Endoz

I stand when reloading, use force to seat primers, the two step stroke Benos talks about. I'm going to bet it has to do with brass I'm picking up from the range or could it be the fact i'm using a striker fired gun (G34) and the firing pin spring doesn't have enough force to light slightly high (as to be unnoticeable) primers? . I just picked up a SA Range officer in 9mm so i'll try same ammo and see what happens.

I've been reloading on my Dillon XL650 (which i love btw) for almost a year now, many thousands of rounds but am still having issues getting primers to seat on some rounds. About 4 out of 400 on last batch were obviously not in, but during testing, one in 20 or so fails to go bang. Not good for using during a match. I've worked with Dillon over the phone to try and resolve this issue, making sure plate is tight enough but not too tight, etc. Primer pockets ARE NOT reamed, to me thats more time than I want to spend, does anyone else have issues with 650 not seating primers? My machine is mounted on a strongmount, bolted to a 2" thick butcher block table that is stiff as hell. Im applying adequate force to the lever to drive them home in my mind, can't imagine using more force and having the machine hold up. Ive switched to now practicing with reloads and buying ammo to shoot matches as I lose too much time cycling out bad rounds, but that goes against the whole point of reloading to me. What am i missing? thanks Endoz

I may drop down to 3.6 - 3.7gr titegroup and recheck PF so the rounds don't have as much recoil. I liked them better at 1.150 OAL. But i'm nitpicking.

Well, bought a chrono and these are the results at 33F outside temp; 124gr Rainer Plated RN 3.8 gr Titegroup OAL - 1.150" Avg FPS - 1027 for PF of 127 ( so made minor after all ) Switched to 1.135 OAL w/ same powder and bullet/ Avg FPS - 1039 for PF of 128 Then loaded samples of coated bullets @ 1.135 OAL to compare to Rainer plated. Blue Bullet 125gr RN - Avg FPS - 1070 for PF of 133 Bajou 124 gr RN - Avg FPS - 1076 for PF of 133 Ibijiheads 125gr RN - Avg FPS - 1073 for PF of 134 These coated rounds at 1.135" had more snap to them, and seemed more accurate. Going to start loading coated from here on out.

Thanks all, great info! Endoz

10-4 thanks. Chrono next.

Ok so i've been easing into the reloading thing, i'm at 4K rounds now on an XL650, really satisfying, and am interested in shooting my first USPSA match weather permitting (its sub freezing here). So far this has been my load which has cycled my G34 well, and is accurate enough. It just doesn't make minor. 124gr Rainer Plated RN ( switching to coated from now on ) 3.8 gr Titegroup OAL - 1.150" I haven't got a chronograph yet so don't know my velocity but according to the Hogdon calculator i should be at approx. 957 fps which equates to a PF of 118 for USPSA. So the question is whats the best or safest way to make power floor with room to spare in minor? By going lower OAL or more powder ( up to 4.1 max )? Yes i'm being cautious as I am new to this. Appreciate any insights, Endoz

You are right. The SA ships with a small wire clip that temporarily holds the spring in place while you install it onto the gun, then you drop the hammer and pull the pin out. The spring is never 'captured' like it is on most 1911's. This is because of a proprietary safety on the housing I just discovered that i didn't even know it had. You can turn a tiny pin( with a tiny two pronged key) that prevents spring from compressing and therefore prevents hammer from cocking. The hammer strut must be slightly shorter than most 1911's but since its my only one I have nothing to compare to. Appreciate all the help, i hope this is useful for other Springfield owners out there in the future.

Here's a pic

I didn't 'disassemble" the housing per se, when i took it off, the retainer pin fell out (which seems odd) and the spring, and the pieces at both end of it came out. Given the amnt of effort it took to get the whole assembly back together again, i can't imagine how the retainer pin "fell out". There's the pointed end cap on the bottom of the spring and the belled mouth cap at the top of the spring. I have a pin replacement set and the parts are identical to that kit. As for the leaf spring its on top of everything, the leftmost spring sitting on top of the left leg of sear and the middle leaf is on top of the disconnector.

Tore down my Springfield to clean it and when reassembling,(something i've never done before) i've found my hammer only has spring tension from the 3 o'clock position (fully cocked) to around 2 o'clock. When the trigger is pulled, it hits the firing pin then bounces back to 2 o'clock. Its almost like the hammer spur isn't long enough but i didn't change anything..so not sure how this can be the case. Again, when hammer is in 12 o'clock position there is no tension on hammer strut, you can wiggle it, it doesn't come in to tension with mainspring housing until 2 o'clock then has tension until full hammer back at 3. Mainspring seems to be working as it did before when i check it, its all the way at the top of the housing against the retainer pin. I must be missing something stupid. Any advice/insights appreciated and happy holidays. Endoz

Went to range today with no problems, measured OAL several times from rnds in magazines and all fine. Did Dot Torture drill at 7 yards and rounds were accurate. Did notice a fair amnt of powder residue on casings, using titegroup.

