csailer

oh, it's huck!!!! hey!!! I need to respond to your text later lol. Keep rippin!!

Just trying my best always learning and growing!! make it happen

Lots of good info here. I will add. Technique is huge. Where do your eyes go? How do you twist/turn the gun? Are your hands moving at the same time or step 1 step 2 type of steps. How are you grabbing the mag? What's the mag path. How do you roll the gun back out? Rob E and Max M have good videos on reloads. Get the technique down, slo mo your runs and breaks them down......thenn do it until your hands bleed and get it down!! you got this.

Use both techniques. See how the sights track for you. Pick the one that has the most linear, repeatable dot path. for each their own but the same guiding principal.

S&B, Geco, and PMC are all good. I used to shoot a bunch of factory and never had a problem with those 3......where some other factory companies I had WILD/random things with it.... best of luck

Lots of great info and advice here. Recently found dry fire king and they have some great resources for dry fire if you don't have a huge dry fire dojo and for me makes it a little more fun and mixes it up. Cheers

your hand eye coordination is likely really good, but now it's the technique that must be applied. Get your eyes to lead and pop/snap to the center of the next target. Take a walk through and place little visual landmarks on the center of each target. Only focus on that spot as the acceptable landing/aiming zone. Watch as your eyes snap to it with intense focus and your gun will meet it. Now be patient and let the gun get there. Cheers

124 is a great happy medium. 115's will be snappier but all return faster. 147s will be softer but return the gun slower. 124's are perfect for me. I think you should get your friend's best 115, 124, and 147 load. Shoot doubles with the loads and choose for yourself. Truly don't think it matters thattttt much. Best of luck.

I am ready and would if I could, but cannot with my current outside of shooting obligations around that time. I will shoot limited or production nats next year.

lol

I used a Blade Tech with BOSS hanger for years. Get a little adjustment knob too. It's a solid setup no doubt.

Find 2 shooter that have a nice setup who are kind enough to let you try it. Shoot doubles, transition the gun a bit, and see how it points and feels in your hand. Bring a few boxes of 124 to the range and let it rip! Try the shadow 2 as well, it's a quality pistol too.

Very tough to bounce around all the time. You can get pretty close to tour normal shooting ability with about 400 rounds on a single day, but it's tough to wake up the next day with the same tuning. It takes months of repeated practice on the same platform to be consistently good behind the gun. Otherwise you're still thinking about how you shoot the gun and not fully tuned. If you consistently train multiple guns and keep the skills with multiple guns at a decent tuned level it becomes easier, but not easy. Optics to optics is better, optics to irons is the hardest. There is value in learning different platforms and making each gun "work" - sights track up and down, and return. oh....and make the bullets go where you want. CS

In theory, prep is not needed. With a perfect grip, you can pull the trigger with or without prep and not disturb the sights. Prep is a CYA for a sub optimal grip. With the speed we shoot at and the perfect grip being something we always chase, I find it wise to add prep on more difficult shots. I drop queues on parts of the stage that require a bit more prep. Work towards needing it less by building a more optimal grip for not disturbing the sights when pulling the trigger.

Don Fraley, AWT. Beautiful 1911 40 cal, runs great, couldn't be happier. CS

Get dry fire targets and run them inside. A few companies (I think Taylor freelance) makes the stages on boards sized down. Huge help for visual training. CS

Get a beater as close as possible to your match gun for practice and training. Keep the match gun fresh and only shoot it when close to the match and last dry fire sessions.

I lived on university campus for 4 years with little access to real guns. Airsoft replicas, SRT, and other tools will keep vision, grip, etc. Gun handling from a rig comes back quick when back stateside. CS

Could be zero. Could be not letting the sights return to center, especially if you're sight focus and let it steady high rather than maintaining focus on the center and letting the sights return to that same middle spot. Could be either. Have someone else zero or bench your gun and pay attention to where your eyes focus and where your sights are actually relative to the target when then gun goes bang. CS

3 moa is awesome. I find 6 to be too big on tight partials or targets with a lot of distance. You want to see any streaking or movement in the sights clearly with plenty of space on the target to see it. You can turn a 3 up bright and it's like a dim 6moa, but you cannot turn a 6 down to act like a 3 on far shots or mini steel. Be warned, there is too low of a birghtness on a 3 Moa that will make you hunt for the dot and focus on it rather than staying target focus, but keep it bright enough. 3moa for ipsc/uspsa, steel challenge go 6 or 8. CS

Ping pong ball on optic. Apply during make ready, falls off on draw. -CS

I have 6 Atlas 140mm magazines with grams guts and tti Basepads. I always test gear before I use it in a match, and still use Sti gen 2 mags with grams guts as my main match magazines. Once these are proven a bit more (at this point nothing makes me think that they won't) I plan to make a switch to them or at least cycle then in as part of the match set. I have shot 3,500 rounds through them (used them pretty much exclusively) since I got them a few months ago and I have had 0 problems. -CS

I had someone ping me on this one so I'll respond. This depends on a few things, the material used/manufacturer of parts and the fit. Some of the lower end massed produced open guns use MIM parts while most custom guns use better parts, made with better processes and materials. If you want a gun to last a long time you need to use high quality parts from reputable manufacturers. The builder and fit is super important. The timing of the gun and how they fit parts is a big deal for reliability and longevity of the gun. Ask your open gun friends and ask them how many rounds they have on the gun and how it runs for them. Also ask how they care for the gun.....if someone never changes parts or springs, cleans it, tunes mags etc. it's not a good representative of the builder/quality of the gun. I've had 2 guns break under 20-30k rounds (frame cracks, slide cracks, barrel splitting, etc), bad parts and poor timing/fit. I've also had guns go 60k (and still running) with good parts, good fit, and regular maintenance. For open (and any division really) if you want to be competitive and not pull out all of your hair you need AT LEAST 2 guns. 1 match and 1 practice. Buy 1 gun, shoot it up to 10k or a little more, buy a backup, now make the first gun your match gun, break in your backup up to 10k then decide which you like the feel of more. Now make that the match gun, the other gun the backup. Every year buy a new gun (put deposit down to avoid waiting all season with your preferred builder) with the same exact specs and make that your new match gun once tested. Bottom line. Pick a builder that uses good parts, good reputation, and builds them correctly (fit well, timing, etc). Things break, but some have parts break far less than others. Take note, buy accordingly and enjoy the game. Good luck

Sig Romeo 3 Max of XL are the way to go. Great glass, crisp dot, does well in the sun, reliable, list goes on. XL is wider and I'm used to wide dots, so it was an easy choice. I like wide dots, can see a little bit more, but mostly personal preference.

No problem, happy to help! Was a good one this weekend! Hope to see you next year!