Malibu13

ringram, CZ Custom often has the barrels. https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/barrels-complete-upper/cz-75-barrel-czechmate-9mm.html Currently out of stock but they frequently have them.

Kirkster, You should definitely be getting far better accuracy than what you have indicated / shown above. I know you indicated you used Loktite on the mount, but I would double check that the screws are still tight. Depending on how clean the threads of both the screws and the mounting holes in the frame, the Loktite may not have cured as well as you might expect. I typically use break cleaner (Acetone) to clean the screw threads and threads in the frame before applying the Loktite. This will ensure any lubricants etc are cleaned away and you have a good surface for the Loktite to do its thing. Also, as you mentioned putting a bit of Loktite on the mounting threads for the slide ride should be done as well. Based on your picture something is either moving between shots and thus your point of aim and impact are moving, or you have not found a load combination your gun likes. You mentioned that you had not throated the barrel yet and were loading to 1.135". That is a bit short based on my experience with Czechmates ( I have 4 of them). All of mine were throated so they will load a MG 115 RN CMJ to 1.160".

The factory springs in the 4 Czechmates I have had all were 14#s. When running major power factor (168-171 PF with 9.9GN of Accurate #7 and 115 MG RN CMJ) I use a 10# recoil spring. I have throated the barrels on all of my Czechmates so they will accommodate loading out to 1.160". With respect to finding more magazines, you can usually get them at CZ Custom, or at the CZ USA site. Lastly, for cleaning the CMore lens, I use the Zeiss lens cleaning wipes you can buy at Sam's or WalMart. They come in a giant box and are individually packaged so they are convenient to through a bunch in your range bag and use during / after the match as needed.

If your shooting the Czechmate with the comp installed and using either 124 or 115 grain bullets you will need to be loading to major power factor to get the gun to cycle properly/ reliably unless you drop the weight of the recoil spring significantly from the stock weight. It will run most factory loads with the comp installed as well once it is broken in. You can purchase a recoil spring calibration pack from Wolff Guns Spings (www.gunsprings.com) and it will come with 9, 10,11, &12 pound springs in it. Believe part # is 13124. If you are going to load major power factor ammunition, make sure you have a chronograph to test and work up your loads and do some research on the site to get some baseline information to work from. I have several Czechmates as well as a Parrot that I have been shooting in matches for the past 4 or so years. Very nice guns and will run as reliably as anything else out there once you get them set up correctly.

The price point does not make much sense. Especially when looking at the pictures and video they have on the web site showing the press and tool head. The finish machining on the press and tool head look like very little time and effort went in to it. Think they took a big step backwards in their quality based on how it looks.

You would be fine to leave the brass in the water prior to starting the cleaning process. Do not let it sit in there not tumbling in the dirty water after the process has ended for very long. If you let it sit in the dirty water for a long time (long time being several hours with out tumbling) then you will find that the dirty water starts to tarnish the brass. If that happens you will need to empty the dirty water and re-clean the brass.

The other option is to roll size the brass as part of your process.

Had same problem with my Czechmate sight mount. Had to chase the threads and then clean and re-clean them multiple times (including the threads on the screws) with brake cleaner, and then the Loctite cleaner. Used RED Loctite and have not had an issue since. The least little bit of oil / grease in the threads and the Loctite will not cure properly. I use the liquid and not the stuff that is in the "chapstick" tube. The other option to the Red is Green 632 Loctite. I have used that in the past to mount compensators on other guns, but will warn you that you will definitely need to heat up the screws if you should ever need to remove them.

I had same problem with one of my Czechmates. If your gun was new from factory there is no Loctite on it. The problem is the factory does not always do a great job of cleaning the threads on the barrels. You may even find once you get the limited front sight block off that you run in to the same problem with the open set up. You can use a set of soft jaws on your vice to hold the barrel and a leather pad between a wrench and the flats of the front sight block to get the limited configuration loose. Once you do that get the proper size die and chase the threads on the barrel with the die using some oil. Then clean after chasing the threads. Do this for both barrels and you will not have the problem any longer.

I doubt you will ever wear the die out. I run the Lee 9MM U die on a RL1050 and have well over 70K rounds through it so far with no issues. I wet tumble with SS pins and lube brass as well.

I give the press a general cleaning after each reloading session. It gets a thorough cleaning and lube every 10K or so rounds. I just find that the press runs much better if you stay after it and keep it as clean as you can.

