craigkim

No, not necessarily. This is all very confusing if you ask me. Mine is a CZC model #91735 from 2016. I think that the custom fit match barrel was an option that increased the price $150 or so. I was thinking that this was what made it a "CZC SP-01 Accushadow Black", but I could be wrong. the only definite way I could discern between models was to use the model number. The barrel is stainless and is a tad longer than stock, so it protrudes from the accu bushing about a 1/4" or maybe a bit more. It looks about the same length as the Australian barrels I used to see. Supposedly, and I think I read this on enos forums, the czc match barrels had saami spec chambers instead of nato spec like the stock barrels. I notice more forgiveness over my stock shadow, but it is still shorter than I would like. I am pretty nervous to have it reamed, because I shoot this one a LOT better than my other Shadow and that Shadow had a full CGW trigger parts workover, so it definitely isn't the trigger.

This is my least favorite thing about the 2 shadows I have owned. I have owned a 2010 SP-01 Shadow and a CZ TS in 9mm. I had issues with my Shadow locking up at anything over about 1.120 with the Montana Gold 124 CMJs. I liked to load them at about 1.145 for all of my other 9mms, but found myself loading specific ammunition for the Shadow, or loading 115 grain Hornady FMJs, which didn't seem to matter given their profile. I did not have issues with the TS. I sold both that Shadow and the TS and went with an STI Marauder and I can load the 124 CMjs out to around 1.165 without issue.... but I tend to keep it in the 1.145 range to use one ammo for everything.... the 2011, Walther Q5, a PPQ, a VP9, and a Springfield XD. I recently got a CZ Accushadow Black and it's CZ Custom match barrel chamber/throat is longer, but I can still only load out to about 1.130 with the CMJs. I like the pistol enough that I may just load everything shorter, but I would really love to have a little more room. I feel like I had heard/read mixed results from reaming the barrel

I have now had a CZ TS, a Cajunized CZ SP-01 Shadow, and a CZC Accushadow Black... all in 9mm. I got the Shadow first and found it to have potential but I didn't like the feel of the trigger all that well despite the customization. I also didn't think the workmanship was all that great on it and I hated the short throat/chamber. Then I got my TS. I liked everything about the TS, except my hands just didn't fit it very well. So, I bought an STI Marauder 2016 Shot Show edition and it was worlds better than either. A few weeks back though, I decided to try a 2016 CZC Accushadow Black and I really like it. I shoot it almost as well as the STI. I really like the SRT and the parts/fitting/machining are excellent and much better than my original Shadow were. I didn't think that the Accushadow would be much more accurate than the first Shadow I had, but I could never shoot my first Shadow on par with the STI and this is really close. The STI has capacity and a better trigger, but it was also the same price as a pair of TS's +, so that makes sense.

I am almost at an impasse, but I am attempting to avoid buying the Dawson kit. It's not the money, but the idea that I can't buy magazines that work reliably for $70. I am feeling like I should have just gone SVI instead. Okay, so I got my parts. Per the gentleman at Grams Engineering, I got the FKS-11 spring/follower and the BPS-4 pads. He also stated that I need a spacer plate. The problem is that the FKS-11 states right on it, works with "no spacer plate". I am sure there is a remedy, however I cannot reach him. I understand, IT'S FRIDAY! I assume I need to trim these followers on the distal or breach aspect, but I need guidance. I really wanted to play with them this weekend. Anyone help? Also, Go Hoosiers!

The factory mags have a polymer spacer and I ordered stainless ones for my builds. I didn't necessarily want the stainless, but that was all I could find as a standalone option. I will probably polish the face of those as well. I haven't received those parts yet, they should be here today. The marauder I got was the one from this years shot show and it came with 2 mags. They have a fancier looking base plate and look more polished from the factory than the pictures I am finding online.

