Fuzz
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Posts posted by Fuzz
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2 minutes ago, Sarge said:
Yes, it's highly recommended as long as you are in a division where they are legal. Starts like that are the only reason I have a magnet on my Open rig.
They ever fall off? Any thing I should be careful of?
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So I have an upcoming match that has 5-6 stages with ammo on barrel starts. Unless they change the wording before the match I was planning on picking up the second mag and stick on a magnet. Is this recommended ? Has anyone done this? what should I be careful of? Anything else I am missing?
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Thanks
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I watched a guy at a match this weekend cleaning his mags. As he did this he would stretch out the spring. I have never seen this before. Is this helpful? Does it add extra wear to the spring? Curious what everyone thinks.
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23 hours ago, BJB said:
Yes, I've tested reloaded brass against reloaded Federal aluminium cases with the same 9mm minor load. I tested chrono & accuracy at 25 yds.
1) There was no difference in chrono.
2) Brass appeared to be very slightly more accurate at 25 yd but it was so close that it really didn't matter. I assumed the accuracy difference was because the aluminum didn't have the same neck tension as brass d/t the different metallurgy.
3) I shot mags mixed with reloaded brass & aluminum & couldn't tell the difference.
4) I gave a bunch of the reloaded aluminum rounds to friends who shot them in their firearms flawlessly, although they didn't test for accuracy, etc.
5) I've reloaded an aluminum case & took it out back & fired it & repeated this 8 times one afternoon looking for failure but it was fine each time.
6) I experienced no bullet setback with the aluminum cases but I do use an undersize die.
7) The aluminum was dirtier to shoot. The metal doesn't seal the chamber as good or as fast as brass does upon firing so there is a little gas leaking back around the case before the chamber seal is achieved. Thus, the chamber and breach area is dirtier with aluminum.
8 The aluminum does appear to work harden and be more prone to case failure over multiple firings than brass. There were more splits encountered at the case mouth over time in aluminum cases that had been fired multiple times than I've ever encountered with brass.
9) The aluminum case primer pockets became loose sooner than brass.
10) The aluminum cleaned up faster and better in my dry media tumbler.
I messed with reloading the aluminum cases just to do it, simple as that. I don't reload aluminum because brass is better. In the past, if I went to a class that will be leaving a bunch of hulls on the ground I'd often bring a lot of that Federal Champion aluminum stuff. I have no issue with that. I would not use reloaded aluminum in a match because I think that they would be more prone to case failure. I didn't see case separation in my experimenting with aluminum but I do think it would be more prone to this failure, as well as split cases.
For your inquiry about using "not-fired" aluminum cases at a match, not aluminum cases with multiple reloadings:
l'd think that you should be OK. I didn't start seeing the aluminum failures until the metal was work hardened after multiple firings & reloadings. Early on in my USPSA shooting I actually shot some of that factory aluminum stuff because of the cost. It ran fine, although it was less accurate at distance. Use some of that aluminum you mentioned in a local match and find out for yourself. If it messes up in a local match it's no big deal. For a bigger match, use brass just to be safe.
Thanks this was extremely helpful and insightful.
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1 hour ago, Furrly said:
Who sells these, curious??
The guy I spoke to about this and showed me his and let me shoot a couple of his has this info. At this point I don't have the contact info for him and he did not come to this months match (It rained hard for the match, that is hard to imagine isn't it) I will get this info and get back with you when I hook up with him again. I wish I had gotten it but I blew it off at first thought but then got thinking about it. I will let you know when I do.
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5 hours ago, MikeBurgess said:
.03 ea is cheep for a case and primer in would run them. I would chrono a few before I loaded a bunch, but i would suspect they will be very close to normal brass for loading.
The only real issue with aluminum cases is corrosion on scratched cases causing cracks. I talked to a guy that was around at the development of the Blaser aluminum cases and he said he reloaded the same case 20+ times without any issue.
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
I am not really planning on reloading any of them. I think just using them for match ammo which is a lost brass deal anyway.
This save me the processing time I spend on brass and if the bullet hits the same spot on target I should be good.
Has anyone ever tested a Brass casing and an Aluminum casing with the same load in them? Any differences?
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8 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
Questions you must ask:
- How do you know it’s new?
- What are the primers?
- Who is the manufacture and what do they recommend?
- Aluminum will gall easier on dies and do they need to be sized?
- Cracks?
- Good deals may lead to higher expenditures in the future.
Personally I would pass.
1. I have seen them and seen him shoot them. They are new cases with no scratches.
2. This is a question that I asked him and he is finding out. So what if they are Seller and Beloit. They go bang every time. He 10000 rounds on them.
3. Unknown but does it matter?
4. They are new so no Rollsizing or pass through dies to use. This is the big advantage in my opinion. He does run them through the sizing die with no decapping pin or primers for obvious reasons.
5. New so no cracks.
6. What higher expenditures are you speaking of? Aluminum is softer than Brass so no extra wear? ??????
Not trying to sell anyone on them. Just looking at options here.
