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Robertcsd

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Everything posted by Robertcsd

  1. ClangClang, I really like the training outline you provided. I have tried similar methods when training with my friend who is a GM. I noticed I could not duplicate any of his skills when moving - I was just slower while trying for A's. Also, he could not point out what the difference was between us. He just said - "you need to practice more." So, later that night I studied the videos we took and noticed he was very smooth when moving. While braking down the movements, I noticed he was better aligned to the target. During dry fire practice, if I matched my hips and shoulders alignment while moving I could be smooth, faster. I took that idea to live fire practicing and noticed I was faster and accurate during my runs. It's a lot more foot work but it works for me. I am C shooter in USPSA so I need to work on things really hard to get them in my head. I was always told to stay square to the target and I just thought it was to keep my upper body or my shoulders aligned with the target, but now I am rethinking this. Square to the target means hips and shoulders square to the target or just shoulders? Thanks Robert
  2. I just picked up a new MGM spinner and was thinking of the thread while putting it together. As a Quality Manager, we always need to come up with ways to make things repeatable and measurable at the same time for manufacturing proposes. So, seeing this is the a new spinner, the "8″ and 10″ MGM Hex HEXALLOY 550 target plates" to be exact, I thought it would be a good reference point. When I put it together I noticed it was not adjustable in length, just the ability to align the arms and make them straight with each other. I leveled the targets and added weight to the center of the smaller target until the arms stayed level on there own. Total weight was 3 lbs. to the small target to balance the spinner. Also, the length from the center of each target is 40 1/2". Both arms were not equal distance, but that really is relevant considering the distance they were off. This may be a simple and effective way to measure 1 spinner to another. 1. Type make and model of your spinner. 2. Measure the size of plates. (This parameter gives a indication of the mass that must be moved.) 3. Measure the distance the plates are away from the center of each target to the other. (This gives the leverage arm from the center of rotation.) 4. Add weight in lbs./oz. to balance. (Difference in weight.) If its the MGM Hex spinner than all you need is the 3 lbs. weight to balance. I would like to know (I'm sure others would too) what you guys come up with.
  3. Check out Fast & Friendly brass website then Tips and Tricks. They talk about the reasons too. The swage process changes heights of the ram when the press is fully closed due to swaging needs. When trimming I encounter height variations when swaging too. Heck, I still have a hard time maintaining consistent trim heights just running the trim die by itself. I may need to try another cutter on the Dillon trimmer - not sure. On the 650 I would bump the cutter twice and it worked well. The 1050 has the Mark 7 auto-drive and it just goes up and down one time - as you know. I just have to mess with it more to get it right. I run batches of 1K at a time so it takes a while to use it up before I try it again.
  4. Even with a 1050 you will still need to preprocess you brass before reloading. 1st size and swage only, then 2nd use the Dillon trim die and 3rd load your cass. I use 2 tool heads, actually 1 extra that can be switched between different calibers and a dedicated one for reloading 223. The dedicated one has a Lee decapping die in place of the sizing die and the backer die removed. (used only when swaging) and replaced with the M die. 1st run - the empty tool head gets the de-capping die and backer die for swaging. 2nd run - Just the trimmer die and back off the swager. (need un-sized cases for the trimmer die to hold cases) 3rd run - Sizing die and put Lyman "M" die in place of backer die with swage rod backed off, set primers, powder charge, place bullet, seat bullet and finally crimp case. With the 650 you can do the same thing at a much lower cost with a super swage 600 to swage the case. I have both machines but my 1050 has the Mark7 auto drive and Mr Bullet feeder to help out. I really like the 650 - the 1050 is a brute of a machine.
  5. I'm sure it has to do with the side pressure the spring puts on the tube. I had one of my cords close to the bullet path spring and as I was loading in more bullets I moved the cord a little and it was touching the bullet path spring. Bullets started to drop by them selves. Moved the cord out of the way and they started feeding one at a time. I do like the spring idea though. Looks like a positive fix.
  6. I had this same problem (on a 650) and when I changed the angle it stopped. Just move the angle steeper on the collator until it stops. I started with plated 9mm 147gr RN bullets and when I tried the lighter 115 coated RN it started again. Moved the collator to a steeper angle and it stopped. The lighter bullets were a little more finicky to get them to feed, but when I was done I tried the 147gr again and they ran too. The instructions say a little about the preferred angle but I just went with what the bullets liked. Needles to say I am very happy with the MBF and wish I did the upgrade sooner.
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