KelsonAK
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Posts posted by KelsonAK
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You could have the barrel set back and the chamber recut - about the only way to get to a shorter throat short of a new tube. That said - it may not improve your performance.
Rem barrels in Rem stocks with Rem triggers are a nice stacking of tolerances to give you what you are seeing. I did what you are doing - put an SPS-V into an AICS stock with a nice trigger - and it worked pretty well. I used 155s with a healthy jump (Lapua and Nosler CC) but it really preferred the 185gr Berger VLD in a single shot configuration. Plenty of bullet in the case and it liked a .020 jump the best. Even so - it took 10-15 rounds to 'settle' the barrel after cleaning and I would occasionally have some weird POI shifts and the odd flier in to the 7 or 8 ring (F T/R) Some of those might have been me
I dumped it in favor of a 30" Krieger 1-10 heavy palma with a Palma 95 chamber + some extra throat to give me the case capacity to shoot the 208gr Amax or the 185gr Berger VLD. Mortar like? The 185 is humming along at 2850ish fps using MR2000 for a 1.1 mil drop at 300 and about 3.5ish at 600. 208 loads have been between 2400fps and 2700ish fps - not a bad deal - with the faster loads being within .1 or .2 mil of the 185s at 300 and 600. Google Montana Marine and 208 Amax for info RL 17 and the heavy bullets in .308
Regardless - with the Krieger barrel I have done away with the weird POI shifts and now the fliers seem to be greatly reduced - in other words, they seem to be my fault, not the rifle.
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The Honey Badger case trimmer - it don't care.
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in addition to the wisdom on the extractor... and the measure your headspace before/after for the loaded round...
For giggles, sharpie the ogive of the bullet, chamber, extract and look for rifling marks. sometimes with a hard jam that makes extraction of a loaded round difficult the bullet may actually pull from the case and spill powder everywhere - not a fun thing. Heck you could even do a 'plunk' test with a loaded round to see if it goes. 'possible' that you may need small base dies, but doesn't sound like it from the description - same with trim length - possible but not probable from what you described. let us know.
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8208XBR is great under a 55, and I'm having excellent results with AR-Comp - although it is a little slow for a 55 grain bullet in general. Benchmark and 2230 are excellent choices. I recently ran through 4 lbs of 8208XBR - when it shows up again I will buy more.
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You could do pretty much the same thing with a separate body die. Doing it with a honed FL die means that you have more complete contact with the brass at the neck/shoulder junction. Key take aways from that technique AND the body die method is to properly bump the shoulder and not use an expander ball. For my AR loads in 3 gun, I don't notice any advantage to it so I don't use it - for my F T/R loadings I do, although it is minimal compared to my ability or lack of ability to read wind changes at 600 yards and out...
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Ok, so I'll admit to having thought in passing about using a sling for the tacticool factor
, but after this past weekend match and watching someone else get a DQ I'm a bit down on the idea. The sling really limited the mobility of the gun for reloading and there was a 180 because of it. Are there any matches that require the use of a sling on a shotgun? Other than just helping haul it around, is there any practical use for a sling on a shotgun in 3gun - cuz I'm not coming up with one. -
Lee Die, Hornady die and RCBS small base die have all produced similar results for me in .223/5.56 - not so in .308/7.62. My 7.62 experience was the small base die did a bit more sizing in the body than the Hornady, RCBS or Lee dies I used at the time. In all fairness - in my rifle (a FAL) it didn't seem to matter - the ammo sized with the Hornady or Lee dies got gobbled up just as well as the SB sized stuff.
Other side of the issue - is there a difference in accuracy from using small base dies? Again, in my experience not really. I've used small base dies to size cases for bolt guns and precision stuff as well and at least for me, no appreciable difference in accuracy resulted. So other than possible shorter brass life due to 'overworking' - I haven't seen any negative to using a small base die set up correctly in the press.
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I do things early in the morning, at lunch, between loads of laundry - whenever I can get 5-10 minutes. In the course of a day, I may get a grand total of 20-30 minutes in. That translates into a couple hours a week - and that stacks up pretty fast actually. Short bits of time make organization a bit more important, especially if you are stuck with a single stage. I've only recently started back into reloading a lot of pistol ammo. It seems every time I have the cash to buy a progressive I wind up spending that cash on primers, powder or bullets, magazines.... and not having a progressive means that I am forced to do more dry fire - never a bad thing.