Okay guys, I have done a lot of online research and I haven't gotten any really definitive answers to my questions. I found lots of information on tuning 40 cal sti mags, but not 9mm. I am sorta lost. I really like my new STI Marauder, but I am a little bewildered by the magazine predicament that seems to loom with these firearms. I didn't know anything about it prior to buying the pistol. I have two 140mm factory STI mags with STI internals and their extended base pads. They seem to be reasonably reliable enough if I feed them longer oal, factory, 9mm ammunition. I can get 20 in them. On occasion though, they want to pop out all of the rounds or let the first one stand up. I had a lot of double feeds with them using my reloads. I assume that this is related to the feed lips being too loose. They hang up a little and get tight with loading around 15 or so rounds. I can't find factory mags anywhere.... I ordered a few tubes and Grams Engineering internals to build a few more magazines. I thought about ordering the Dawson tuning kit, but I am not really sure I need it. My question is: Can someone give me the critical dimensions to help me tune the feed lips for 9mm? I am very comfortable with small project metal working and have dial calipers, a jewelers anvil, a mandrel, brass hammers, a foredom, etc. Any other suggestions related to 9mm specifically would be welcome. Right now I am not even worried about trying to go past 20 in the mags, I'd be happy with better reliability to start. Thank you!

My thoughts exactly. The rear is right of center to compensate. How would younaddress it? Im thinking about tapping the right side with a dowel to see if it changes. Maybe they both seated further on the left side? Strange that this would happen nearly the same on both pistols though.....?

Here is a TECHNICAL question for you gentlemen. Background is that I am trying to tailor my CZ TS and CZ SP-01 Shadow for 3 gun. I put the 10x bushings in both. I am not sure but it does seem like the groups tightened, however both pistols impact shifted left about 3.5" at 10 yards! Nice groups, just left of poa. I have the adjustable rear on my TS and that remedied it very quickly, so I ordered a Shadow adjustable rear to install as well. My question is,... Does this indicate a problem or that I have done something incorrectly and if so how should I remedy it? Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks Edit: both are 9mm

I had the same experience when I got mine. The factory trigger is not that great. I had the trigger tuned up, CGW, and now I like it quite a bit. Now, I still don't really love the gun though because I have so many issues reloading for it. I have to load so much shorter for it than all of my other pistols, including my TS. Trying to sort out how to resolve that issue.

It is soooo much work to set up a chrono AND accuracy test at the same time. I wanted to do it, but it would double to triple the time involved. I did not necessarily plan on shooting 1 load all the time, but that would be nice. I am also going to work up a ladder with the Hornady 60 Vmax to use at longer ranges if need be. I think that 400 yards is a pretty long shot around here for matches. I am not opposed to loading 3 different rounds though either. I just wondered what a good speed is to try to achieve on this round. It seems that some guys want the higher velocity for reliable cycling, but, despite having adjustable gas, I think it makes sense to have less recoil. I don't think that being less than 1/2 MOA is critical enough to justify the extra recoil on a round for 100 yards or less. I think I will load one softer round and one faster round. Probably make some more of these three that I liked and then chrono them.

Hi guys. I just started reloading and worked up my first ladder for 223. My intent is to use the ammunition for 3 gun in one of several rifles, most of which are 16" barrels. Ramshot TAC HNDY 55 FMJ BT w/ C Lake City 1x, swaged, trimmed WSR primers My ladder was in .2-.3 grain increments from 24.0 to 26.9 grains. Fired through my JP-15 with 18" barrel and a friends 16" barreled AR. My intent was to test the ammunition for accuracy first. Upon determining accuracy and which load(s) I wish to explore further, I will chronograph them. If you look the max for 223 stops short of the apex of my ladder, however 556 continues up to about 27.0. We had gotten 2950 FPS out of 26.3 grains TAC in a past experiement. My question is.... how fast/hot do I WANT the ammunition to be? I got best results between the two rifles at 26.6, 25.7, and 24.8. So, I was trying to determine which makes the most sense to pursue. I wish they had been closer together in the ladder. The JP seemed to like hotter ammo and the more mil spec rifle seemed to like it midranged in my ladder. All of my ammunition shot better than the xm193 for comparison, which I was pleased about because this was my first attempt. I got about a 2-2.25" group out of the xm193 and my best group for my ammo was .4" at 100 yards, using a lead sled. The average for my loads were probably about 1.3-1.5" groups. Advice or suggestions please...? Thanks in advance.

Looks like the Lancer hand guard would fit. The OD of the thermal dissipator is 1.375, so KMR or NSR are out. I found that the weight of the JP RC rail in 15.5" is 14.5oz and the Lancer carbon version is 9.9oz. Sure is a lot of effort and money to drop 5 oz. I don't think I feel comfortable taking apart my JP, or letting a local smith do it either! No big deal for my other rifles though.

