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shooterDrew

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Posts posted by shooterDrew

  1. Easy place to start is to go with some coated lead, accurate and cheap. Go to SNS casting or blue bullets and order a case of 124gr rn. Check the 9mm reloading threads for load data and give it hell. Some people like to load 135s, 147s or even some 160s. I’m a 2 division GM and about 93% in production, that being said for a frame of reference on experience, I’ve shot a boat load of various weights and to be honest there’s very little difference, esp if you’re just getting started. I started out shooting heavier weights and ultimately migrated to 124gr because I got more bullets per case- but even there the per bullet cost is pretty much the same. Don’t over think it. There’s a TON of stuff that will impact your score more than minuscule differences in 9 minor loads. Your recoil spring weight being appropriate will probably be more important than what bullet weight you choose.

    If you’re set on trying a bunch of different bullet weights I am pretty sure most of the coated bullet companies offer sample packs with various options included.




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  2. I think you reach a point of diminishing returns with triggers and past that point other things matter much more.  How the pistol behaves under recoil and how easy it is to get a repeatable index out of the holster and when regripping after a reload.  Those two things if not done right are big time eaters.

    Totally agree


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  3. Got some rounds thru it. Very few, but enough to get a feel for the gun. The stock trigger is no where near a tuned CZ... not surprising. It’s not too bad tho. I don’t have a gauge but I’d guess it in the 8-9lbs DA /4 SA range? Compared to a stock CZ that’s very solid. Thru a random turn of fate I also got my hands on one that’s been tricked out with the LTT trigger job- and an 11lbs hammer spring. Now that one is pretty impressive. While still not quite as smooth as the tuned CZ, it’s a great trigger and damn close. I really only think the difference would be noticeable when doing the “holy s#!t this trigger is light/smooth/good” slow dryfire routine. Much like the difference between the 8.5 and 11.5 hammer spring I used to run in my CZ accushadow. Sure the 8.5 made for an unbelievably light DA, but there was zero benefit on the timer and added risk of light strikes. I’ve only shot a handful of rounds thru the light LTT, but I purposefully included various types of factory ammo, even with the light hammer spring it did not have any light strikes. I’ll keep an eye on that and as soon as one pops up I’ll bump the hammer spring up a pound. I’ve got a 12lbs Wilson available that notes on the packaging it will reliably set off any domestically produced primers... I doubt I’ll be shooting any Russian stuff so that sounds good to me l, also LTT claims the 13lbs spring will run 100% of primers. So worst case I bump it up a couple and end up in the 6-7lbs DA range.

    I guess one thing of note between the beretta and CZ: when the CZ DA gets down in the 6lbs range the SA drops down around 2lbs and the short reset on the SA is great.. I like that. It seems the beretta doesn’t get much below 3lbs if at all and the reset isn’t as short. I’d have to guess due to the FPB? I’m not a gunsmith so I’m just guessing. Either way the trigger trophy goes to the CZ, but not my too much. I’m definitely digging the beretta and gonna give it a run for a while.


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  4. If you get one let me know how you like it.  I'm a die hard CZ fan but the LTT has my attention.

    I finally bit the bullet. I had one in the “cart” about 50x and never pulled the trigger till a couple days ago when I found them on sale. $859 shipped- thought that was a good deal since they’re 1000 from LTT website. But now I’ll have to add the trigger job in a bag. I’m a CZ guy too, and skeptical that the beretta can be worked as well as the cz, hopefully it surprise me!


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  5. The extended mag release is a Beretta OEM part
     
    A bigger question is this: is this pistol going to get the shaft like the CZ Accushadow did a few years ago?  The LTT is made by Langdon Tactical and sold by Beretta USA, exactly the same situation that the Accushadow got banned for.
     
    Methinks the Wilson connection will keep the LTT kosher under the table.

    Good point. But I’d have to guess the post manufacture gunsmithing to get that bushing installed was the culprit for the Accushadow.. and from what I can tell the LTT is a mix of diff berettas but all work is complete when it leaves beretta (minus any internal trigger work by EL) so it would be safe in that respect.

    Thanks for the response!


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  6. is the Beretta 92 Elite LTT legal for SSP division? I’ve searched around and can’t find an answer if it’s good for SSP or only ESP. I guess my question is about the extended mag release that comes on them. Any knowledge is appreciated! Thanks!!
     
