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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

johnbu

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Everything posted by johnbu

  1. That looks like material transfer TO THE GUN from the kydex.
  2. Search here for a steo by step diy trigger job. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=193360&page=1 Polish, polish, polish. You will need a dremel or similar to help w that. Change the plunger spring to "click pen" spring. Get the Henning hammer spring kit (I use the 13#) and his extended firing pin. The click pen spring us free, the other stuff is quite reasonable. So for little $ and a few hours of your labir, the trigger will astound you.
  3. In the past year, I've loaded 2 1/2 pounds of it in .40 with 180gr coated bullets, 4.6gr at a time. 840-850 fps. It's the only pistol powder I was lucky enough to find, so concidering beggers and choosers, it's been decent. Just a bit dirty, but fine for steel challenge and practice.
  4. Seems like the supply goes up and prices are good, supply dries up and a few try to fund trips to Fiji! I hope the bring in a steady stream.
  5. Jmb, I just put the henning sights on my match. The front has a fiber optic, so it STANDS OUT compared to the factory. Plus the post is narrower. The rear is moved back 1/4" (guess) so the sight radius is longer, and the gap is narrower. Only ran 2 mags since the swap (to verify trigger conversion to da/sa works), but it's easier to keep focus on the front. And being in that bifocal wearing 50+ group, things that make seeing the sight easier are appreciated! It is a bit of a chore to get it in, but it shouldn't wiggle out.
  6. The parts from Henning came in today. Pretty quick. Thanks. I followed the delivery schedule, so had it apart and spent time polishing bits up better and putting in a click bic spring while waiting for the post. The firing pin channel was pretty nasty and from reading the linked post above, there were spots I missed. Then put in the new parts, 13lb spring, Henning firing pin and henning FO sight set. Wheee, DA is now much nicer. Smooth and manageably light. SA is not a lot different than SA only, a little worse but not much, probably due to the extra polishing. Wish I had a trigger scale, but it feels nice. Checked that it fired by loading primered empty cases. It chambered them from the mag (only one in the mag at a time) and popped 8 primers in DA mode. Hardest issue was installing the new sights. Tight. Anyways, just wanted to update and give a thanks
  7. I hear you with my ears and brain, but the gut is still holding some reservations! I just have to work through it. On holsters, is blade tech speed rig a decent one to get?
  8. Ok, thanks. Just finished reading that whole thread. Whew! Good stuff. I'll have to do a bit more polishing when the henning hammer springs come. Especially on the disco.
  9. Yes, guns with safety have them on and the trigger finger is indexed until sights are on target, etc. I just have a phobia to work through having a childhood buddy's dad shoot himself in the calf drawing from the holster. Those 40 year old memories seem to lock me up and make that first shot very ... deliberate. This is my attempt to "get over it". But enough of my quirks! Ok, I follow the springs are the important part as I initally suspected, prior to over analyzing. Today I polished the spare plunger and put a weaker spring on, but didn't install. Could you teach a guy what you mean about the DA breaking on the disco and trigger bar? Heck, I cannot even find the disconnecter on the parts diagram. Thanks!
  10. OK, here's the deal. I bought a new .40sw witness match last year. Took it apart, following instructions here, polished up plunger, trigger bar, firing pin and slightly chamfered the firing pin keeper to make racking smoother. All was done just to make it a more enjoyable range toy. Then a buddy invited me to a local steel challenge. I tried an xdm-40, but it's just nowhere near as easy / fun as the match. So, I used that and while it's easier to time me by phases of the moon, it has been a lot of fun. So, what's the issue? Well, I'm uncomfortable speed drawing from the holster in SA. Yeah, I know... Anyway, ebay provided a kit of parts from a 9mm witness P - trigger on the bar, sear assembly, misc pins/springs and a hammer w interrupter and long curved strut. After scratching my head over that, gunbroker had an auction for a kit of new parts bought from Henning to convert a hunter to DA. Not "needing" them I bid and got them fot the oppening bid of $0.01. Finally, to the point. I put the new trigger onto the ebay bar, keeping the original SA assembly intact. Then used the new std hammer and interruptr with the match short strut and factory spring. The new parts were polished prior to installation. Well, the