tcoz
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Posts posted by tcoz
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Clean, predictable, meters exceptionally well. I’ve used a lot of pistol powders through the years and Clean Shot is by far my favorite.
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Unless your case gauge is made to minimum SAAMI spec, a round that passes it won’t necessarily chamber. Buy a Sheridan gauge, JP Enterprises or Lyman Ammo Checker. If your ammo passes any of these, it WILL chamber in your rifle.
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The only 9mm bulletin I use is the RMR 124gr RN. They make their own and the jackets aren’t soft. Very accurate in three handguns and a 9mm carbine.
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The shipper will initiate the claim but with pictures, any insurance payment should be pretty quick. I’ve had to make a claim twice (both times shipped bullets) and received the insurance payment within two weeks.
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Separate and load. If you’re going to wash them you may as well wet tumble.
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Is there such a thing as a target velocity to try and attain with a specific weight bullet in a certain caliber? I’ve never seen target velocities listed in any kind of reference so I usually shoot for the same velocity as a good commercial ammo with the same bullet weight.
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I forget where but I’ve seen some bad reports about them. Enough for me to change my mind about trying them.
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ChuckS, don’t overthink this. I inputted 100 yards as target distance and the Bullseye Camera System calculated MOA from the targets. For all I know the distance could be 95 yards or it could be 105 yards.
The purpose if the post was to illustrate that it isn’t a given that the MagnetoSpred chronograph will affect POI.
As you said, a little thread drift...
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ChuckS, at 100 yards group size (extreme spread) in inches and MOA is the same. At 200 yards group size in MOA is half what it is in inches.
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One topic that always comes up when discussing the MagnetoSpeed is whether it has an effect and if so, how much on POI. Most people don’t use it when they’re shooting groups but I want to share my experience from yesterday. The 100 yard target was shot with the MagnetoSpeed attached and the 200 yard target was without. The only change I made when going to 200 yards was dialing my scope up .4MIL which is exactly what my ballistic table called for after inputting the velocity determined by shooting the 100 yard target.
The rifle is a Ruger Precision .308 and powder charge was 43.5gr of IMR4064 with a base to ogive length of 2.230 (.020 jump).
Obviously these results are for my rifle only and and yours may differ based on barrel harmonics but I wanted to illustrate that while the MagnetoSpeed May affect POI, it doesn’t always do so.
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I really love using my new MagnetoSpeed V3 but I have a minor issue that I’d like some help with. It seems that no matter how much I tighten the strap, the bayonet very slowly migrates forward on my 308 Savage due to the recoil. After about ten shots, the muzzle is no longer over the metal blast shield area and is over the middle of the loop. It isn’t coming loose and doesn’t seem to affect the results but I have to keep moving it back and trying to tighten it more.
Do other users run into this and is there any way to keep it from happening like replacing the strap with another type or maybe adding something to the strap where it comes in contact with the barrel? It isn’t a huge problem but it’s a little frustrating to keep stopping every 5-10 shots to reposition it.
Update- I sent an email to 6.5 Guys and they were good enough to respond same day. They made the suggestion that I use the rubber heat shield that came with the V3 and is normally used with a suppressor and to put it between the strap and the top of the barrel. I haven’t had a chance to try it yet but I’m betting that it will cure the problem.
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Thanks hitman_usmc. So, each time you transfer the data to your computer, all Series will transfer, both the old and the new?
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I recently bought a MagnetoSpeed V3 and I have a question about archiving data. I’m going to use it for the first time to record data for four different loads and then transfer the data to a spreadsheet but I’m a little confused about the “Series” functions and how to transfer the data while continuing to add data for additional loads.
I know that the first shots (first load) will be Series 1. When I finish the shots for that load do I archive the data and then the next set of shots (next load) will automatically be called Series 2, then archive the data for that load and continue to do the same for each load? If so, when it transfers to a spreadsheet, will each Series (load) be shown with its own complete set of data?
