RudyVey
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Posts posted by RudyVey
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Walnut, get it in the pet store, its lizard bedding
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You should maybe mention the company's name so others stay away and do not get burned like you.
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52 minutes ago, Jim Watson said:
They have been all over me since I considered their "medium" primer to be a sign of a hoax or scam. I guess I will have to try some as my needs call for a purchase.
They maybe meant Magnum....not medium
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9 hours ago, xrayfk05 said:
I think mine came with some spart parts including a motor so chances are slim you'll need a backup unit.
Mine, too.
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40 minutes ago, RGC said:
Are these yet available? I had a couple years ago and they are far superior to anything else I have used.
They are still the best system! Maybe do a search online or send a message to the email posted in the first post
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6 hours ago, willfully armed said:
This should only be a necessity when using extruded powders. And, honestly when Dillon suggested I use an aquarium air pump, I was extremely disappointed in their problem solving abilities. I do understand the vibrating action helps settle powder grains, but an air pump isn't the answer. And honestly they should at least offer an aftermarket option.
I just hopped on the ol interwebz and ordered a ladies vibrator. Works like a charm on IMR4198.
How do you use it: inside or outside......
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Maybe the wad cutters are lubed...
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45 minutes ago, Smokey99 said:
My 550 from 1984 is threaded. A lock washer plus two flat washers above the crank and flat washer and nut below.
Both of mine, and I think they might be about 10 years old have the same: washer on top, and washer and lock-nut on from the bottom. I have upgraded to the handle that is angled, with rollergrip, and both the old straight ones have also a thread and nuts.
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4 hours ago, ysrracer said:
These work great
Smart Weigh GEM20-20g x 0.001 grams, High Precision Digital Milligram Jewelry Scale, Reloading, Jewelry and Gems Scale, Calibration Weights and Tweezers Included
That is the one I have.
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1 hour ago, HesedTech said:
I have an expensive scientific scale and a cheap Amazon scale. For precision the scientific scale is nice but not worth it for normal reloading. My cheap Amazon scale does the job consistently +- .1 grain and if your load isn’t that critical spend less.
Hope that answers the need to spend $ on brand names.Totally agree with the cheaper Amazon scale. I used to work for 50 year as a chemist and used analytical scales a lot. I got a little Amazon scale and compared it to the lab scales with graduated/certified weights = right on!! I think I paid something like $20 or so. It sits on a slab of granite, which sits on a thick rubber pad.
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Are you using the same brass or is it a mix?
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On 3/17/2023 at 9:26 PM, Obvious said:
Thought this might be the best place to ask this, I used to be able to distinctly feel my primers seat in my pistol brass. Not quite a crunch, but I’d feel the resistance of them insert and bottom out. After tear down and cleaning, I no longer feel this but I’ve also run out of the previous brand of primers. Is this primer specific or did I not tighten something enough? Currently the primer insertion method just feels mushy the whole way through and I’m not sure if I seated it correctly unless I check it.
I found this to be brass depending, some have really lose primer holes. Whenever I feel that I did not seat a primer, I check, and always there is the primer. Other brass gives me the slight resistance when seating a primer. Beats me now which brass type it was, but I remember correctly, is that GFL gives little resistance.
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Have no problems with Norma brass on my 550 either. I have checked quite a few cases, but never thought that the lil hole is smaller than any other brand.
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Not sure if the powder measures differ much from a 550 to a 1100. I use some machined weights in my powder hoppers. The late father of a friend was a big re-loader and he always was striving to the perfect powder weight. He also was a machinist and eventually he came up with these weights. They are a pound and a half in weight, including the Dillon hopper lid. I get very small deviations in the throw, often 0.01-0.02 when doing several consecutive drops, but are always below 0.05+/-.
My powders are Vectan Prima V, CFE Pistol and Vectan Ba 9 1/2.
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1 hour ago, Miranda said:
ok some quick fact checking says:
Lead metal is lower than a year ago.
copper is doing a little more than inflation.
(depends on what you think is the inflation rate...)
so no... the raw materials for small arms ammo are not scarce.
If there were any truth to that radio broadcast as depicted,
we would be swimming in primers because ammo makers
would not have cases nor bullets to make ammo.
I also assume manufacturers will sell what they can.
perhaps machinery for making ammo is in high demand...
and again it does not explain the primer prices we are enjoying.
I have a cache of lead and thought for a minute I'd be able
to sell it for more than I paid.
Not yet.
miranda
Could you imagine how much money they must have lost before the pandemic when primers were only $30/k.....and ammo was $10/50 rounds for 9 mm.....
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Lee dies just work fine!
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Do not believe the prices come down anytime soon. We are getting milked....and they make super profits.
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5 hours ago, RGA said:
For comparisons sake I added 2 pics of factory S&B cases fired in my Q5. The 3rd pic is from the OP BlackApache's case failure. It looks like I see 2 ring markings from the stepped chamber. Considering that it concerns a reloaded case this could indicate the case was not fully chambered the 2nd firing.
I shoot a lot of reloads in my Walther , the ring is normally very thin and fine.
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55 minutes ago, ysrracer said:
Exactly, there's no shortage of tubes
not yet.....
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I had a SQD and it is great if you load just one caliber (handgun that is), but now I run two 550's, one set up for large primer for .45 acp and one for small primers for 9, 38 spl and 357 mag. Personally I did like the SQD, but I am more comfy with the two 550's. The only benefit I see for a 750 would be the fifth station for a powder check for the long rounds 38 and 357 mag.
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2 hours ago, Orion1 said:
That's correct, the threaded link arm pin needs grease. However, the pin will not come out. I just posted pictures above this message. What machine will remove these threaded link arm pins out, I've put all I got into it with a punch and hammer and it won't move more than what is pictured. Any help would be appreciated. I just got in 4,500 45 ACP bullets and was looking forward to reloading during my two weeks off!
There two small holes in front of the top of the link arms. You can see these holes on the schematic that was posted.
This is where you have to put some grease i from time to time. I use an old syringe with a large diameter needle. Works great.
I do not think you are supposed to take the pin out for applying lubrication.
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1 hour ago, Boomstick303 said:
Typically I found a grain of powder has found its way into the gage that causes more case gage failures. As long as you are loading your ammo correctly with properly prepped brass.
This is so true!! A can of air does a great job cleaning any powder or other debris out of the gauge, just give it a quick spray and the rounds are fine fitting in the gauge.
Compressed air is quite cheap in cans and it is what I always use around the press, helps a lot to clean up small powder spills, and other stuff that may interfere. I also tumble dry, so there is often a kernel of the media that "needs to go away."..
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no, never had an issue, they all what I use for years
Casefeeder for Dillon 550B
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Same here, did not save much time, as I needed to often correct the brass. Eventually, I took it off and feed by hand again. However, .357 mag fed very well, but 9 was a pita.