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Local guy has new Aluminum cases for 40S&W with primers in them. .03 each. This is what I pay for brass and primers not counting processing time. Since I have to leave them at the matches I thought I might look into this.
Anyone loading new Aluminum?
Would these effect my load data?
Any down sides?
Well any thoughts on this?
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After shooting Single Stack USPSA for a few years and one year of Limited now. I decided to move a magazine to the center belly area from the side where I was use to finding it from the single stack division.
I have spent the winter dry firing and doing the mag swap. It was going real well and I was liking the switch.
First match this last weekend and we had 5 stages and a classifier. I could not mentally draw that magazine for the whole match. Even on the classifier when I only took the mag in the front with me, I went for the side and there was nothing there. Then I grabbed the middle and well that pretty much screwed the classifier up.
So how do I break this habit? After a winter of dry fire you would think it would be. Nope not even close.
Suggestions? Do I just keep on the side pouch and go with it?
What does everyone think ?
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7 minutes ago, Frankly said:
You buy the ratchet parts and drill/punch two holes in your old belt to mount the hardware.
https://www.ratchetingbuckles.com/
Carbon Arms also sells bolts ready to go.
How well do they work? Have you used them?
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Just curious and looking into the systems and what is out there.
I know the Safariland system is out there but that would mean replacing 3 whole rigs and attachments. That would be salty.
Is there a system for the Velcro belt systems like Double Alpha?
How well do they work?
Pro's
Con's
Thanks
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59 minutes ago, Postal Bob said:
Like stated, the cartridges need to reach the temperature outside first, to be considered shooting them at that temperature.
Btw, for N320, I'm using 4.6 gr over a 180 gr coated bullet. This gives me a PF from 168-171 depending on temperature. 4.8 gr gives me near 177 pf, way more than is needed.
My Chrono over 50 rounds out of my DVC Limited and Eagle both were at 951 fps average. Or about 171. That is about close as I like it.
Maybe Chronos are slightly different but that is what mine is showing. This is the only chrono I have tested it on.
Also I am 1.17 length which both guns like
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Never Mind I figured it out. Something was catching. It goes all the way down.
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1 minute ago, GrumpyOne said:
If they didn't have time to get cold, then it seems that they would chrono at the 70 degrees. It's not the temperature outside that is the issue, it's the temperature of the powder. Loading them at 90 degrees or at 32 degrees makes no difference. Do a test. Load 50 rounds up, keep some in the house (warm) and leave some outside (cold). Try to keep the warm ones warm as long as you can, then quickly run them through the chrono while they are still warm.
Good thinking I will try this tomorrow. Should be easy enough.
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Just added a Lee Factory Crimp Die for 40 S&W using sns .400 180 flat point. N320 @ 4.8 gr.
I answered my own question and figured it out.
I have been running all my 40 cal casings through the GRX resizing die for a couple years now. When I would plunk test them in the Shockbottle I would get anywhere from 2 - 6 that would not pass. I would use them for practice and they always fired.
I decided to try the Lee Factory Crimp Die and just ran a couple hundred through. When shockbottled these were now 100% not one failure. Next step is the accuracy test. Impressed with Lee FCD
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My question would be this. I loaded the bullets in the house where it is 70 degrees. Then I walk out the back to my range and chrono them.
It's 38 degrees outside. how will this effect them. I am 175 pf with 180 gr sns fp pushed by 4.8 N320.
I know this just jacks up everything LOL.
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58 minutes ago, echotango said:
The button will not fit into the frame. It will bash the crap out of it. Someone I know put the larger one in an sti frame and it was all messed up. Only buy the smaller head version. I think EGW has changed the part numbers to only one as they only make the smaller head version to fit all frames.
Thanks
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This is the Item description from SC.
5" Tungsten rod. Either for the 1911(comes with spring plug and no takedown hole) or for the STI(no spring plug but with take down hole and smaller head for STI frame recess cut). The sti rod is higher because EGW charges more to drill takedown hole and trim head down to Sti size.
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I shoot USPSA and thought might help a little with recoil. Nothing more. The gun is reliable and do not wish to sacrifice that.
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I am considering a Tungsten guide rod in my STI Eagle. 40 S&W. On Shooters Connection they say something about there being a different size for STI than a normal 1911. I was not aware of this so I thought I would make sure before ordering.
What do I need to know or consider here?
Thanks for your help.
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22 hours ago, Foxj66 said:
I believe the newer ones also have another coil on the springs in the 9rd mags. Call Tripp and they will get you taken care of great people to deal with.
I took your advice and called them today. They are great. They make a kit that is basically a different follower and a 13 coil spring. $7.95 per mag. So that's a bargain since you get the extra springs for the others. Thanks good deal.
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I have several Cory 9 round mags for 40/10mm. Can they be made into 10 rounders? How? New Basepad? Spring, follower.
Thanks for any help.
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I just put an 11# in and it is much better now. Thanks for all the answers
Magnets.
in Stage Comments or Questions
Posted
Thanks Gentlemen for the answers.