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TacticalReload

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Posts posted by TacticalReload

  1. My advice is to shoot the best you can without regards to how other people in your class/division shot. As long as you know you performed up to snuff, it won't bother you nearly as much when you see the scores of all the sandbaggers that ripped through the stages... major matches seem to attract them like crazy. :roflol:

  2. I had a chance to mess around with this setup on a Glock that someone brought to the range a couple of days ago. I'm not sure why it would be any better than standard sights, to be honest. That being said, it didn't seem substantially worse. If you're holding the gun on target, the picture presents itself as looking pretty much like a regular notch-post setup.

  3. Don't know that this will help, but my XDM .40 (4.75") using Precision 185's loading 2.9gr of Clays at 1.130 gives me a PF of 145 and the load runs the stock 18lb spring.

    Yeesh... then something must be wrong... maybe I have to check to see if it's metering properly.

  4. I've been spending time shooting revolvers lately but I figured I would bust out the Glock 35 for some shooting. However, since I haven't been shooting it, I didn't have any ammo handing so I got to loading. Unfortunately, I can't find my data from the last time I worked up a load for it so I had to start from scratch. It's sprung with a 13# spring with a few coils clipped... the spring has probably seen around 5k rounds since new and I have a replacement waiting for installation, but seeing as it was running 100% reliably so far I wanted to get the ammo recipe right before tinkering with the spring in order to avoid confusion if I run into problems.

    So I'm fairly sure that I was previously running 180 or 200 gr Berry's... I think they both worked well, but I wanted to save my meager supply of 200's for major loads in my G24. So I loaded up 180gr. Berry's on top of 2.8gr of Clays in mixed brass with Federal primers at an OAL of 1.130". I don't know why I was thinking that 2.8gr was my previous load, but I ran into about 10 jams in 150 rounds. I'm guessing it's just a lack of oomph that is causing the problems since the slide doesn't look like it's catching the back of the case to feed the round... probably not cycling all the way back. The mag springs feel pretty good so I don't think that's the problem.

    So here are my questions:

    (1) Has anyone successfully used 180gr bullets with 2.8gr of Clays in a Glock? Maybe I was using 2.8gr with 200gr bullets and I should instead be using 3.0-3.2gr with the 180's?

    (2) Can someone school me on OAL? What effect does OAL have on velocities? I figured that the shorter the OAL, the higher the pressure... but I see a lot of people here talking about loading long, even with minor loads... what is the benefit of doing this?

    (3) What is likely to happen if I put an 11# spring in the gun with these same loads?

    Thanks in advance!!!

  5. It's not that you can't find them... it's that selection of slides, guide rods, etc. is much worse; and that finding cheap used parts is very difficult.

    I have no need for additional slides for my G4 pistols, have no trouble finding parts and do not use cheap used parts.

    Well, then I guess I'm just wrong since if you don't want another slide or use used parts, no one else does either.

  6. Also don't forget that aftermarket parts availability is not nearly as good with the gen4. Finding used parts is even harder.

    What after market parts do you have trouble finding for a G4 Glock?

    It's not that you can't find them... it's that selection of slides, guide rods, etc. is much worse; and that finding cheap used parts is very difficult.

  7. I would use a 19. Shorter barrel so more gas pressure to work the comp. Less recoiling mass.

    Fixed mount red dot, because the slide mounted dots always add to muzzle flip in my opinion and the dot does not track as well.

    Big brass magwell, because weight really does help when it's not recoiling.

    Tubgsten guide rod.

    Any good barrel with a 9/16 thread so the major SJC comp will fit. I haven't tried that comp, but every other Glock style comp I tried was garbage.

    If price is no object. new unfit lightened slide and steel CCF raceframe. Now you'd be talking a potentially competitive Glock open gun.

    Personally, I think the 19's grip is too short. How hard would it to be to safely and consistently make major in a 4" barrel with 9mm?

    Have you tried the Carver comps? Just wondering if you also don't think much of them.

    I've thought about the CCF steel frame, but between hearing bad things about them along with warnings about using their frames with aftermarket barrels, I've given up on it.

  8. Duh... fixed it. Dunno how that extra letter got in there. :wacko:

    I originally thought that no one noticed because of the SHOT show, but it's been down for a while now. I was going to order some springs, but I ended up just getting them through Brownells instead.

  9. I am with Micah on this. I have a Jager and with major loads which it was intended it is very good for the price.

    Any reason why the Jager comps don't have side ports? Does that matter?

  10. Thanks to everyone for the replies so far. I guess my hesitation was that I know I'm already making a big compromise by not going with a 2011 (or at least most 2011 people would say so!)... I didn't want to make too many other compromises to the point where I'm left with a marginally acceptable gun. However, it looks like others are happy with their choices.

    So how flat do these setups shoot? I'm thinking 135gr would be the way to go in .40... does that dot move all over the place?

  11. So I've been searching the forums and reading all the threads and I keep getting conflicting information on Glock comps. Some people say that Jager comps don't work and others say they are great. Some people are saying that KKM comps don't compare well to SJC... others are happy with them. Some people say that SJC comps won't run 9minor whereas their website says they will. I'm confused. The only thing that everyone seems to agree on is that Lone Wolf comps are poor.

    So basically, if you were to rank SJC, KKM, Jager, and whoever else makes comps for Glocks, what order would you put them in?

    As much as I'd like to just dump a lot of money into a 2011, I can't see doing it right now. Plus I use a Glock 35 for IDPA / production and a 24 for limited so I'm used to the platform and have the equipment already. Plus who knows if I'll even like open... so I'm trying to do this on the cheap. Ideally, I guess I could either buy a top-end to drop onto my 24's frame and go from there. Or better yet, I could build off the 35's slide, not have to buy another, and still have the option of going back to production... that means no slide mounted dot, though. It also means that I'd be going with .40 over 9. I reload so ammo selection isn't a problem... I just want a gun that shoots flat and makes major.