     
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  7. I dropped a Cylinder and Slide ultra match kit into an STI edge. It’s listed as 3.5 lbs but is definitely closer to 2. Excellent crisp break but not great reset. I also have a drop in pro-match kit from Nowlin. The Nowlin is a hair heavier, probably close to 3, but has less overall movement and much better reset. Of the two I’d go Nowlin if I was buying again.


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  8. Thank you for the comments. I definitely agree there are things more to focus on.  Just wondering if I'm missing the boat by not having things shut down to 1.5/1.75lbs. I think ,concentrating only on the subject matter of trigger poundage,a lot has to do with where the weight is in the pull. Having a little extra tension on the pre traveling and coming up to a somewhat firm wall helps me to prep for tight/long shots. But at 2.5 - 3 lbs still light enough to pull straight through on closer targets and maintain accuracy and both cases. I find it difficult to prep the trigger on a 1.5 lb trigger, coming straight through when not intending to.

    With a trigger that light I would not recommend touching it till you want it to go off! Haha. As far as weight goes I would LOVE to have a 1.5lbs trigger that I trusted to be reliable. I haven’t found one yet unfortunately. I’m sure they’re out there. I would agree with above that there’s no advantage to going heavier. But I don’t think there’s a real noticeable disadvantage on a stage either. I played with breaking 2 lbs last year on my limited gun and had hammer follow issues all year. This year I had a custom gun built and it’s got a 2.5-3lbs trigger in it and I’m loving it. I would be thrilled to have the same trust in it and get it tuned down to 1-1.5 but after last season that ain’t happening.

    Truth be told I actually made GM in Limited shooting a borrowed, stock, STI DVC (while my gun was getting worked on) and the only major match I’ve ever won high overall I was shooting the same stock DVC.... it definitely didn’t have a 1lbs trigger.


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  9. I own several DPPs and 1 RMR, the DPPs are on range guns and the RMR is on home defense pistol.  I think, and it has been mentioned many times, the RMR is more robust but it has a much smaller window which doesn't work as well for me in competition.  Also the battery on the DPP can be accessed without removing the optic allowing for faster change and no possibility of losing zero (at least from a battery replacement perspective).  

    This^^^^

    I also own both and use them the same way as mentioned above. Totally agree. I love the deltapoint for my open gun. I love the RMR for my edc Glock 19. They each fill that role well.


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  10. If you have no experience with a red dot sight or how to operate or zero a dot, it really isn’t that hard. First, set up a USPSA sized target and put a paster on the white side in the center of the target. After your dot‘s been mounted but before you make any adjustments I would recommend the following. Start by firing one shot at 5 yards holding the dot on the paster and being careful to make the shot as accurate as possible. If the impact is within several inches of the paster in any direction I would back up to 10 yards and fire another shot. If the dot is still within several inches of the paster I would then back up to 15 yards and fire a group of three. I would then consult your manual and make adjustments to the site accordingly to bring the shot on to the paster from the center of the group that was fired. This might take a few groups to accomplish a good zero. To finish up I’d fire a 5 or 10 round group to confirm the gun is grouping is consistently. You can replace 15 yards with whatever distance you would like to have the gun zeroed at. If the bullet impacts considerably far away from the paster at the closer distances you may need to make large adjustments from the start to get the bullet impacting near the aiming point so that you are on paper at the further distances.


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  11. I have a Walther Q5 Match with a Trigicon Dual RMR. I ended up taking off the front sight as I could not co-witness. Assuming your front sight is correctly positioned the bullet will fall in the right location, but the (physical) height of your Burris also comes into play. On my gun I simply could not get the red dot low enough to align with the front sight, so removing the front sight took it out of the equation and I was not trying to find both the front sight and the red dot. If I mill my slide and lower the red dot that will help, but I'm currently mill less.

    I do not believe the Walther Q5 match has correct co-witness height sights. And unless I’m mistaken, totally possible, the rear sight comes completely off when you mount the dot. When you are co-witnessing through the optic you should not need to bottom out the red dot adjustment. If both the rear notch and front post are able to be aligned inside/thru the glass then it will likely take minimal adjustment to position the dot correctly over the front sight. If you are trying to do that without a rear sight you are definitely not going to be zeroing the dot. If you don’t have the ability to correctly align the front and rear sight thru the RD then you should ignore the front sight post when you Zero the dot.


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  12. Co-Witnessing means to be able to see the iron sights and align them thru the glass of a red dot sight. It’s a means of having a back up sighting system available in case of dot failure. Lots of times that means a higher than traditional iron sight is needed. I am pretty sure the M&P Cores come with tall irons that will accomplish this.

