BOOM
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Everything posted by BOOM
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1st) Strike eagle 1-6 , 2nd) CCOP 1-6, 3rd) Primary Arms 1-6 They all look the same, and all made in China
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Straight from Vortex; Strike fire is Made in China.. Release date was Spring, NOW set for LATE Summer.. Bad part is there are 2 other scopes already out that LOOK exactly like the Vortex This scope maybe a wait and see Burris 1-4 is looking better all the time
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Vlad; Thats what friends, and Neighbors are for. Barrow one
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sounds GREAT
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Give the guy with the used M2 phone number. I'll help you decide M
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A true 1 X Red Dot sight by far the fasts No parallax with both eyes open . Having to line up the rear sight with the front will take time off the clock. In my mind a fiber optic front post with a simpler rear would be faster.
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Flatlander; The XS sights was a great Idea as a fast sight picture, But they have a draw back having a very low profile making them awkward in having to lift and rotate the rifle to obtain a proper sight alignment vs just rotating the rifle back and forth Is what I've read Cyclic Rate; Trying to place the front sight post some where in the center of the aperture during a course of fire always seems to taking to much time always trying to hard for good sight picture, and thought something more like a wide notched rear handgun sight for those up close almost point and shoot targets. Thats where the idea of turning the aperture into a notch started making sense, something quick and simple that our brain is already use to seeing.
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Been thinking about adding 45deg. offset sights, BUT How is trying to looking through a A2 rear sight going to help your time on up close targets. Thought of trying to reshaping the rear to a horse shoe , and painting the front post neon red. What do you think YEA or NA
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I totally want one: Just trying to find a adjustable gas block that will fit under it. Been trying to contact (BTE) there NOT responding back
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ZEV V4 and lots of polishing; Factory Glock triggers Break like a old Carrot
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Your kidding with all the shooter out there. So its spend your money and hope. Maybe we should start a SAAMI standard for handguard vs. gas blocks clearance
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I'd also like some HELP ;is there a certain amount of clearance that would be consider minimum, or optimum ; for instance a handguard with a overall of 1.63 and over the bore of .90 Using a gas block that is 1.40 overall and over the bore of .775 . Would this be considered to tight ?? As Dewbery mention just squeezing .
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Bear with me Last couple of questions There's been some discussion here on some hand guard Barrel nuts either (NOT) locking down the barrel enough,or concentric to the receiver affecting accuracy. Have any of you had any problems with either ALG installation wrench, or shim system NOT torquing down the barrel enough or correctly, or notice a drop in accuracy after you installed your hand guard. Thanks Again
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Just looked over at ALG web site, and they have a schematic with all Dimension. In there schematic is a gas block that looks to be a set screw style. I'd like to use a clamp on style Is there enough room for a clamp on gas block to fit under the tube, or to tight
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Thanks Everyone for your insight with ALG, and the right gas block that will fit under the tube. Watch out Tony you my be heavily armed but; kermit got a gun.
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Thanks Pacman like the icon; Called ALG to ask a few questions and they also recommended the 15" M-Loc. Like to ask you about the aluminum barrel nut. Does the handguard feel like its loosing up from the heat or feel hot seeing its right over the chamber
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Yep; sold out. Ill try giving them a call: Overall has the BTE worked out for you, any cons
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Funny you would bring up BTE low profile gas block . Went looking for one today online because of there price, wasn't able to find one . Would you know where I might find one
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Apertrulis 01; What model and length did you end up buying , also like to ask what adjustable gas block you used for clearance.
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Wonder what the opinion would be on a ALG handguard the selling price is pretty good at $150.00 for a 15" comes with a massive barrel nut using 6 mounting screws to attach the tube looks very sturdy .Been thinking about maybe getting one, but just not seeing any 3 gun shooters using them. Would you buy one? or is there better choices
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LOTS and Lots of money. Yea, In reality just add 30% more to your budget when its all said a done LOL
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Nebwake for me its worked. There are others, CLP is what now use for all my internal parts its rated high as a good light lube, and rust inhibitor. In the barrel NO tefflons(FP 10) I'm no chemist there are lots of gun oil reviews online Hope it helps.
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Could be the brand of lube your using?Try wiping down your gun heavy with a good oil that inhibits rust (EEZOX) let it soak over night so it can penetrate, wipe off the excess the next day . Long ago had trouble with certain brand (Tetra) grease rust started forming on a few internal parts within a month. Not sure why, but it went straight in the trash.
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WhoWee; That's got a lot of Cool factor
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If the barrel nut is that critical to keeping the handguard from flexing. What manufactures put that into there handguards. JP, Geissele, Barnes, Carbon Arms. Who else ??