I had a very similar JP rifle built and I am also sorta disappointed in the weight, especially once I put a scope on it, even though its a fairly light scope setup. I have the Kahles K16i and a Bobro mount. I think the first difference I notice is that I am not using a 12 oclock rail. I also have the captured buffer/spring. I just have a CTR stock on mine, so I know you will see a big weight savings switching to a lighter stock. I thought about switching the hand guard, but I don't know what will fit over the thermal dissipator/heat sink or how much weight it would save? I wouldn't want to remove the heat sink. I really wish I had gotten a 16" instead of 18 in retrospect.

I have one and like it. I bought a Tromix complete upper and put it on a spare AR lower. Killed two deer with it this year in Indiana. Used the Barnes 300 TTSX from SBR. I am in the process of figuring out reloading 458. I sized cases last night. Going to try both the Barnes 300 TTSX and the Nosler 300 BT. Powders to try are H110, RE&, and A5744 (because that is what I could find out of the powders I have data for). The accurate web site, the new Nosler book, and the Lyman AR manual have loading data.

So, they aren't placed at an average drop, or based upon a common ammunition or anything? I'm trying to figure out why this is better than the other donut style reticles with mil measurements below. I like the cleaner sight picture of this scope, but I also like the donut reticles for close targets. The only reason I went with this reticle was that it seems to be the prevailing style, but I am yet to see exactly why.

They look kinda similar. What's the spacing on the drops on the G4B? BRT is Mils which lines up pretty close with 100/200, 300, 400, 500, 585 on .223. Thanks for asking this question. I can't find anyone who knows. I don't think I have posted the reticle pic I was given by their CS yet?

I bought the CZ 75 SP-01 shadow this year. It's my favorite pistol, but I sorta wish I had gotten an accushadow instead. I paid around $865 for mine and put $120 in CGW parts in it. It's a nice shooting handgun. Something like 2.5lb SA and 4.5 DA with only about 3mm of trigger reset. Why would I rather have the accushadow? I like the idea of squeezing a bit more accuracy out of it. Someone else on the forum can elaborate on this but... I'll fumble around at it using awkward terms and limited knowledge. The SP-01 shadow is USPSA production approved, but is not IDPA because of the long dust cover, whereas the 75 Shadow is approved for both. Is it "factory" for IDPA? Whatever it's called. I like the additional weight out front to mitigate recoil. I don't believe that any "custom" shadow is production approved IDPA/USPSA. Something about it not actually being from CZ factory. So, you get bumped into enhanced or something like that. Things I don't like.... I think it might have been in the first years run, 2010- 2011 maybe. I bought it new old stock on GB. The trigger overtravel stop is useless, whereas it works on other guns I have tried of the same model. I have tried another identical, but newer one, right next to mine with the same CGW springs and it was better. Other thing is I CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO RELOAD FOR IT! The chamber is really short and I have tried all sorts of OALS, but still have trouble getting anything to cycle reliably besides HNDY 115gr FMJ-RN. I just bought some S&B 124 FMJ RN and I am going to try to mimic them, because I have read that this gun was built to use that round. I have a VP9 too and it'll shoot anything I load.

Way to go! This is what I should have done. I went the other way, I bought a "new old stock" benelli 3 gun model, which was their discontinued version that came with the nordic 5 rd extension. 11024 Model. I thought it would get me closer to where I needed to be with minimal work but, it really wasn't... I opened the load port a LOT, changed all of the springs to TTI springs, TTI safety, trimmed the mag spring, added a rear stock QD, extended LM choke, and tuned my carrier latch. It did have the release tapped and an "oversized" button on it, but I think I'll change that out too. I couldnt do it myself it it wasn't tapped I guess. All said and done, I'm in just over 2g, which could be worse, but I feel like I would have come out a lot better with your route and my shotgun wouldnt have the dumb looking logo on it. I suppose that's how you learn.

Ah, yeah, you are right and thanks for replying. Although I do have a box or 2 of the old Sluggers, I was in fact, referring to the Federal Premier TruBall slugs. They feature a, go figure, ball of hard plastic behind the slug that is supposed to increase accuracy. They shoot great out of my M4, but it's got a T1 on it, so sight picture is essentially null and I think that is the issue. I have reviewed possible problems since I posted with this question. I am used to shotguns with no cant and no drop. I had played with the drop on the stock of my M2 and I think... that this altered my POI to be higher. Is this logical? I switched the stock back to the lowest drop setting and I expect this to bring the POA and POI closer. I may try it today. I don't "bench rest" slug guns on purpose, only to confirm my scope zero each year or when I change slugs. Frankly, I hate shooting slugs! BUT, that is what we have been forced to use in Indiana for as long as I can remember to take deer. I am close to switching to a "pistol caliber" rifle, which is now legal. I prefer the WInchester XP3 300 grain slugs @ around 2000 FPS from memory and used those for a few years preceded by the Win Supreme Partition at similar velocitiy. Last year I tried The Hornady SST offering and had a light primer strike on one the last day I hunted, so I will be returning to the XP3.