     

     

    An easy way to get a good start on zeroing your red dot would be to adjust it so that the dot sights right on top of the top edge of your front post when the front and rear are aligned. You might still need some adjustment to get it dead on but this will be close.

     

    This will also make “finding the dot” a little easier for you until you get some reps in and train past that problem. Just draw the gun and align the irons like a normal gun and boom- there’s the dot

     

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  13. I just had a build completed by Spencer Race Guns using a Nowlin .40 bull barrel and pro match action kit. Very happy with both. The trigger kit yielded a really nice crisp trigger with almost no pre-travel, and very little (if any) over-travel. The barrel looks very well made and has produced tight groups with my reloads.. which were just the bullets I’d cranked out last season for my STI.

     

    I had egw trigger parts in my STI, and while it produced a good trigger as well I actually prefer this new one from the nowlin parts. The nowlin is a tad heavier (still sub 3lbs) but had less movement before and after the break ... granted the egw parts were installed and fit by a gunsmith and the nowlin parts were literally just dropped in.

     

     

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  14. Setting up matches on the local level can be enough of a headache. I can not imagine the amount of work that went into this scale of an event. Thank you to everyone who was involved! I shot like dog s#!t but still managed to enjoy myself quite a bit. It seems there are some people that are not fans of universal, I’m not one of them. I’ve enjoyed every match I’ve been able to shoot down there- and I’ve yet to come away thinking it was easy. I only wish I lived a little closer so I could shoot there more regularly. Can’t wait for next year!


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  15. Another one for Go-Guns here. I have them on my limited guns and my open gun. I have pretty good size hands and the way these end up fitting when installed on STI pattern frame holes makes it work well. It would also work well for smaller hands. The rest sits right above the slide stop.


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  16. If you're used to reloading 140's for your 40/limited gun.  Stay with what you are already used to.
    2 140's and 1 170 is all you will ever need unless you drop two mags or have a major gun glitch that you have to clear your gun twice in a stage.
    IF that happens: the stage, possibly the match is down the drain anyway!


    I agree here. If you’re already set up with some 140s or use them in Limited go with 140s. If you’re buying your first set of mags and don’t shoot limited go with the 155s or all 170s. I shoot limited and have 140s for my open gun too, so when I got a 155 I noticed it was a little different to reload due to the extra length. Nothing big but when you’re pushing it the difference between the two could be enough to cause a bobble. And the extra couple rounds don’t make any real difference 99.9% of the time. I find that I rarely use the 155. I’d say best bet if you’re an open only guy would be just to only have 170s and practice only with them. Then you’re always maxed out..


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  17. I have owned the LNL with Casefeeder, my best friend owned a 650 with Casefeeder.  I have used both for many years loading 9 and 45.  
     
    I also loaded on a rate of around 400-500 rph on my LNL, and probably 2-300 rph faster on the 650. The 650 is smoother than the LNL.  Someone mentioned that with the LNL, you have to “feel” the press whereas the 650, you just crank the rounds out.  I couldn’t agree more.  
     
    You have already saved your money by investing in a machine, like I did, so you won’t save more money by upgrading your machine.  However, I realized my time was more valuable to me than make Bullets at 400-500 rph.   I sold my LNL and upgraded to a 1050 with bullet feeder, I have absolutely no regrets and wished I had upgraded sooner.  Now I can load at 1200-1400 rph. 
     
    You also mentioned you may start loading 223, I recommend upgrading to a 1050 for that also.   

    This is no joke. I have 2 650s that I loaded 9, 40, 45 on. I eventually upgraded to a 1050 and within the first 100 rounds I wondered what took me so long!! The 650s are solid, but if you’re loading 10s of thousands of rounds you will NOT regret going big and getting the 1050. It’s legit. Add a bullet feeder and auto drive and you’re really on fire!!


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  18. I’d definitely be interested in a light weight gun just to check it out. I shot my DVC open for about 10k before adding a cheely steel grip and tungsten GR. I am a big fan of this gun set up heavy. I haven’t weighed it but I’m guessing it’s north of 50oz easily. With this gun I’ve shot mostly 125gr coated lead but prefer the 115 JHP load a little more. It’s got a little more pop but seems more controllable if that makes sense. I would have to guess that a gun weighing 15-20oz less would require a bit more grip pressure to keep tame.

    6b0510d498bcc9f180c50b234850418b.jpg

     

     

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