Agree with the above. Go with longest OAL and check as you go. Also, every full turn of the throating reamer be sure to pull it out, clean it off and clean out any chips from the barrel. It should not take much to get it done and go SLOW with no pressure put on the throating reamer.

No one makes mag wells with inserts for TS or CM like the Dawson Ice. Armory Craft does have some aftermarket mag wells that I believe they MFG or have made for them. Might be worth reaching out to them to see if they would be interested in making such a thing.

Yes both barrels are the same.

What reamer were you using? There should be no reason you had to use your drill to do the throating. I have done a number of the Czechmate barrels, as have a number of the guys I shoot with, and not one of them required using anything but standard tapping chuck and very light to no pressure what so ever to get the job done. Did you get a measurement before and after throating and if so how much did you have to remove? Should have only been a few thousandths of depth in the throat area.

You can do the barrel reaming yourself. It is very easy to do. You just need to take your time and go slow. The reamer can be purchased at Brownell's or direct from Clymer. Clymer part # 184053380. When doing this you need to make sure you do not put ANY downward pressure on the reamer. Get it chucked up in a tap holder, ube wit hsome cutting fluid, and put in barrel, then gently turn one or two turns, clean out chamber, test fit dummy round that is OAL your looking to use. Then repeat as needed one or two turns at a time until the dummy round seats properly in barrel. If you try and put pressure on the reamer it WILL get stuck very easily. They are very sharp and will make the cut with no pressure being applied to it at all.

They are the same gun. Only difference is the anodized grips, mag well, mag base plates, slide racker, and the hammer on the Parrot is the CZ low profile competition hammer. I have both a Czechmate and Parrot. My Parrot came with 2 barrels as well so I am not sure if they are now only shipping with one barrel (I got my Parrot a year or so ago). As stated above you can get the anodized grips, mag well, trigger, slide racker, etc. from Armory Craft if you want them for a Czechmate. Both are good guns and run well with very minor tweaking needed. Also if you shop around a bit you should be able to find a Parrot for about the same price as the Czechmate. Armory Craft gets them in from time to time and Milos is a good guy to deal with.

Sig2009, I load to 1.160" OAL. for the load I mentioned using the MG 115 CMJ bullet.

Agree that is flow in to the firing pin hole as mentioned above. I think your OAL is a bit short as well. Typically see OAL of 1.160 - 1.165 for that bullet and load in 9MM Major. Loading the bullet a bit longer will help with the pressure as will the extended firing pin.

Agree with getting barrel reamed so that you can seat bullets longer. Preferred load I am running is 9.8GN of Accurate #7 under a Montana Gold 115GN CMJ Round Nose bullet. Makes ~169PF and is very flat shooting. Would also suggest you change out the recoil spring (if you have not done so already) to a 9 or 10LB spring.

No, I would not say that it shoots softer with the lighter recoil spring. I would say there is less dot movement throughout the recoil cycle with the lighter spring. Especially on the return to battery. With the factory spring I found the dot dipping down as the gun came back in to battery. Thus I went with a lighter spring. A lot of what you choose to run for a spring, how "flat" the gun shoots etc. is very much based on the load you are running in the gun, and where you feel you are getting the most optimal performance out of the gun. I don't believe there is one right answer and what works in one gun will not always work in another. Just my two cents worth after spending a number of years at this and lots of testing.

I have 2 Czechmates. The stock recoil spring was 14# in both of them. I have since done a lot of testing and settled on a 9# recoil spring. Have not had any issues with either gun going back in to battery. Also have two other guys I shoot with using Czechmates and both run 9# springs as well with no issues.

I have had the Level 10 kit on an RL1050 with a Mark VII running it for about a year and a half now. I don't track round count super close but a solid 25K rounds have been put through the press either prepping brass or loading with no issues. I make sure to clean and grease the bearing every time I convert press over from brass prep to loading and vise versa. No signs of wear yet, but I do have a back up bearing just in case. The press does operate smoother with the bearing in place, you still will get a bit of "snap" on a 1050 when the shell plate indexes, even with the delrin ball upgrade installed.

If you have that much brass that is bulged, why not roll size them instead with a Case Pro?

Running MG 115GN CMJ bullets over Accurate #7 in my Czechmate. If you buy in bulk the cost difference per bullet becomes negligible compared to what you spend on match fees, travel, etc..