I had the money to blow on a scope and ammo and bacon. I guess I should have avoided the inevitable pitfall of an OP asking X or Y and someone comes along and recommends Z, despite it not being sollicited. In this case, I really can't disagree and I strongly considered Z, so I truthfully laid out my logic. I knew I would only buy one low power scope and I wanted it to be more awesome than affordable. It is. I can assure you, NO ONE is going to sponsor me for anything shooting related.

Ok, Kurt and Mark, back to shotguns and slugs through vent rib barrels and jumping on this thread. I shot my Benelli M2 21" field yesterday for the first time. I was very surprised how much recoil the shotgun has. It is my lightest 12 gauge. My benelli m4 is heavy enough that even remington Truball slugs are fairly comfy and very accurate. My dedicated slug guns aren't fun to shoot, but they are heavy barrels and tame slugs down a fair amount. Through the M2, the Truballs were PUNISHING! I mean awful! I was totally taken back. Also, at 25 yards, they were about 6" high. I only shot 2 because, well, it hurt a lot, but they were about 3" apart and 6" high. 00 was uncomfortable, but not intolerable and field loads just gave more recoil than I am used to, however I could deal with that. I have ordered some Fiocchi reduced recoil slugs and hope that helps with recoil and poi. Will the fiocchi slugs shoot with a lower poi given reduced power and recoil? If not, I have got to get a rear sight for sure.

.1 I looked at the Vortex Razor. It seemed nice, but it's a beast of a scope. Other than price, I couldn't find advantage, but as far as advantages go... it's a big one. There is a few advantages. 1. Price 2. Life time warranty vs 5 years for Swarovski. 3. I prefer the illuminated portion of the Vortex reticle. Red vs Amber and .5 moa vs 1.5. Pat Kahles is also lifetime. I zerod my Kahles yesterday. I had to do it indoors at 25 yards, but I really like this scope. I didn't consider the swarovski at all, as the Kahles k16i seems to be the sortof updated version of swarovskis offering. It's super robust, but light. My only other consideration was the Vortex. The Vortex is a LOT cheaper, a LOT bigger and heavier. My JP-15 is already fairly heavy, so I didn't want to add weight. I think the Kahles glass is better, but I can't tell you exactly how much, it's a LOT lighter, and LOT more expensive. I got mine for around 2050 delivered from Optics Planet with no tax obviously. I had an 11% off promotional code from them.

.1 I looked at the Vortex Razor. It seemed nice, but it's a beast of a scope. Other than price, I couldn't find advantage, but as far as advantages go... it's a big one.

This is my Kahles K16i. I got it last month from Optics planet. I'm very impressed by it so far, just playing with it in my house. Going to take it out tomorrow. It feels almost as fast as my aimpoints on 1x and the dot is nicer. This is the G4B reticle. Still trying to figure out what the hell the subtensions mean, but you can't see those in the photo. I moved the scope further back in the mount than you see it here. I like my stock collapsed normally, so that i am not cantilevering as much weight out, but I decided to put the scope back further in the mount and use my stock at 2 clicks out. That way I have room to move the stock in to compensate for thicker clothing. EDIT: At 1x the dot is 5.2" @100 yds and at 6x the dot is .87"@ 100 yds

Good point Kurt. Let me preface this in saying, I am not arguing, just discussing in a friendly and constructive manner. I had thought of the cryo process and forgot to mention it. I just really doubt that the cryo processing seriously alters the coefficient of thermal expansion, but I want to believe it. That's beyond my knowledge, but I think that the "stress relief" is intended to prevent failure of the steel due to internal molecular stress concentrations created during manufacturing and it should also increase wear resistance of the steel. So that would mean you are less likely to see cracking of the steel under use or well, wear on the barrel obviously. I am a Benelli fan, as I have an M2 and an M4.