    I know that there are plenty of previous threads touching on this same thing... apparently there are lots of folks who have tried to do what I'm trying to do. I apologize for the redundancy. For those who have already tried to do this same thing, any advice that you could give me would be appreciated... even if it's to just scrap the whole idea and keep shooting limited. <_<

  12. I have lead levels checked at least once a year. I have always checked out OK.

    I reload and shhot quite a bit as most here do. However, I avoid indoor ranges at all costs. I also wash my hands regularly and thoroughly when I finish a reloading session.

    I had a big bottle of lotion sold at one time in the medical field that was supposed to put a barrier on your hands against chemical absorbsion. Ran out a while back. Wish I could find it again.

    I also wear vinyl gloves when cleaning guns and when I handle tumbling media.

    That's actually in interesting point. How much lead is actually absorbed through your skin vs inhaled vs ingested? I have to figure that swallowing lead is probably the biggest culprit followed by breathing it in, or vice versa. I can't imagine *that* much lead gets into your body through your skin, but I'm not a doctor and am just talking out my ass. ;)

  13. So I noticed that Glock has started releasing a new factory 22 round mag in .40. Has anyone tried using these mags with one of the various mag extensions? If so, are they reliable? How many rounds can you get into them? Are they the correct length to be in Open? (that last question is probably the most important)

    The factory Glock 22 rnd mags are already close to the 170mm limit. You can't get an extended basepad on them and still be legal.

    Best bet for .40 Glock Open is to use 15 rnd mags with a Dawson or Taylor Freelance basepad, which should give you about 20 rnds.

    For a big-stick mag, use a 15 rnd mag with a Taylor Freelance +8 extension. You can actually get +9 in them, for a total of 24 rnds.

    My Limited mags are the 15 rounders plus Dawson extensions. I haven't handled a 22 rounder... I was hoping swapping the Dawsons onto them would make an easy / cheap fix to getting 170mm mags without having to buy a bunch of $50 extensions. Every time I think I might shoot Open, I eventually have to come to grips with the fact that I can't afford it. :angry2:

    How about a 22 rounder and a +2? Is that longer than 170mm? Of course, now that I do the math, a 15 and a +8 Taylor is only 23 rounds so the loss of one round is probably not that big a deal if I just wanted to run 22 rounders. I suppose the addition of a weighted baseplate to a 22 rounder is probably not that bad an option.

    Plus that will stop the all-to-frequent occurrence of the smashing of my pinky between the mag extensions and my magwell. :surprise:

  14. So I noticed that Glock has started releasing a new factory 22 round mag in .40. Has anyone tried using these mags with one of the various mag extensions? If so, are they reliable? How many rounds can you get into them? Are they the correct length to be in Open? (that last question is probably the most important)

  15. While I've loaded tens of thousands of rounds, I've never loaded on anything other than my Dillon 550. I know that it's common practice to fully and deeply seat Federal primers for use with light trigger revolvers. My question is can this be done on a 550 through normal practice? Or do I have to get a hand primer?

  16. I had a discussion with my sons Pediatrician about my reloading and possible exposure to lead. He asked if I let him suck and chew on raw lead bullets. When I answered in the negative he said not to worry about it then.

    Hmmm... this thread has me all freaked out now. We are expecting our first child in February. While I'm not sloppy with lead, I have done things like cleaning pistols or filling ammo boxes in the house. I'm wondering if I should lay off the shooting / reloading for a while?

  17. Craig,

    My plan is to run 5 stages. The first 4 will be two-at-a-time side-by-side and then a larger 'field course' using the entire indoor area. If the weather in nice, I might set the field course up outdoors with will give us more options. I'm expect about 100 rounds total. Maybe a few more or a few less.

    If shooters have other ideas, I'd be happy to hear them. I don't have much experience running matches, but the only way to get more matches is to make them happen.

    Eric

    Unfortunately, I'll be out of the area on that day... However, I'll definitely try to make the one in Feb.

    Steve

  18. Well, When I ordered the "Trigger Job" DVD I also ordered a Miculek spring kit which I thought would reduce the trigger pull, and also an EDM fibre optic front site. But when I read the installation instructions it says you also have to grind down the strain relief screw. I wonder if the spring kit is even necessary if I just shortened the screw. I think from many posts I've read here the mainspring and rebound spring work as a team and need to be "compatible" in some sort of way. I guess it's time to watch the video to see what kind of stone and files I need to order now. You are correct about the gunsmith. I will go and watch him install the front site for me since I can't do the drilling, but I think I'll watch the video and see if I can't do the stoning stuff my self.

    Couple of things. First, there is very little to replacing a pinned front sight as long as you have a very small punch, very small drill bit, and a very steady hand. ;)

    Secondly, you can't lower the pull weight too much by simply shortening the strain screw. You need a bend in the mainspring because when you take too much tension off the spring, it's going mess with the angle and make it hard for it to bend (it'll actually try to squish it longitudinally instead) -- it's easier to visualize than explain. Jerry's mainspring has a bend in it... you can bend your factory spring if you want, but you kinda have to know what you're doing. Jerry's rebound slide spring (trigger return spring) is also lighter than factory and, according to him, is matched to the mainspring when set at about 7 lbs.

    Third, there are definite differences between pre-lock, non-MIM guns and post-lock MIM guns that will affect what you see when you take them apart and try to stone some parts. The two main things that I notice are that (1) the cylinder stop and trigger mate up on a little raised ridge instead of the full length of the edge, and (2) the hand spring fits into the trigger a little differently and can be a real pain if you don't know how they fit. ;)

    Good luck

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