Then, when I’m completely finished with that rifle and I’m ready to start gathering data for the next one on a different day, should I reset the series to 1 and start the process over and do I have to transfer the data for all Series (loads) from the first rifle before I reset the Series to 1 otherwise it'll erase the data from Series 1?
I hope my question isn’t too confusing the way I explained it. Maybe it’s best if I just ask how other MagnetoSpeed users do their load workups and data transfer.
I would really appreciate any help that that can be offered. Thanks in advance.
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Here's a picture of the Lee Reloading Stand with my T-7 mounted. It doesn't fold for storage but it's definitely stable.
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Because I reload in our guest bedroom, I've had my Redding T-7 mounted to a Lee Reloading Stand for a number of years. It's under $100, doesn't take up a lot of space and is solid as a rock. If you're willing to drill a few holes in the top plate of the stand you can use the quick change system from Inline Fabrication and be able to change presses or other tools in a matter of minutes.
https://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/mobile/product/98655/redirect
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Resizing Die isn't properly set up.
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If this is the same friend who is having a problem with light charges and if the loose primer doesn't solve both issues, he'd be well advised to re-evaluate his reloading procedures before something more serious happens.
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Based on your barrel I would probably start at .030 and load up and down in a single .010 increment. Whichever yields a group tightening, I would continue in that direction in .005 increments until they spread and stop there. I wouldn't bother going in the other direction.
you may not see a tightening in either direction in which case I would leave it at .030 where you started.
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I've found that the RCBS military crimp remover works best, either attached to my Frankford Armory case prep system or used manually attached to a Lyman handle.
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Add me to the list of H335 fans for .223/5.56
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Always find your powder charge first and then work with the seating depth. You mentioned an OAL gauge so I'm assuming that you already have a bullet comparator since ogive to base is the dimension that you're concerned with, and not tip to base.
Most everything that I've read advises starting at .030-.040 off the lands and working in either or both directions from there in .005-.010 increments.
If your rifle is a Remington, you might not be able to load long enough to get that close to the lands as they have long chambers.
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If you size before cleaning you run a pretty high risk of ruining your sizing die over time by running all of the grit through it.
I clean brass before it ever comes into the house, then size and deprime, inspecting the primer pockets as well as the cases for splits right after this step.
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No doubt the Dillon, Thumblers and other almost $200 tumblers do a great job and will last a long time but I just can't see spending that much for something that has no discernible benefit on my shooting. My FA has been going strong for eight years and I can buy five of them for the same cost. So, lets see......a Dillon might last me forty or more years but I'm 66 years old so do the math.
Seriously though, I've never noticed a speck of dust anywhere around my machine. I put six quarters of used dryer sheets in each batch but even the few times I didn't, there wasn't a dust issue so I'm wondering why so many people who wet tumble say one the biggest reasons they do it is because of the dust produced by dry tumbling. Clean primer pockets is the only real benefit I can see to the wet method but I don't want to mess with the rinsing, draining and separating, I don't want to be sticking a few hundred cases in the oven a couple times a week and I surely don't have the room to spread them out to dry for two or three days. I'm more than satisfied with how mine look when they come out.
Sorry, I don't mean to start a wet vs dry discussion but I just couldn't help myself.
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I had never heard of them until reading about some people on another forum complaining of light primer strikes using them. I can't remember which forum as it was a month or so ago. Nothing major, just a few of them but it was always the same complaint of light strikes then they would fire on the second or third attempt indicating they may not have been fully seated.
Looking for a case gauge to check loaded rounds?
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
There seems to be a lot of general confusion about case gauges. I’m constantly reading posts from people asking for help because their loaded rounds passed the gauge test but wouldn’t chamber in their rifle. As was stated above, the JP and Sheridan gauges are the only ones I’m familiar with that are made with chamber readers to minimum SAAMI spec. If your rounds pass either of these gauges, they WILL chamber in your rifle. Atlasguy321 mentioned the Lyman gauge (ammo checker?) which I’ve been curious about. It might be like the JP and Sheridan but up until now I haven’t seen reports from anybody who has actually used it.