However - this year for my birthday I'm getting one.I have a bunch of pretzel containers with lids that I sharpie 'staging' information on to keep track of where in the process the brass or round is at, and duct tape for MTM cases to do the same for some types of loading. I use Hornady L'n'L bushings for fast die changes and always use the same case holder to simplify setup - especially with rifle rounds. My staging for pistol is usually 'raw', sized, expanded, primed, seated, crimped. For rifle rounds in 'bulk' staging is raw, lubed, sized, trimmed, cleaned, primed, seated, crimped. For F-T/R it can get a little silly...so the MTM cases with duct tape is how I keep things organized.
Separate die sets for separate rifles. Set it up for THAT rifle and leave it alone. Resetting the head spacing on a rifle die is a PITA and takes a bit of time - once it's set, leave it. Mark it too - so if something gets knocked around you can visually check your set up. I've taken to doing the same thing with seaters/crimpers with pistol rounds also - set it up for a bullet/pistol combo and leave it. Used dies can usually be found cheap.
For rifle, don't cheap out on the case lube application. The time it takes to properly lube a 500 cases is less than the time it takes to pull one case stuck in the die. Don't ask me how I know. Huge time saver there. I lube a couple thousand .223 cases at a time - usually while watching TV. I also prime cases in 'bulk' and often while spending TV time with the wife.
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Shooting groups for testing, load development, etc - I use 1" circles or squares on graph paper (usually 1/4" squares) at 100. For 200 if it is a low powered scope I'll go to a 2" target, 300 3". For my F class stuff I'll use 1" targets for all 3 distances. I'll put 4 to 6 targets on an 8.5x11 and staple the mess to a backer. I have a PDF of the target that I print out - no messing with actual graph paper...
For circles, I have taken to putting the target circle in the 'corner' of the cross hairs rather than try to center on the circle - more and more doing that with squares as well. Using the graph squares makes it fairly easy to eyeball for OCW testing purposes, and doing your test firing at 100, 200 and 300 without doing the whole clickie clickie thing gives you great and easy feedback on the real ballistics of your load.
For shooting groups for practice purposes, I use F-class target centers - reduced appropriately for the range I'm shooting. Again - just print 'em out from a PDF. If I'm not shooting 'groups' I will just use some optic orange duct tape to make an aiming point.
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Are there any good pictures of the throating required to address the 'benelli jam'? I'm having occasional jams with the M3000 where the shell catches on the relief cut for the extractor and fails to feed. Winchester cheapies seem to be the biggest offender. Worst case is a slight cut into the plastic of the hull. Will pick up a couple other manufacturers shells and see if the problem follows the shells or follows the gun.
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If you already have it built - run with it. If you 'wait till it's right' before you show up at a match you may never get to play... damn bastards keep coming out with new gear all the time that is better/cooler/go faster than what I have now.
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Since it's hijacked...
I like the EGW or Dillon sizer, the Lyman expander, about anybody's seater (no opinion yet...), and the Lee crimper. Love me a gun show or garage sale where there are dies for sale...
And like the OP - I've been having visions of a KKM barrel in my .40, but have decided to spend the money on bullets, powder, and primers instead. For me, the attraction of the 'magic wand' to improve my skills is strong, but the reality of the need to practice is really where it's at. When I shoot better than my barrel... until then I will spend my cash on the basic tool - me.
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no kidding on the throws - that stuff is fluffy as hell, and I need to strap a vibrator to the powder hopper or be extra careful with my loader technique - I was seeing up to a 2 grain difference in load (occasional light by 2) as I was setting up with 700x. Shoots well, but harder for me to work with than I'd like in the loading.
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Costco carries a brand made from Alaska salmon. Of course I recommend that.
In addition to fish oil, Glucosamine, minimizing gluten/grain/carbs, targeted exercise, yoga, the right shoes, and foam roller therapy - an occasional visit to a good massage therapist works wonders.
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interesting comment about the finger placement on the M&P. I found myself doing that as well. Weak hand had the index finger high - on the trigger guard. Am changing to a lower weak hand index finger (under the guard) and that actually seems to shift my strong hand slightly so that the pad of the finger is on the trigger. Better control of recoil, better trigger control, less 'low left for a rightie' shots - what's not to like?
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A 20 MOA mount won't cause you any 'issues' at 1x as far as parallax or 'target orientation,' but as said before won't give you any benefit for 3 gun stuff. Usually use a +20 when you are trying to ensure you have enough 'up' to get out a long, long way.
