/view-shooting-products.html?page=shop.product_details&category_id=7&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=21

Thanks for the input gents! Hmm, I have a few Flambeau ammo boxes I guess I can throw it in. I keep the majority of those things you mentioned already either in my range bag or my ammo box. I guess I could just setup another one for it, but it is an added cost to consider I guess.

Does it come in a case of some sort for transport?

What chrony do you use? Are you happy with it? Why or why not? How far away do you stand from your chrony? Can you read your chrony's display from that distance? If not, do you prefer having a chrony that does the recording for you, one with a remote display or both? Do you use a tri pod? Thanks!