According to that calculator i'm at 0.376 - 0.377 or moderate to light crimp. Assuming rnds don't change OAL during firing i'm going to call that good. Thanks all Endoz Moderate Crimp__(.003) 0.376

Very helpful calculator thanks!

never thought of using math, thanks! I'll test some more to see if their changing during firing.

Newbie here, just got into reloading, loaded 124grn Rainier plated round noses w/ 3.8gr titegroup. I'm at 1.155 OAL. w/ little to no crimp marks on bullet when i pull them to look. My question is, If i grab a cartridge (without powder) and take pliers to the bullet, i can pry it back and forth and it will come out without too much trouble. I CANNOT twist them. Likewise, when I use a kinetic bullet puller, it only takes 2-3 whacks to drop the bullet out. Realizing this isn't very scientific, does it seem like i have not enough crimp on bullets? If I put anymore crimp on bullet it wants to leave a line where brass hits so i backed it off slightly. I using a progressive Dillon so used their manual/dvd as reference and referenced Lyman manual as well. I test fired around 30 and they were accurate and no problems. That said I didn't take calipers to rounds in magazine after i fired a few shots to see if they were changing OAL. Appreciate any insights, Endoz

Well, I took 30 rounds of my new reloads and shot 10 mags with only 3 rnds at a time on the slow fire target range to check accuracy and frankly to make sure they didn't blow up in my face. 3.8gr of titegroup w/ 124grn RN. Slide locked open every time. Accuracy was good as a bonus. I ditched the extended slide release when I got the 34. I do like that 33rnd spring cut down option, I may do that as well.

Hmmm...I don't think so. The reason i say that is after I shoot 9mm, i switch slides to a tactical advantage 22cal conversion on my G19 and shoot that as well and if i'm touching the slide at all it won't cycle. I'm guessing the weak ammo is the culprit but will double check my thumb position this weekend at range. Appreciate all the insights here, great resource. Endoz

124grn primarily and some 115 from a variety of manufacturers like Fiocchi, Blazer (brass), PMC etc.

Thanks Sarge...is it normal for factory loads to be weak? Now that i think about it, because i am just now getting into reloading, i've been shooting bulk cheaper ammo. Makes sense but not something i even considered, just assumed because it was factory it was good. Endoz

yes, factory mags. I found some info saying that the ammo i'm shooting may be short stroking the action causing it to not engage the mag follower. ? The brass is dirty, ie. lots of carbon on it after i shoot it, not sure if thats telling.

This is borderline embarrassing but i'm at my wits end. I've been shooting my G19 and G34 doing drills to get back into shooting and have had intermittent issues with slide lock not working on both. I remember this being an issue in the past with these guns, but not my other glocks. I mark my magazines and they are inconsistent. My thumb is over my support hand, not on the slide release, nor am I limp wristing the gun (am gripping tightly w/ little flip). Upon inspection, magazine followers seem fine, some are new. On my 19, i replaced the slide lock just to be sure and it still does it. Lever springs are under firing block pins on both guns, and they work occasionally. When i rack the slide on an empty mag it ALWAYS locks open, why not when shooting? I am shooting factory 124grn bullets. What am i missing? Thanks Endoz

Thanks all, I've only shot IDPA and Speed Steel it was a while ago with a G19. Picked up a G34 to start shooting USPSA Production. Also have a SA Range Officer that I love shooting, and may try in IDPA.

Joined this site two years ago and then promptly never posted again. Or competed in any matches. Life got in the way. Hoping to get after some competitions this winter, and meet some of you in person. Also, finally pulled the trigger on some reloading equipment so will be doing that as well. Endoz

Joined a gun club here in Sherwood Oregon last year and haven't looked back. 15 yrs ago I watched Keanu Reeves doing shoulder rolls in the rain while shooting his P226 on "Point Break" and the hook was set. Fast forward 15yrs and 50lbs and i'm living my dream. Last year shot an idpa, (sadly no diving through windows) some speed steel and looking to get into both those as well as Practical Rifle which my club offers, regularly this year. Weather has been brutal (its snowing now) so shooting a couple hundred rounds a week on my own to practice and keep the mojo going. Also looking into reloading, this forum seems like a great resource for newbies like myself to educate ourselves and lets us see just how deep the rabbit hole can go! Safe shooting, Endoz