I use a +20 on my F T/R rifles so that my cross hairs are closer to the middle of the adjustment range at 500 and I have plenty of up left over to get me out further as needed with the whole twisty clickie thing. Different game - different speeds - different needs.
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Pat, if you play hide the target in Seward I'm going to take your big wheel and chuck it in the harbor...
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The difference between 'rushing' and 'going fast' - in music it is synchronization.
You can go fast in music - the tempo may call for it. But the entire group, the piece of music, the conductor - it all goes fast together.
You can accelerate in music - but again the entire group accelerates.
Rushing is an individual aspect or component out of sync with the entire group or system. You don't go faster by rushing, you go faster by going faster.
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I'm wondering how this fell to page 2? Sheesh.... go out and shoot these things!
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If you are in a pinch, you can do the same thing with a pistol case of appropriate size. Use an appropriately sized rifle case (or one fired from your rifle to figure out shoulder bump when setting up your dies) and zero your calipers on a pistol case that will rest on the shoulder of your case. Zero and compare to the 'question' case. Fast, easy, cheap.
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A long barrel really does three things; Adds weight, gives additional velocity and gives you the option of a longer sight radius. For 300 yards and in on a .223, the extra velocity isn't THAT much of a big deal. The longer sight radius can be a big deal - unless you are using a dot or other optics. The weight issue... for service rifle that can be a good thing. For 3 gun, not so sure it's a good thing. My next build will probably be on a shorter and lighter tube than I have on now - with a faster twist
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A little late to the thread, but my input...
Worth it? It depends on the game you are playing. For 3-gun 'cone of fire' stuff - not that worthwhile. For F T/R where your vertical spread at 1000 needs to be uber minimized - can be very worthwhile. Just like neck turning, primer pocket uniforming, and other labor intensive stuff that 'can' have an effect on velocity spread. I anneal my brass for F class - I take a bit of time to prep it, I don't drop it on the ground or loose it usually - and hitting it with a torch is a small part of the overall process to get the brass into the proper condition. It makes for repeatable neck tension (every time kind of thing) but overall it isn't as important as the jerk that jerks the trigger and their wind skills. Kinda like bullet pointing.... and weight sorting brass.... and bullet sorting... and chicken blood at the full moon.
For 3 gun I don't bother - I cut a lot of steps out of my brass prep for 3 gun. I figure some bastard is going to pick my brass up off the ground and use it against me next match so I may as well put him at a disadvantage... oh, that bastard is probably me. Reliability first for 3 gun - repeatability over all for F T/R.
It does make your brass look cool and impresses the chicks, going all Lapua 'n chit.
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Admitted total newbie here. I've been shooting a 1911 for a while, but only started in comps this spring. First time out with my M&P in 3 gun was a disaster - dead last. I had to get my 1911 from the truck after just to make sure I could still hit anything...
What has helped me more than anything is closing my eyes and slowing down. Close them, draw, open and check for index - correct as required and repeat. Not worried about fast - just concentrate on smooth and repeatable. Hands right on the grip, sight picture where it needs to be. It's like music - the body learns to join multiple actions into a single one, and you need to have the multiple actions (each discrete component) 'learned.' I even broke it down into just getting my hand on the gun in the holster - same way, each time. I find that works best when you get rid of everything except the discreet component you are focusing the brain on. I was a pro musician for about 10 years, so I'm approaching it the same way as any piece of music. Going to be more practice for me
I didn't find the trigger pull difference all that difficult to work with - maybe I'm not that sophisticated in the finger. I did the same thing with reload drills - slow practice - break down the components - pull mag (index finger) - present - move pistol to where the mag will present - etc. Still have a ways to go but I'm so green I'm seeing improvements daily.... This past weekend I hit something and moved from last to 4th in tac optics in the local match - thanks to pistol handling. It sure wasn't my shotgun loading....
Next up for me? close up rifle on the move... -
Slugs for my testing started with 8 in the tube, 1 in the chamber - have a +6 and a 26" barrel. Didn't do that on purpose for testing function with the inertia gun thing in mind, was more along the lines of 'if this were a match' kind of thing. With the Rem reduced recoil it was the first one or two that had a challenge.
New to 3 gun - how to improve my game plan for stages
in Miscellaneous BEginners
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Skipping targets? Never happens...
I'm not a super squad shooter, but one thing I've picked up... if you have to get there - get there.