SA trigger is still pretty good, but not as good as before. But the DA is ... not good. Heavy and gets heavier stacking at the end. Yuck. Oddly, inspecting the "P sear assembly to the match showed differences, so they were swapped - yielding a slight improvement. But still sucky. Holding the trigger back, the hammer can be cycled without binding, but that spring is stout. I ordered a hammer spring kit from Henning, along with his firing pin and sight set thinking that will make it all better. But, I keep reading about improvement from changing hammer and sear. So... what amount of improvement is gained from hammer and sear? Is the bulk gain from the hammer spring? Or changes in geometry in the sear and hammer? Is changing to lower power trigger return and sear springs worth the effort? Sorry for the rambling! John
  11. I heard around the gun counter that poly rifling is lower friction than standard, so you get higher velocity. No idea at all if that was real or real BS!
  12. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/450531/hornady-sst-ml-muzzleloading-bullets-45-caliber-sabot-with-40-caliber-200-grain-super-shock-tip-sst-box-of-20
  13. Are the mag springs getting weak?
  14. Mag release wasn't bad, the sear wasn't even bad, but the trigger.... whew. But I am "blessed" with fat fumbling fingers and old eyes, so getting it to line up and get the pin in was a chore. But.... The smoothing, polishing to slick up the trigger was worth the effort and grief. and I'm sure next time would be easier knowing what to do. Great guns.
  15. Well I'll wait until I get the pistol to decide. But that money could be spent on something else. Like a trigger job. Tanfo triggers can be very much improved (lighter and smoother) with polishing and spring changes. No $, just some time. At least my match responded that way using the advice posted here.
  16. That's a very good point. I often tell new shooters to wear both plugs AND muffs. Flinching and spastic trigger action is greatly reduced nearly instantly
  17. You can shoot 200gr in .40 and a few shoot 220gr at major power.
  18. 25 bucks a pound sounds about right these days? I keep thinking if I whine enough prices will drop...
  19. Relatively proud of it aren't they?
  20. If you dry fire frequently, the roll pin that holds the striker is good to get. Replaced the factory pin at about 10,000 dry fires with the stronger one. But! The factory pin was fine. After taking it out, put the stronger one in mostly because it was there. My opinion is the factory (and maybe some owners) pound the pins in too far / too hard. That causes them to bend then break. The pins are only held at top and bottom, so the middle can bend if enough force is applied. Also, they MUST go in and out the hole on top of the slide. MUST. The opening in the bottom of the slide is smaller to keep it out. If you can do it, polish the striker body, striker and sear interface where they meet, striker channel in the slide and any of the other parts in the trigger system that show wear. Great care is needed to avoid altering sear geometry, so if you are heavy handed a smith may be the better choice. Trigger "feel" is dramatically improved with a polish. It is shockingly better, at least mine was. All the gritty feel and jerky movement was gone. Not sure how it affects pull weight, but it just glides now.
  21. Two components of recoil. One is the "equal and opposite" force where bullet weight and speed determines the recoil. The other is from the jet of hot high speed gasses from the burning powder. Fast powders give gasses that are cooling and slowing before the bullet leaves the barrel. Slow powders are still burning as the bullet leaves the barrel and are very energetic. In fact the recoil just from the gas in slow powders is as large or larger than the recoil from accelerating the bullet. Run a super fast powder major load and a slow powder major load at the same power factor and the difference is just due to the gas jet.
  22. I have a Lee single stage and a lee loadmaster. In 4800 reloads, there were 2 primers that were goofed by the system. The turret set screw loosened up. Other primer issues have been (ahem) operator induced. Typically running out of primers because it's so much fun making ammo. Worst annoying problem is finding a 9mm in a .40 case and it hangs the case feeding. Pita! It's not a fine tool, it came with carp instructions (thank goodness for youtube), overall lengths do bounce 5-8 thousanths, it takes some fiddly diddlie to keep it tuned. But it will typically make my runs of 500 without issue, provided I do a preflight check of 2-3 minutes. $225 bucks and ready to run. For my needs and at my skill level, it's really all I need. So, yes I am happy with it. Now, if somebody gives me a dillon 650...
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